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Just got Alignment need some answers

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Old 02-27-2003 | 08:36 AM
  #2  
joltdudeuc's Avatar
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From: Union City
Car Info: '99 RBP GM6
those seem like pretty good numbers

do you want more camber? The rear at -2 is pretty good already... might want to bring those back up a little though, depends on how you drive and if you like replaceing tires quicker.

-Gagan
Old 03-04-2003 | 01:35 AM
  #5  
secretaznboy's Avatar
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your numbers are pretty damn good.
what were you trying to get in the first place? i believe these specs are not within factory spec.

he did an excellent job with the toe.
the camber on the front is very agrssive...you will wear through those tires pretty quickly. they better be stock re92...or its is a waste.

the rear camber is a bit too negative...you want to zero out the camber in the rear...and mabye add .5 toe.

buy rear camber bolts and go back and tell him to try it again...and tell him to increase the toe on the rear. the toe will help the car rotate more....

the car should drive pretty good right now....with the exception of too much rear camber.

-alex
Old 03-04-2003 | 04:24 PM
  #7  
secretaznboy's Avatar
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hi
the tires well...if they are stock tires...then run with the alingment i told you.
-1 camber up front. no toe.
for the rear, 0 camber, .5 toe.

this will give you better performance and will wear the stock tires out a lil faster...but its okay i dont think you want to keep the stock tires around for TOOO long right/

the camber bolts can be bought from any whiteline dealership.
vividracing has them.

what are your other mods?

thanks
alex
Old 03-12-2003 | 08:06 PM
  #10  
big sky's Avatar
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Car Info: 04 GGA+
Your camber numbers are out of whack IMO. With pillow ball mounts (and your oe eccentric bolts- use both!) you should be able to dial in more neg camber upfront, I'd shoot for -2.0. I can get the numbers you have w/ just the oe bolts. Also there is no reason they can't get those to even out, a tenth difference (left/right) is the most I would tolerate on camber.

To the rear- too much neg camber, get that dialed back to approx oe specs ~ -1.3.

Toe looks fine- essentially zero front/rear. I feel this is a good compromise between slow stuff (autox) and speed. If your just concerned w/ autox then consider opening toe up a little front and rear.

Personally I'd take it back (be nice).

Big Sky
Old 03-12-2003 | 11:21 PM
  #11  
Kostamojen's Avatar
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From: Roseville, CA
Car Info: 1995 Subaru Impreza 1.8 L
You are going to get accessive understeer with that alignment. More negative camber = More rear end grip around corners = More understeer.

And -1 camber up front will NOT cause bad tire wear as long as you keep track of the tires and rotate periodically.
Old 03-13-2003 | 03:13 AM
  #12  
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Car Info: MY02 GD WAGON, MY87 AW11
I try not to run more than -1.5 on the rear. I prefer no toe, but that could be just me. -2 will definately push more. Are the pillow ball mounts camber adjustable?

-scu
Old 03-13-2003 | 07:00 AM
  #14  
big sky's Avatar
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If the pillow mounts aren't adjustable, then your stuck- you've (he) maxed out the oe eccentric bolts. But I'm pretty certain the Tein mounts are camber adjustable. He needs to utilize both the oe eccentric bolts and the camber plates up front to increase neg. camber
Old 03-13-2003 | 09:52 PM
  #15  
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Car Info: MY02 GD WAGON, MY87 AW11
I say leave the front, but you gotta get rid of some of that rear camber...
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