MonkeyAB

iTrader: (1)

I just bought a set of JDM STi v8 suspension bits for my WRX. The shipment arrived on Tuesday. I started the installation then. I got through 3 of the 4 with out too much trouble. The 19mm bolts were on there good but I was able to get them off with an 18" breaker bar.

The RF, LF and LR are done. I get to the right rear and the bottom bolts are on there much tighter than the rest of the wheels. I was able to get the top one off after lots of cursing, PB Blaster and WD40. But the bottom one is just stuck. So I've got 7 out of the 8 bolts and this last one is killing me.

I've tried everything. I even rigged it with a hydraulic jack pushing the breaker bar (see pics). Nothing is happening.

So my question is does anyone have any tricks for breaking bolts that I might not know about? And if I have to take it to a shop that is about 5 miles away should I change the other rear back to stock or would it be ok to drive it (slowly and carefully) for that distance with mismatched springs and struts?

miked

From your photos it appears you are turning the bolt and not the nut. If the bolt is corroded and stuck you will have to remove the nut first and then deal with driving out the bolt.
Good luck and don't give up.

MonkeyAB

iTrader: (1)

I am able to turn the whole thing in place, nut and bolt. So I know that's not it.

MonkeyAB

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to take it to a shop tomorrow. I got nowhere on this thing tonight.

I've got part numbers on standby...

Chevelle

If you have no concern with potentially damaging the stock strut being removed from the car you can get a blow torch and heat the nut. This will cause the nut to expand hopefully enough for you to then break it loose. A hand torch from the hardware store would be adequate. I know you stated you are going to take it to a shop but this may be less expensive or you may want this for future reference. Just be careful to concentrate the heat to the nut. Obviously as a disclaimer I should also state to be careful of getting near the gas tank or any other flammable liquids. If you ever need to break a nut loose in a tight area you can also use a scrap piece of metal for a heat shield, preferably steel or iron. Good luck with getting your suspension installed.

MonkeyAB

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, that's the only thing I haven't tried. I'm a little nervous since there are a few items in that area that are heat sensitive. Like the gas tank, brake lines and rubber boot on axle. I'm about to go put everything back together and limp it over to a shop.

ScoobyBoy

iTrader: (4)

yeesh. ive had this exact problem with my midpipe bolt. i ended up cutting the damn thing off. and buying new bolts for it.

gluck on it. keep us updated.

MonkeyAB

iTrader: (1)

well I just payed $78 to have a shop do it. I think I should have just bought an air compressor... Oh well. Atleast it's done now. I've got to go back later and get it aligned.

Chevelle

Well I just reviewed the factory manual because I’m installing my new coilovers this weekend and apparently your bolt felt like it was seized for good reason. The factory torque spec for the lower strut bolts is 162 ft lbs. for the rear (this is probably not news for a lot of you). Anyway, I’m glad you were able to get the job complete.

sobalow

I know it's a little late now, but did you try using a cheater bar? The driver's side rear lower bolt is the hardest because of the torque specs and you have to pull up to break it as opposed to putting your weight down on it. I slid my friend's jack handle off of his aluminum jack over the breaker bar and pulled like there was no tomorrow. Got a couple of sickening snap and pop sounds, but the bolt gave after a couple of quick jerks.

MonkeyAB

iTrader: (1)

This thing pissed me off so much because I had done 7 of the 8 without too much trouble. Then the last one I got to was impossible. I guess I just needed impact. I should have put the $78 into an air compressor, yeesh.

Personally I think I can get more torque pulling up rather than pushing down. I just use my legs.

Island Style

iTrader: (66)

I just had the same dang problem...

I changed out the front struts (TEIN FLEX replaced stock STI)with no problem (there is plenty of room for leverage there....) but then I got to the rears...the higher of two lower bolts came off easily...then I got to the same one you are talking about...I couldn't budge it...there is absolutely no room for any sort of leverage or grip...

My friend Mr. Sti came to my rescue...prior to this I was getting very angry...Basically, he ended up squirting some oil around the bolt head side not the nut side...holding the nut with a 19mm wrench, he took an air powered impact wrench on the bolt-side...wala! He did the same for the drivers rear as well...

Seems to me the only way to do it...I almost did what you did and take it into a shop...need an air compressor and air-tools....

ScoobyBoy

iTrader: (4)

looks like we all had the same problem with the same damn bolt. i broke 2 socket wrenches, and a socket adaptor before that sucker came loose. my ears were still ringing for a good minute after it popped.
i even had a 5 foot breaker bar too. that bolt sucked.

MonkeyAB

iTrader: (1)

I guess I should be proud of myself for getting the driver's side with an 18" breaker bar. I'm putting an air compressor on my christmas list.

Kay95

have friend help you
one on each side with cheaper bars and pull like there is no tommorrow