Lavery

iTrader: (1)

I have 18.7.5 +42 offset w/ 225/40 rubber. I rolled the fenders and they still "rub" when i turn extremely sharp while driving or hit a bump at a wierd angle. They only rub on the back fenders. What is the next step. Should i flare them (how easy?)? or should i just live with it?

thanks
luke

redrex

iTrader: (9)

Do you already have negative camber in the rear? If not, try putting -1.0 camber in the rear using aftermarket camber bolts (Whiteline for around $55). That's what I did to get rid of the rubbing on my REX that was lowered.

-Soren

Lavery

iTrader: (1)

No i haven't done that. I was under the impression that running negative camber was hard on suspension parts and reduces their life. How long have you been running it and how has it worked out. Another thing I've considered is a rear sway bar which micht ease body roll and stiffen it so that the tire is not able to touch the fender. ???

luke

VRWRX

I don't know that running negative camber will stress out the suspension, but it will wear your tires faster.

redrex

iTrader: (9)

Lavery- Running -1.0 camber in the rear will cause the inner part of your tire to wear faster than the outside. However, I've been running that set up for about 4 months now (7K miles) and my tires are in pretty good shape. Just make sure and rotate the tires every 3K miles (every oil change). To help the handling aspect of your car, also put in -1.0 camber in the front to offset the effects of the negative camber in the rear (the WRX comes w/ stock adjustable camber bolts up front).

As for installing a stiffer sway bar, it won't help. I currnetly have a Whitleine rear swaybar, Whiteline Endlinks and the Whiteline Rear Diff. Locking Bolts on my car. They help with the handling aspect, but not the rubbing.

If you're wondering what the Rear Diff. Locking bolts are for, they are suppose to lock the floating rear suspension assembly in place so the rear tires will not wobble side to side during hard cornering. It helped minimize the rubbing, but does not prevent body lean that ultimately leads to your rubbing issue. Hope this helps.

-Soren

Lavery

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for your help. I'm gonna call a body shop and if that doesn't work out, then i'll go for the neg camber.

luke

Lavery

iTrader: (1)

Found a new option the other day, something called "bump stops." They are urethane things that go on the shocks. Basically they keep the shock from traveling its normal distance up. Obviously, this will cause.....oversteer (according to my logic)...but i think thats what i'm gonna try. Has anyone used these/heard of these? Where can i get these?

Thanks
Luke

MO REX

iTrader: (2)

With those urethane stops wouldnt you have to dissasemble the strut? If thats the case it seems like it would be more expensive than buying camber bolts and adding - camber. I dont know if it is different on your 98 rs but I have a 02 rex with 17. 7.5 rims (48 mm offset) with 225/45 17s (1.2 drop in rear, 1.4 in front) and I was @ -2 in the rear. I have since purchased camber bolts and went to -1 rear and -1.5 in front with no rubbing issues. From what Ive read you should have more - camber in front to minimise understeer. As for uneven tire wear Ive been told that toe eats tires not camber (within reason).

Lavery

iTrader: (1)

Yea i'm not sure about disassembling the strut, but certainly it would have to be taken off the car. Thats the type of thing i was hoping to have answered. I would go with the neg. camber, but i don't have enough cash right now to buy anything like that.

luke

MO REX

iTrader: (2)

Camber bolts are pretty cheap and it isnt that hard for a shop to adjust the camber. All they do is turn the eccentric bolt untill its where you want it and tighten them up (the front comes with them stock). I got a bolt kit for around $70 from whiteline. Im pretty sure they would have to disasemble strut from springs to install the stops your talking about and that would cost even more in labor (they have to remove and reinstall the bolts Im talking about to do that). Check them out @http://www.whiteline.com.au/docs/bul...074_KCA412.pdf remenber these prices are in Austrailian dollars. There is a conversion on 1 of their pages. I got them shipped for around $70 in less than a week. You need Adobe acrobat reader to open this page. Im not saying I know this will work but it makes sence and Redrex has given me good info in the past.

Good luck.

MO REX

iTrader: (2)

Another thing to think about is your offset. If your car is the same as a WRX your offset should be from 48-52, Im not saying this is your problem but the wrong offset isnt good. Here is info on offset https://www.i-club.com/forums/showth...threadid=16330 I dont know what offset is on a 98 RS.

Lavery

iTrader: (1)

Yea, the offset is off. My offset is supposed to be +53. My problem is that i combined oversized tires, 225 instead of 215, with the lower offset.

luke

MO REX

iTrader: (2)

If 53 is the offset for the stock wheels (Im assumeing are 6.5) Im guessing it would be 46ish for 7.5 rims and I wonder how much negative camber you would need to make them clear. Ban suvs has an 01 RS (I think) maybee he could give you some better advise.