spongy feeling brakes
09-04-2007 | 11:09 AM
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12
From: Redondo Beach
Car Info: 2002 WRX
spongy feeling brakes
Guys-
Did my brakes a couple weeks back and replaced the rotors, pads and brake fluid on my 02 WRX (Brembo rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads). I did each side one at a time, opened the bleeder valve, stepped on the brake and then closed the valve. I put in the ATE Super blue as it worked well in my Mercedes. Anyhow, after I finished with all 4, the brakes were weak when I first started driving around..... normal. But then after a week, they felt kinda spongy... which usually tells me air in the lines. I was sure to push out all the old fluid and air as I waited till solid blue came out.
Did I do something wrong? Suggestions?
Thanks,
Eric
Did my brakes a couple weeks back and replaced the rotors, pads and brake fluid on my 02 WRX (Brembo rotors, Hawk Ceramic pads). I did each side one at a time, opened the bleeder valve, stepped on the brake and then closed the valve. I put in the ATE Super blue as it worked well in my Mercedes. Anyhow, after I finished with all 4, the brakes were weak when I first started driving around..... normal. But then after a week, they felt kinda spongy... which usually tells me air in the lines. I was sure to push out all the old fluid and air as I waited till solid blue came out.
Did I do something wrong? Suggestions?
Thanks,
Eric
09-06-2007 | 11:14 PM
#2
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 228
From: bay area 415
Car Info: PSM bugeye
did you have someone else pumping the brake while you open and closed the bleeder? manually bleeding takes two people sounds like you did it yourself.which bleeder did you start from? usually start with the farthest from the master which would be right rear.then work your way to the closest=LF.
09-16-2007 | 11:01 PM
#4
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 12
From: Redondo Beach
Car Info: 2002 WRX
thanks, but read
Guys-
Thanks for the responses and I re-bled the brakes and here's what happened. I had another person push while I opened the bleeder valve. Again as before I saw no air bubbles, only blue fluid (ATE Super Blue). I followed the correct order and there was no change. How much does it matter where you start from as long as there is solid color fluid and no air bubbles??? I'm trying to think of a reason why it matters, but can not. As long as you depress the pedel, open the valve, then close and repeat till consistant color and no air, why would that line magically acquire air? If all the brake bleeder valves show no air after bleeding, the brakes should feel solid.
Anyhow, the brakes feel about the same and the more I drive it, they brake more solid. The factory brakes stopped better, maybe it has something to do with them being ceramic??? Maybe I should put on new brake lines to stiffen it up???? Don't know, any suggestions at this point? Anyone have any stopping problems with the Hawk Ceramic Pads????
Thanks,
Eric
Thanks for the responses and I re-bled the brakes and here's what happened. I had another person push while I opened the bleeder valve. Again as before I saw no air bubbles, only blue fluid (ATE Super Blue). I followed the correct order and there was no change. How much does it matter where you start from as long as there is solid color fluid and no air bubbles??? I'm trying to think of a reason why it matters, but can not. As long as you depress the pedel, open the valve, then close and repeat till consistant color and no air, why would that line magically acquire air? If all the brake bleeder valves show no air after bleeding, the brakes should feel solid.
Anyhow, the brakes feel about the same and the more I drive it, they brake more solid. The factory brakes stopped better, maybe it has something to do with them being ceramic??? Maybe I should put on new brake lines to stiffen it up???? Don't know, any suggestions at this point? Anyone have any stopping problems with the Hawk Ceramic Pads????
Thanks,
Eric
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