GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

OK, so I am posting this because I made the mistake of a lifetime, and unfortuneatly had to figure it out the hard way. I hope this thread saves atleast one poor soul from having to deal with the **** I am going through right now.

So, I basically destroyed the flare nut when removing the hardline while installing my BBK, no biggie, its the right side, so its a very short and accessable line to replace, and I am not about to go spend 120-150 bucks from subaru for a whole set of hardlines when all I need is one, so I will just make my own.

FFWD through the brake install, I get the new hardline made and it fits rather well if I do say so myself, so I decide that its time to tighten down the hardline and finish the brakes up. I begin to tighten the hardline on the ABS unit and all is well until all of a sudden the flare nut gets REALLY easy to turn.....UH OH....****! I JUST STRIPPED OUT THE THREADS ON THE ABS CONTROL MODULE! No biggie, nothing a Helicoil wont fix....oh wait.....as I look into the stripped out hole, I notice that the flare seal INSIDE the module is all ****ED up......what caused this, you may ask.....WELL, lemme tell you.....I used a Bubble flare on the new hardline.....Subaru OEM hardlines use a double flare! AAAAARRRRGH! GRRRRRR! So now I am REALLY PISSED OFF!

So NOW, instead of buying 120 dollar set of OEM hardlines.....I am paying nearly $900 for a new ABS Control Module!!!!!!!!! and all because I wasn't paying as close attention as I normally would........GRRRRR

So for those of you that need to replace a hardline, and dont wanna buy the whole set from Subaru, and are comfortable with making your own hardline.......here is a summary:

SUBARU OEM Hardlines (03 WRX) use a DOUBLE FLARE

DO NOT USE A BUBBLE FLARE, IT WILL DESTROY THE FLARE SEALS INSIDE THE ABS CONTROL MODULE!!!!!

and for those of you that dont already know:
ALWAYS, ALWAYS USE A FLARE NUT WRENCH TO LOOSEN/TIGHTEN THE FLARE NUTS ON THE HARDLINE!!!!

</rant>

-Ted

Wingless Wonder

iTrader: (7)

Good advice for anyone replacing the rubber lines with stainless braid covered lines on their vehicles.

I just replaced my front OEM lines with braided hose last Sunday. I'd heard that it can be a ***** to loosen those compression fittings so I made sure I had the 10mm flare nut wrench before I began the job. While the fitting isn't all that tight, it's pretty small so using an ordinary open end wrench is almost sure to round off the corners of the fitting.

I also used a pair of needle nose Vise-Grips to hold the OEM line stationary while I loosened the compression fitting. Don't rely on the flimsy bracket to hold the line still. You can use Vise-Grips on the old line because even if you destroy it you won't be using it again. The new line has a large hex (at least the StopTech does) so it can be held with either an open end or a flare nut wrench.

To my knowledge, fuel and brake hard lines are all double-flared. It forms a much better seal than a single-flare because the flared area is stronger.

When re-assembling brake parts, use a torque wrench whenever possible and set to factory specs to tighten fasteners. I did not have an offset adapter to use on the compression fitting but I've tightened these types of fittings before and it doesn't take much to get a leak-free connection. Check for leaks thoroughly before and after bleeding the brakes.

Is it possible to source an ABS control module from a wrecked Suby? I'm not sure if that would be an unsafe option or not, though.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

Kevin M

iTrader: (12)

Sucks to hear Ted. Like Alan mentioned, can you find a used module somewhere?

I actually managed to strip one of my flare nuts when I installed my Goodridge lines in spite of the fact that I HAD a 10mm line wrench handy. Then dcfc03 did the same thing when I helped him out. I think I'll just start recommending people just go straight to the needle-nose ViceGrips instead, since you'll only have to do the job once (or maybe twice if you part out).

Also, for general FYI while we're at it, the bleed screws only require about 8 pound-feet of torque; that's basically less than what you get just turning the wrench until it stops turning withotu even pressing on it.

