wrx understeer
#16
Don't forget that a good alignment can do wonders helping that turn in. I have a Perrin rear sway bar and kartboy endlinks and with the bar set to full stiff the car rotates on command. Of course this good for auotcross sessions, but can be alittle twitchy during normal driving.
-xom
-xom
#17
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Originally posted by xom
Don't forget that a good alignment can do wonders helping that turn in. I have a Perrin rear sway bar and kartboy endlinks and with the bar set to full stiff the car rotates on command. Of course this good for auotcross sessions, but can be alittle twitchy during normal driving.
-xom
Don't forget that a good alignment can do wonders helping that turn in. I have a Perrin rear sway bar and kartboy endlinks and with the bar set to full stiff the car rotates on command. Of course this good for auotcross sessions, but can be alittle twitchy during normal driving.
-xom
#19
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24/7 on my car.......believe it or not...some of the real serious autocrossers use....get ready for this....
1/2 INCH TOTAL toe out...1/4 INCH/side at the track:O :O
NO SHIP...
1/2 INCH TOTAL toe out...1/4 INCH/side at the track:O :O
NO SHIP...
#20
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do find that the 2mm of toe out in the rear caues your rear tires to wear faster/oddly? i'm thinking of changing the alignment on my car a bit -- right now i'm running 1 degree of camber in the front, and .5 in the rear, with zero toe all arround. i haven't found that the fronts wear too badly, and i'm thinking of going with 1.5 in front, and keeing the rear the same except for a bit of toe (as long as i can get that with the stock hardware, i can't get anymore rear camber as its set right now).
#21
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Origami posted by Scotty
24/7 on my car.......believe it or not...some of the real serious autocrossers use....get ready for this....
1/2 INCH TOTAL toe out...1/4 INCH/side at the track:O :O
NO SHIP...
24/7 on my car.......believe it or not...some of the real serious autocrossers use....get ready for this....
1/2 INCH TOTAL toe out...1/4 INCH/side at the track:O :O
NO SHIP...
--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
#22
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I grew up driving V-8, front engine, rear drive cars and I can handle a bit of oversteer...
I have my rear 20-24mm bar set to 23mm and a bit of toe out in the rear seems to be nice for me. I had the bar at full stiff, but it was too much so I backed off one hole on the passengers side and it's all good now. I wouldn't recomend this combination for someone not experienced with a 'lively' handling vehicle.
Care in the wet is a must, and this type of set up must not be used in any winter conditions unless you are adept at driving sideways....
I have my rear 20-24mm bar set to 23mm and a bit of toe out in the rear seems to be nice for me. I had the bar at full stiff, but it was too much so I backed off one hole on the passengers side and it's all good now. I wouldn't recomend this combination for someone not experienced with a 'lively' handling vehicle.
Care in the wet is a must, and this type of set up must not be used in any winter conditions unless you are adept at driving sideways....
#23
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Originally posted by dropkick_muppet
do find that the 2mm of toe out in the rear caues your rear tires to wear faster/oddly? i'm thinking of changing the alignment on my car a bit -- right now i'm running 1 degree of camber in the front, and .5 in the rear, with zero toe all arround. i haven't found that the fronts wear too badly, and i'm thinking of going with 1.5 in front, and keeing the rear the same except for a bit of toe (as long as i can get that with the stock hardware, i can't get anymore rear camber as its set right now).
do find that the 2mm of toe out in the rear caues your rear tires to wear faster/oddly? i'm thinking of changing the alignment on my car a bit -- right now i'm running 1 degree of camber in the front, and .5 in the rear, with zero toe all arround. i haven't found that the fronts wear too badly, and i'm thinking of going with 1.5 in front, and keeing the rear the same except for a bit of toe (as long as i can get that with the stock hardware, i can't get anymore rear camber as its set right now).
-Soren
P.S. Sorry for the thread hijack
#24
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Originally posted by Wingless Wonder
I think I'd better get some track and autocross time before I get even a 1/4 inch of rear toe-out. I had to back off on my rear sway bar setting because the rear would get too loose under braking in corners for my driving ability. That's good to know that toe-out can work on the street, thanks.
--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
I think I'd better get some track and autocross time before I get even a 1/4 inch of rear toe-out. I had to back off on my rear sway bar setting because the rear would get too loose under braking in corners for my driving ability. That's good to know that toe-out can work on the street, thanks.
--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
#25
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Originally posted by redrex
Are you using camber plates up front (and which brand)? I tried getting my car alingned w/ some negative camber up front using the stock bolts, the alignment place said -0.4 was the most they could get.
Are you using camber plates up front (and which brand)? I tried getting my car alingned w/ some negative camber up front using the stock bolts, the alignment place said -0.4 was the most they could get.
#26
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I have the Noltec camber/caster front tops, they make 'street' and 'race' versions, and I have the 'street' ones. The 'street' ones have the bearing in hard plastic in the mount and the race ones are metal on metal...I have heard they are pretty harsh
I noticed only a slight increase in NVH, which surprised me. I greased the bearings well on installation and they have been silent since I installed them.
They made a HUGE difference in overall handling with the extra caster and camber which I run maxed(and use the bolts to zero cross camber...caster is real close )
I noticed only a slight increase in NVH, which surprised me. I greased the bearings well on installation and they have been silent since I installed them.
They made a HUGE difference in overall handling with the extra caster and camber which I run maxed(and use the bolts to zero cross camber...caster is real close )
Last edited by Uncle Scotty; 12-21-2003 at 12:35 AM.
#28
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Originally posted by ubercaff
Roy, if you want to come for a little drive with me one night while I am following Ya in the miata, I'll show you how the WRX handles.
Roy, if you want to come for a little drive with me one night while I am following Ya in the miata, I'll show you how the WRX handles.
#29
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Are you using camber plates up front (and which brand)? I tried getting my car alingned w/ some negative camber up front using the stock bolts, the alignment place said -0.4 was the most they could get.
i'm running STi group-n strut tops, and the car is lowered just a hair. i was able to get -1 without changing out the camber bolts. the rear was limited to -.5 though. in the near future, i'm hoping to get a bit more camber in the rear through adjustable rear lateral links, and i think i still have some room up front for more camber -- my last alignment was a bit conservative due to concerns about tire wear.