So i just got a alignment and my guy said he couldn't get any negative camber from the eccentric bolt.
Was wondering if anyone knew anything about how the negative camber in front works with the OEM struts and if i need to get camber bolts bc i have new struts.
TIA

 

I could be wrong but when I got my car aligned, the factory bolts can only get about a degree of camber out of them. Anymore negative and you need to get yourself some camber bolts. This one degree varies from car to car by, in other words, some will have .8 degrees of camber whiles other will be able to get about 1.1 or something. It just varies. Different shops will tell you different things about aftermarket camber bolts and if they are worth it or not plus how much camber to run for DD. If your not doing any kind of auto x or track days or anything than -1 degree is plenty. However if you are into track days and auto x then maybe something like -1.5 or -2 would be fine. You will eat your tires quicker daily driving them but your weekend tires or auto x or track day tires will thank you. Trust me I've learned the hard way with camber adjustments etc.

Forgot to mention. I think the amount of camber you can get out of the factory bolts varies from sedan and wagon models of the wrx.

 

the thing was the guy said he couldnt get any camber out of the eccentric bolt (OEM camber bolt). I dont know how it works. Is it like any other camber bolt? Or does the OEM strut work with that eccentric bolt to give the front negative camber.

Current Specs
Front Camber
(R)-0.1
(L)0.0
Rear Camber
(R)-1.2
(L)-1.2

 

The cheapest way to get more neg. camber from the front is to add camber bolts to the lower holes. I always tell people in Reno to just grab a set of these from our local Summit Racing, but they ship too if you don't have one local. These are the same bolts you use in the rear to dial out some of the neg. camber after a drop (or add more in my case).

Even if you went with the GC front AGX's, you still have a camber penalty putting them on the wagon so in order to get much neg. camber, you need to replace the OEM straight bolts in the bottom holes with the aftermarket camber bolts (or get camber plates).

Some people will say that it's dangerous to replace the stock bolts with the thinner aftermarket camber bolts because they can't take as much torque and could slip. If they did slip, the only issue is that your alignment would be off. It's not really a safety issue, but that would suck so here's the trick. Make sure the alignment guy maxes the aftermarket bolts for max neg. camber (or positive if that's too much) and then use the top OEM camber bolts to fine tune. The thought here is that the aftermarkets are much less likely to slip if they're maxed out because lateral loads won't "try" to push on the cams of the bolt and "encourage" them to slip.

IIRC, OEM camber bolt specs are 120 ft lb and the aftermarket ones (since they're thinner) can only take about 85 ft lb.

I've had at least 5 alignments over the last 5 years (I autocross...) and I've never had an issue with this setup. I can get between -1 and -3 of neg. camber but I stick with -2.2 in the front, year round, zero toe.

 

Toe is way more of a concern than camber when it comes to tire wear, but neg. camber coupled with toe out will murder the inside shoulders. Something like -1.5 is totally safe as long as your toe is zero. Remember, not all alignment machines are created equally. If you do get inside shoulder wear with less than -2 camber, you were running some toe out IMO. Still, play it safe and stick with -1.5. That should be a good match for your rear -1.2 since you have a wagon.

Also, sedans and wagons have the same ability to get neg. camber until you put sedan struts (like the AGX's) on a wagon. If you put wagon stuts on a sedan, you get a neg. camber bonus!

 

Ahh, now i understand why i cant get negative camber. Dang it now i got to buy camber bolts install those and pay for a new alignment. Sigh.

Thanks for the help guys

 

You should only have to pay for half an alignment...or if the shop is really cool, they shouldn't charge you at all, but I doubt they're that cool.

In case it's a long drive from your garage to the alignment shop, you should be able to install the camber bolts so that they neither add or take (much) camber away. Just install them so the cam on the bolt points directly up or down. Adjusting camber affects toe so that's really why you want to keep the camber where it's at until it's on the rack.

 

what springs are u on im curious cuz u have the same shocks as me and i have mad negative camber,

 

You have a sedan right? That would explain the difference.

 

Im running prodrive blues (02-03). Yeah, you have a sedan, i have camber loss due to sedan struts on wagon, =(

 

when u ordewred them they asked if it was for a wagon or a sedan so i guess theres a difference

 

AGX's don't come in wagon fitment. However, many vendors will recommend the GC fronts for wagons because there is less of a camber penalty. But I really don't think it helps all that much...maybe a touch.

BTW, I went from AGX's (with GC fronts) to OEM wagon strut housings with Koni inserts (same as stock as far as camber's concerned). The same alignment specs were still easily attainable with the aftermarket camber bolts in the lower holes set to max neg. camber...

 

I have GC fronts. still only got 0.0 on R and L. At least im not positive. Just need to find some camber bolts.

 

Oakos has 'em if you don't have a Summit local.