brake rotor removal
02-19-2003, 02:19 PM
#1
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brake rotor removal
I love this forum, a lot of knowledgable discussion.
My question is really basic, but I've not managed to unearth the answer with a search.
What is the best was to remove the rotors (front specifically). After removing the calipers, I found that I could not manually pull off the rotor. Should I thread in a bolt through the rotor hub to push it off (I seem to recall seeing a threaded hole between the lug nut studs)? If so, what would be the correct bolt size?
Are there any other different or better approaches?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Allan
My question is really basic, but I've not managed to unearth the answer with a search.
What is the best was to remove the rotors (front specifically). After removing the calipers, I found that I could not manually pull off the rotor. Should I thread in a bolt through the rotor hub to push it off (I seem to recall seeing a threaded hole between the lug nut studs)? If so, what would be the correct bolt size?
Are there any other different or better approaches?
Thanks in advance for any help!
Allan
good luck!
02-20-2003, 08:53 AM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
give it a thump with a dead blow hammer if you are just taking them off to turn them. if you are replacing them, do as posted above and whack away with a nice big hammer. just don't hit your wheels studs. or yes you could use the bolts holes, they will accept 12mm bolts.
02-21-2003, 04:22 AM
#6
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Sacramento CA
Posts: 10,029
Car Info: 02 Impreza WRX sedan
Originally posted by dbasteve
There are two 8mm threaded holes for jacking the rotor off the hub.
dbasteve's advice is correct. The factory service manual section on brake rotor removal says exactly that about the two 8mm threaded holes. Nowhere does it mention striking it with a hammer, although I guess this could be done if you don't care about the rotor if it hits the floor or lands on your foot.
The manual states that during installation, use the lug nuts to draw the rotor evenly onto the hub. Again, no mention of a hammer.
edit: note to dbasteve - I just received my DBA slotted replacement rotors for my MY02 (US) WRX. They look like nice pieces, Steve. I have to be patient and wait until I've gotten the rest of my brake and tire setup before I install the rotors.
--
^ww^
"…axles of evil…" - George W. Bush
There are two 8mm threaded holes for jacking the rotor off the hub.
dbasteve's advice is correct. The factory service manual section on brake rotor removal says exactly that about the two 8mm threaded holes. Nowhere does it mention striking it with a hammer, although I guess this could be done if you don't care about the rotor if it hits the floor or lands on your foot.
The manual states that during installation, use the lug nuts to draw the rotor evenly onto the hub. Again, no mention of a hammer.
edit: note to dbasteve - I just received my DBA slotted replacement rotors for my MY02 (US) WRX. They look like nice pieces, Steve. I have to be patient and wait until I've gotten the rest of my brake and tire setup before I install the rotors.
--
^ww^
"…axles of evil…" - George W. Bush
Last edited by Wingless Wonder; 02-21-2003 at 04:27 AM.
02-21-2003, 06:45 AM
#7
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striking with a hammer is the easiest/quickest way for semi-stuck rotors. for rotors thats are really stuck those bolt holes don't do anything, they will just strip out the bolt or the hole. and when i say 12mm bolts, any subaru bolt that takes a 12mm socket ( we have thousands laying around at the shop) will fit those holes. in most cases you don't either one, they just fall off. as far as putting the rotor on, after re-installing the caliper, putting the wheel on evenly and correctly will assure proper rotor alignment.
-PJ
-PJ
02-21-2003, 10:41 AM
#9
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those are a little trickier. if they don't just slide off by twisting and pulling straight out, you have to use the bolts. but if there is a lip of rust around the e-brake surface they tend to not want to come off. sometimes you end up pulling on the brake shoes, and sometimes they get pulled off with the rotor. most often they come out ok though. sometimes the pin (or nail as i call it, it has a nail like head on the back) will come out. its just a matter of putting it back on. but these e-brake systems take some figuring out, so if you have never done something like it before, don't try it yourself.
-PJ
-PJ
02-26-2003, 08:02 AM
#10
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Originally posted by X1_SRT
striking with a hammer is the easiest/quickest way for semi-stuck rotors. for rotors thats are really stuck those bolt holes don't do anything, they will just strip out the bolt or the hole. and when i say 12mm bolts, any subaru bolt that takes a 12mm socket ( we have thousands laying around at the shop) will fit those holes. in most cases you don't either one, they just fall off. as far as putting the rotor on, after re-installing the caliper, putting the wheel on evenly and correctly will assure proper rotor alignment.
-PJ
striking with a hammer is the easiest/quickest way for semi-stuck rotors. for rotors thats are really stuck those bolt holes don't do anything, they will just strip out the bolt or the hole. and when i say 12mm bolts, any subaru bolt that takes a 12mm socket ( we have thousands laying around at the shop) will fit those holes. in most cases you don't either one, they just fall off. as far as putting the rotor on, after re-installing the caliper, putting the wheel on evenly and correctly will assure proper rotor alignment.
