What is the difference in those? Do I have to buy a special lugnut adaptor, or will the wrench already have all of them that I need?

I'm not much of a tool guy so I only have basic stuff... sorry if these are lame questions but I don't know :-(

Thanks :-)

-Nigel

 

I hate to tell you this but a 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches, though they are both read in ft/lbs, have different accuracy! a 3/8 is best used on small bolts, and 1/2 on large bolts, ie lugs. The most accurate wrenchs are the bar and ruler wrenchs, but the clicker wrenches are easier to use.

 

i made the reccomendation as simple as i could. i personally own both 3/8th and 1/2 in torque wrenches, and use them for differant things. for lug nuts that get torqued to 70 ft-lbs, it doesn't make that big a differance. 70 ft-lbs is right in the middle range of most torque wrenches, where they are the most accurate (usually +/- 2-5% or so). each wrench should come with documentation that mentions the deviation. if he had been asking for a detailed reccomendation for sensative settings, i would have answered differantly. for most people though, a clicker type wrench in whichever drive size they use most is plenty accurate for most work (excluding light torque applications like banjo bolts etc.)

 

Well, well.. I read the owners manual and it tells a different rotation than the little pamphlet provided by the tire manufacturer, included in the owners manual pouch.

Subaru said to use their method. But I went with the tire manufacturer, RE92s

I went RF to LR
LF to RR
RR to RF
LR to LF

I did this every 5,000 miles and I just put on new tires this weekend and the old ones have 40,000 miles and still had some life left. But due to a snow storm I put on the new ones.

 

SNOW STORM ? I didn't get jack! Lucky son of a gun you.

 

Is it safe to assume that I should losen all of the lugnuts on the wheels then jack it up so then I can take all the wheels of and then move them around to the proper spot, then hand tighten them and lower the car and torque them down, just incase so that car doesn't come flying down if I am trying to losen the lugnuts while the car is in the air?

Thanks :-)

-Nigel

 

yup, loosen and then get it into the air.

 

Welp,

Just wanted to thank all you guys that helped me out :-)

Took me two hours to change all four tires, and it happend to rain :-( I was drentched when it was all said and done but it wan't too bad, I just hate jacking the car up for fear that it is going to come down on me...

Now since they are on nice and tight, I rode around for about 2-3 miles, came back and retighten them down, will they become loose again? Or will I hear a rattling in a couple days...?


Thanks :-)

-Nigel

 

I think for non-directional tires, this is the best way to rotate on an AWD car.

The main reason being every tire will get some tread time in every wheel position as well as milage in both directions. This should provide the best wear pattern.

Go opposite corners for the front tires, and straight up with the rears...

 

Rotating tires is a pain, but smart people will do it or have it done. I have two stands and two rolling floor jacks and then rotate the best tire (wherever it may be) to the front left and the second best to the front right. Mine are asymmetric - if they were directional it would be front to rear. One thing to remember when using stands, you can't use bottle jacks (non-rolling) because the side of the car on stands can fall over if the jack isn't able to roll outward as the low side is jacked up.

 

Just an FYI on jacking points these are the ones I use:

Jacking points link

That is for the Forester but I just installed some SS brake lines on a local guy's WRX and they are the same.

Also rotation from the owners manual:



Myself I'd never ever put my wheels on w/ out using a torque wrench. I use the click type The torque is something like 62.7 but I use 70 myself.