Battery relocation and weight distribution question
#16
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i put my battery on the passenger side of the trunk. i ran the positive wire from the front through the cabin following the door sill to the trunk. i'm using a moroso battery box to hold the battery. i can still carry a spare tire if i wanted to.
#17
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Originally posted by Steppin Razor
this is something i've been wanting to do for a while now.
scotty, why did you rule out the spare tire well as a location? is there no way to have a battery as well as a spare tire?
also, how much bigger is 0 gauge cable than 4 gauge diameter-wise?
scotty, where did you route the cables and do you get any noise in your stereo from the routing that you're using?
this is something i've been wanting to do for a while now.
scotty, why did you rule out the spare tire well as a location? is there no way to have a battery as well as a spare tire?
also, how much bigger is 0 gauge cable than 4 gauge diameter-wise?
scotty, where did you route the cables and do you get any noise in your stereo from the routing that you're using?
I don't know about the wire gauge size difference, other than 4ga. is sufficent for my install. More information on cable requirements can be found in abundance online.
The cables are routed under passengers side of the center console. behind the HVAC controls, and through the firewall grommet above the brake pedal attach area. Underhood, the stock cable ends are retained for possible temporary re-installation of a regular battery.
I have had no issues with the stereo systen, which is the base stock system. My Stromung 3" exhaust system sounds very nice, thank you
#19
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Trunk-mount batteries are an okay mod for handling purposes but consider also that copper cable isn't exactly lightweight. I used '0' gauge cable in my Camaro to transmit juice from a big trunk-mounted DieHard. Those cables were as heavy as a pair of quality jumper cables, so while the front/rear weight distribution was improved a bit, total weight of the car was increased (unless you go with a smaller, high-performance battery).
Avoid aluminum cable you might find for use in welding equipment. It doesn't conduct electricity as well as copper.
--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
Avoid aluminum cable you might find for use in welding equipment. It doesn't conduct electricity as well as copper.
--
0==WW==0
"…axles of evil…" - george w. bush
#20
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Originally posted by 03blauWRX
The thicker each individual one is, the better. This makes bending the cable much more difficult, but also lower the resistance. This will be extremely important because if you use the wrong type of cable, you will start draining your battery everytime you start it.
The thicker each individual one is, the better. This makes bending the cable much more difficult, but also lower the resistance. This will be extremely important because if you use the wrong type of cable, you will start draining your battery everytime you start it.
Anyone know the correct answer?
jason
#21
the correct answer is the one i posted.
stranding has nothing to do with current carrying capacity. it has everything to do with being moved around. thin strands suffer metal fatigue much slower than do thick ones. since a car is subject to lots of bumping around, you will not see solid conductor wires being used in a car. in the walls of your house, it's a different story.
at very high AC frequencies, a secondary effect called "skin effect" comes into play, due to the self-inductance of the wire. this causes the AC currents to be concentrated at the outside edges of the conductor, and as such will raise the effective impedance of the wire. this has absolutely no bearing whatsoever at DC (when i say "very high AC frequencies" i mean radio frequencies).
as far as the potential which the wires can safely carry, this is a function of insulation and nothing else. thicker insulation means higher voltage capacity.
the only measurement of a cable's DC current capacity is its gauge. the only other issue, when you're pushing that capacity, is whether or not the wire can dissipate the heat that inevitably gets generated whenever it carries current (ie. a wire in "free air" can withstand a greater current before melting than one buried in a wiring harness).
hth
ken
stranding has nothing to do with current carrying capacity. it has everything to do with being moved around. thin strands suffer metal fatigue much slower than do thick ones. since a car is subject to lots of bumping around, you will not see solid conductor wires being used in a car. in the walls of your house, it's a different story.
at very high AC frequencies, a secondary effect called "skin effect" comes into play, due to the self-inductance of the wire. this causes the AC currents to be concentrated at the outside edges of the conductor, and as such will raise the effective impedance of the wire. this has absolutely no bearing whatsoever at DC (when i say "very high AC frequencies" i mean radio frequencies).
as far as the potential which the wires can safely carry, this is a function of insulation and nothing else. thicker insulation means higher voltage capacity.
the only measurement of a cable's DC current capacity is its gauge. the only other issue, when you're pushing that capacity, is whether or not the wire can dissipate the heat that inevitably gets generated whenever it carries current (ie. a wire in "free air" can withstand a greater current before melting than one buried in a wiring harness).
hth
ken
#22
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So then why are automotive battery and audio cables all thin strand? By what you say it doesn't make sense ot use think strand for bumpy automotive applications. And if I udnerstand your comment about impedence, then thin strand has higher impedence which would cause all sorts of power issue, like battery drain, etc. I just doesn't make sense, by your reasoning, why any auto or car stereo manufacturer would use thin strand wire.
jason
jason
#25
Originally posted by Uncle Scotty
We were OT before with the battery....NOW we are REALLY getting WAY OT with the cable issue...
We were OT before with the battery....NOW we are REALLY getting WAY OT with the cable issue...
that's how i see it anyway.
ken
#26
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Originally posted by ride5000
if you need to use additional cables to relocate your battery, then the cable issue really isn't off the topic of battery placement.
that's how i see it anyway.
ken
if you need to use additional cables to relocate your battery, then the cable issue really isn't off the topic of battery placement.
that's how i see it anyway.
ken
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