koni insert install notes
09-25-2003 | 01:03 AM
#1
koni insert install notes
Cross post from clubwrx.net. These are amendments to the factory instructions AND internet pictorials.
Did mine yesterday with my pop at his very well outfitted shop.
This really is straightforward. To make it easy as possible, GET A PIPE CUTTER. Hacksawing through the strut housing takes 20X more effort than simply circling it with a pipecutter. The front struts will allow the pipecutter to go all the way around, and all you have to do is dremel the burr/lip on the inside of the strut when you're finished. The bottom spring perch on the rear struts won't allow you to circle the pipe cutter all the way around, but it will let you get 85% around. Just back and forth it, then some brief hacksawing will see it through.
When you drill the initial 3mm hole in the bottom of the struts to let some of the fluid out, don't sit there and let it just drain out. That takes too long. Grab the strut rod and pump the crap out of it and the fluid flows out big time. Do it until all you get is spray out of the hole.
Don't freak out about finding metric drill bits, as long as you have a Dremel. Just get the original 3mm hole as close as possible. We used a 1/2" bit for the 14mm enlargement, which actually translates to 12.7mm. We dremeled the rest of the way, which takes all of 45 seconds per strut. Drilling lube/oil is you friend here, be SURE to have some on hand.
Through trial and error, by far the best method of inserting the Koni into the stock strut is to tap it halfway (using the piece of wood and hammer method), then use the bolt (without the washers) to cinch it in all the way. By simply tapping it in all the way with the hammer and wood, you run the risk of misalignment of strut hole and insert threads. This happened to us, and we had to back the first insert out 1/2 inch so as to align it correctly. Just get it close, thread in the bolt (be sure to have several turns of thread), and cinch it down that way.
We didn't have a vice that would clamp tight enough to torque the strut bolt to the required 55lb/ft., so that will have to happen at the suspension shop. I will also take another poster's advice and use (red) loctite on the bottom bolts.
-Mirror
Did mine yesterday with my pop at his very well outfitted shop.
This really is straightforward. To make it easy as possible, GET A PIPE CUTTER. Hacksawing through the strut housing takes 20X more effort than simply circling it with a pipecutter. The front struts will allow the pipecutter to go all the way around, and all you have to do is dremel the burr/lip on the inside of the strut when you're finished. The bottom spring perch on the rear struts won't allow you to circle the pipe cutter all the way around, but it will let you get 85% around. Just back and forth it, then some brief hacksawing will see it through.
When you drill the initial 3mm hole in the bottom of the struts to let some of the fluid out, don't sit there and let it just drain out. That takes too long. Grab the strut rod and pump the crap out of it and the fluid flows out big time. Do it until all you get is spray out of the hole.
Don't freak out about finding metric drill bits, as long as you have a Dremel. Just get the original 3mm hole as close as possible. We used a 1/2" bit for the 14mm enlargement, which actually translates to 12.7mm. We dremeled the rest of the way, which takes all of 45 seconds per strut. Drilling lube/oil is you friend here, be SURE to have some on hand.
Through trial and error, by far the best method of inserting the Koni into the stock strut is to tap it halfway (using the piece of wood and hammer method), then use the bolt (without the washers) to cinch it in all the way. By simply tapping it in all the way with the hammer and wood, you run the risk of misalignment of strut hole and insert threads. This happened to us, and we had to back the first insert out 1/2 inch so as to align it correctly. Just get it close, thread in the bolt (be sure to have several turns of thread), and cinch it down that way.
We didn't have a vice that would clamp tight enough to torque the strut bolt to the required 55lb/ft., so that will have to happen at the suspension shop. I will also take another poster's advice and use (red) loctite on the bottom bolts.
-Mirror
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