-PJ
I just replaced my rotors after 36k miles and my where STUCK ON. I didn't have any bolts at first, so first we tried just yanking on them... almost pulled the car off the jackstands... then I tried the hammer method... which promptly did nothing... more pulling... finally gave up and found a ride to the nearest hardware store(about 30 miles away, I was working at a friends place in the middle of nowhere) bought some bolts, wasn't even difficult to pop them off w/ that. So, my advice is that the hammer won't do much if they're stuck on there, and I can't imagine stripping out a bolt or the rotor, so go w/ the bolts... how in the world did you strip those?
02-26-2003, 08:55 AM
#11
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believe me they can be stripped. i find it odd that you couldn't get em off w/ the hammer. you have to go around the rotor, hit it in different spots. usually this works the best. but if the bolts worked, then thats great. i've had probably 10 or so rotors strip out the bolts, and on my car (talon tsi) i actually stripped the holes in the rotor it self. what ever works though. glad you were able to get it done.
-PJ
-PJ
02-26-2003, 11:43 AM
#12
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Originally posted by X1_SRT
those are a little trickier. if they don't just slide off by twisting and pulling straight out, you have to use the bolts. but if there is a lip of rust around the e-brake surface they tend to not want to come off. sometimes you end up pulling on the brake shoes, and sometimes they get pulled off with the rotor. most often they come out ok though. sometimes the pin (or nail as i call it, it has a nail like head on the back) will come out. its just a matter of putting it back on. but these e-brake systems take some figuring out, so if you have never done something like it before, don't try it yourself.
-PJ
those are a little trickier. if they don't just slide off by twisting and pulling straight out, you have to use the bolts. but if there is a lip of rust around the e-brake surface they tend to not want to come off. sometimes you end up pulling on the brake shoes, and sometimes they get pulled off with the rotor. most often they come out ok though. sometimes the pin (or nail as i call it, it has a nail like head on the back) will come out. its just a matter of putting it back on. but these e-brake systems take some figuring out, so if you have never done something like it before, don't try it yourself.
-PJ
For clarity its not actually a buildup of rust that usually traps the parking brake shoes. Its them wearing a path into the drum itself and leaving the inner lip unworn.
There is an easy remedy to removing the rear discs btw. There is a (_____) shaped plug near the bottom of the backing plate that can be removed from the inside of the backing plate while the rear rotors are in place. When you remove the plug you will see a star washer attached to the brake shoe pre-tensioner bolt. You simply turn this with a flat head screwdriver and it pulls the shoes together such that the disc comes right off. I cant remeber whether you push the top or the bottom of the star washer right this sec, but when you spread them open more you wont be able to turn very far in that direction. You can kinda feel the tension being released when you turn it in the correct direction.
You use this same star washer to adjust the parking brake when you install new discs(you almost always have to pull in the shoes to get the new disc to go on.) To adjust the brake, compress the shoes fully(or enough to get the rotor on) with the rotor off, put on the discs, run the star washer(pre-tensioner) open until it wont open anymore(pressing the shoes on the inside of the drum) and then back off a couple of notches on the star washer.
Then you can reset the parking brake handle adjustment in the car for full engagement at 8 clicks. I've seen a number of people try to take a lot of slack out at the parking brake handle. It usually is not effective until you adjust the shoe pre-tensioner first.
Allegedly the parking brake is self-adjusting over time, but I have no patience nor have I had any luck myself with this process on my Subarus.
k.
02-27-2003, 10:50 AM
#13
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Originally posted by X1_SRT
believe me they can be stripped. i find it odd that you couldn't get em off w/ the hammer. you have to go around the rotor, hit it in different spots. usually this works the best. but if the bolts worked, then thats great. i've had probably 10 or so rotors strip out the bolts, and on my car (talon tsi) i actually stripped the holes in the rotor it self. what ever works though. glad you were able to get it done.
-PJ
believe me they can be stripped. i find it odd that you couldn't get em off w/ the hammer. you have to go around the rotor, hit it in different spots. usually this works the best. but if the bolts worked, then thats great. i've had probably 10 or so rotors strip out the bolts, and on my car (talon tsi) i actually stripped the holes in the rotor it self. what ever works though. glad you were able to get it done.
-PJ
but Yeah, i went around the disc w/ the hammer... tried smacking it from the back, from the front, on the edge... I actually got a little scared I wasn't going to get them off at all... but my favorite part was yanking on one when my friend yells "WOAH! STOP! LOOK AT THE JACK STAND!" ...which was starting to tip up on it's side.... scary...