Wingless Wonder

iTrader: (7)

From Valvoline.com:

"The double-flare hydraulic-line fitting is undoubtedly the most common type of connection used in automobile braking systems today, followed by the bubble flare found on many European vehicles. Compared to single-flare connections sometimes used on fuel or coolant lines, the double flare is more substantial structurally and can withstand far greater operating pressures. Where the do-it-yourself enthusiast is concerned, double-flaring tools are more expensive than single-flaring devices and can be difficult to use. Your braking system is not something to take lightly, however, so do whatever it takes to get the job done right."

I didn't know that single-flares were used on automotive fuel lines - hmm.

Pre-cut lengths of double-flared brake line tubing with pre-assembled compression fittings are available at some auto parts outfits but it can be tough finding one with the correct length and pre-made bends to match your factory lines.

--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush

GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

I could have tried to find a used ABS unit, however, in the Factory service manual, it explicitly states , "DO NOT drop, jar, or turn the ABS unit upside down! it contains very sensitive electronics and can easily be damaged by mishandling." This pretty much rules out taking one from a wrecked Suby, chances are one of those had happened in a crash bad enough to total a scoob.

Also, as wingless said, you can buy the straight hardlines w/pre installed flare nuts and double flares from many autoparts stores. I got mine from Kragen...I think it was like $6, And for those of you that need to replace this line (right front hardline, closest to ABS module), I used a 3/16" x 51" line with a METRIC flare nut, the line was a little long, but I was able to route the line a little differently than the stock line so I didnt have to shorten the line and re-flare it. I'd say a 47" or 48" line would have been just about perfect. I bent the line to follow the factory path as closely as possible, but I decided to run that particluar line above the rest of the lines, (from the factory, that line runs below the rest of the lines, making it a ***** to remove/re-install), however, I was able to utilize all of the factory mounting points, and the line fits awesome! (I have to say, I am proud at how well the new line fit, I bent it perfectly! damn I'm good....LMAO... j/k) I have pics of the new line installed, I will post up later.


-Ted

GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

Here are the pics of the new hardline I had to custom make and install, pics start at the ABS Module and follow the hardline back to the steel braided line.

-Ted

GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

and here's a couple of pics of the new Front brakes installed, and a pic of the new rear rotors installed....

-Ted

gdogg

iTrader: (38)

thank you very much for the heads up...







aloha from the summit of *-^-Mauna Kea-^-*

sloeshaun

f%$K...this just happend to me on the last wheel on fri (nut broke away from the tip of the line). Anyways from the left rear on 04 sti...i want to replace the entire hardline. Is this going to be just one section of hard line the entire lenght of the car? I'd prefer to have a dealer take care of this...any ideas on where I can buy a replacement so im not raped by the parts dept. Any idea how many hrs service is going to chg for this. On second thought any idea if I could trust this job to Auto HQ, LIC, gruppe S locally in the sf bay area?

Checkpoint

Tisk Tisk. You should have bought $20 in hardwear and bypassed your ABS all together. "You should have bought $20 in hardwear and bypassed your ABS"

You don't need it anyway.

Lowball

iTrader: (8)

Enjoy the stoptech bbk.

make sure you put it to good use!

GotBoost?

iTrader: (3)

I believe on the rear hardlines, there is a connection block (on the passenger side of the car infront of the rear axles, I think) where the 2 rear hardline sections connect to the two sections that run to the front of the car. So you should only need to replace the small section that runs from that connection block to the rear brakes....although the routing of the hardline may be a huge headache, IIRC it runs through the rear subframe, which MAY need to be removed to gain access to the line.

You can buy a straight hardline pre-flared from Kragen for like ~$5. Be prepared to completely drain your ENTIRE brake system. Make sure the new hardline is the same size as the stock one, and double check that it is DOUBLE FLARED, and has a METRIC thread on the nut. I highly suggest removing your old line first, then taking it to the auto store to compare. I would guess, that LIC or AHQ could handle the job.....but it may be pretty expensive....as its not that difficult of a job, but it is very time consuming and takes a ton of measuring and trial fitting to get the new line to fit properly. This is NOT a job that can be rushed or half assed.

-Ted

EDIT UPDATE: My custom Brakeline that I wrote this tread about, is still working flawlessly, with no leaks what so ever. Brakes feel good and solid, no issues at all.