air conditioning not engaging??
#1
air conditioning not engaging??
well anyway ive been having a problem with my airconditioning, i havent turned it on for around 5 months now, and today when it got kind of hot i pushed the AC button it lit up, but i didnt feel the engine strain..
like usually, when u push the AC button your revsbounce up or down, and you just feel it on or hear it..
but today nothing happened, the light jus lit up, and nothing..
i chcked all the fuses, in the cabin and in da engine bay..
is there a plug or something that may have unhooked or nething?
- danny
also what are the trouble shoot diagnostics in the subaru shop manual, for a not turning on aC unit
like usually, when u push the AC button your revsbounce up or down, and you just feel it on or hear it..
but today nothing happened, the light jus lit up, and nothing..
i chcked all the fuses, in the cabin and in da engine bay..
is there a plug or something that may have unhooked or nething?
- danny
also what are the trouble shoot diagnostics in the subaru shop manual, for a not turning on aC unit
#4
Warm up your car, turn on your a/c on and check you compressor to see if your a/c clutch is engaging. If it’s not then check for loose connections. But if it works then it could be low R134a (refrigerant), leak in the lines, bad evaporator, bad condenser (or a plastic bag/ crap covering it up from driving), basically anything. Is it blowing hot air? What is exactly happening?
#5
thanks for the check list. I think mine is going out. Sometime when I turn it on, it would take a while for it to 'kick-in'. I find that if I turn it on (full blast) and off would help bring it up faster... Any idea?
Originally Posted by shogunmy04
Warm up your car, turn on your a/c on and check you compressor to see if your a/c clutch is engaging. If it’s not then check for loose connections. But if it works then it could be low R134a (refrigerant), leak in the lines, bad evaporator, bad condenser (or a plastic bag/ crap covering it up from driving), basically anything. Is it blowing hot air? What is exactly happening?
#7
I just changed my AC compressor and found out that if the system is low on coolant there is a switch that will not let the compressor clutch engage.
get the system checked and make sure it's full. also have them check the system for leaks.
I had to replace the O rings where the lines connect to the compressor.
If your system is full of coolant make sure to check the A/C relay in the black fuse box under the hood.
Good luck.
get the system checked and make sure it's full. also have them check the system for leaks.
I had to replace the O rings where the lines connect to the compressor.
If your system is full of coolant make sure to check the A/C relay in the black fuse box under the hood.
Good luck.
#9
blower works on all levels and it varies on the time for the a/c to kick in....
Originally Posted by shogunmy04
Does your blower work on all levels? (Low, med, high) and how long does it take for your a/c clutch to engage once you push the a/c button?
#10
tried to recharge the system with the refrigerant, and had the car running, once i started pumping freon in it, boom, compressor started to start..
filled it up, with the UV refrigerant,where u flasha black light on it to see if there was a leak, left it on for 15 minutes, letting it run on full blast, looked at all the connections, found no leak, or maybe im just incompetent at looking for it... but i looked at all the piping for the ac unit, found no leaks or could i spot the uv liquid... the AC blew ice cold
next day tried to start the AC, the ac wouldnt turn on again, guess the refrigerant leaked..
sigh, i guess im gunna hafta take it to the dealer..
s- DAnny
filled it up, with the UV refrigerant,where u flasha black light on it to see if there was a leak, left it on for 15 minutes, letting it run on full blast, looked at all the connections, found no leak, or maybe im just incompetent at looking for it... but i looked at all the piping for the ac unit, found no leaks or could i spot the uv liquid... the AC blew ice cold
next day tried to start the AC, the ac wouldnt turn on again, guess the refrigerant leaked..
sigh, i guess im gunna hafta take it to the dealer..
s- DAnny
#11
---(((iBlueVirus)))---
Check you refrigerant levels. Take your car to the dealership if it’s out of warranty go to a mom and pop car shop that specializes in A/C they have the proper tools and meter device to measure how much r-134a you have in your system, they can also indicate if it’s low, contaminated, leaks or if there is water in your system. You don’t want to buy that refrigerant in a can, because it could be the wrong kind and will probably contaminate or damage you’re a/c system. It’s not unusual for R-134a refrigerant to dissipate after 3-5 years without any a/c service because the molecules are smaller and will leak out. The old stuff, R-12 (A/C refrigerant) in pre 1994 cars runs cold as ice and will not dissipate because the molecules are a lot larger and the a/c lines are different too. Recharging R-134a is not too costly compared to R-12 since R-12 is no longer manufactured. Take this to note too, manufactures don’t fully charge cars they only put minimal refrigerant to save cost. I checked my refrigerant levels last year and only had my car for a year at that time and it was almost a pound low of R-134a. I fully charged it and its stil ice cold.
Check you refrigerant levels. Take your car to the dealership if it’s out of warranty go to a mom and pop car shop that specializes in A/C they have the proper tools and meter device to measure how much r-134a you have in your system, they can also indicate if it’s low, contaminated, leaks or if there is water in your system. You don’t want to buy that refrigerant in a can, because it could be the wrong kind and will probably contaminate or damage you’re a/c system. It’s not unusual for R-134a refrigerant to dissipate after 3-5 years without any a/c service because the molecules are smaller and will leak out. The old stuff, R-12 (A/C refrigerant) in pre 1994 cars runs cold as ice and will not dissipate because the molecules are a lot larger and the a/c lines are different too. Recharging R-134a is not too costly compared to R-12 since R-12 is no longer manufactured. Take this to note too, manufactures don’t fully charge cars they only put minimal refrigerant to save cost. I checked my refrigerant levels last year and only had my car for a year at that time and it was almost a pound low of R-134a. I fully charged it and its stil ice cold.
Last edited by shogunmy04; 04-18-2006 at 04:00 PM.
#12
AC starts, then stops
So, When I first turn on my car, the AC works fine, after about 1 minute, it quits blowing cool air. Any thoughts? It's been doing this for about 2 weeks now.
Thanks,
Chadwich
Thanks,
Chadwich
#13
Originally Posted by chadwich
So, When I first turn on my car, the AC works fine, after about 1 minute, it quits blowing cool air. Any thoughts? It's been doing this for about 2 weeks now.
Thanks,
Chadwich
Thanks,
Chadwich
Take it to a shop and have them put gauges on it to check the charge level, if it's low there may be a leak.
#14
man, I have some bad news on mine... I took it in and refrigerant was a little low. So he fill it up for me. After that AC was extremely cold, which was great! However, the next day, AC would still take extremely long to come up so I took it in again. There is no leak and no need for refrigerant. He checked the electrical stuff for me and seems like I am not getting power to the pump. He advised me to take it to an AC specialist shop. Good thing he didn't charge me for the diagnostic.
I am going to get some basic diagnostic tools to checkout the eletrical stuff myself. Power seems to be good from the fuse box to the next connect. It's somewhere from that connector to the pump is dead. He drove power directly to the pump and the clutch would engauge immediately, but something about the high pressure is not right. It would suck if I have to buy a new pump... It's like $300-$400 or something...
I am going to get some basic diagnostic tools to checkout the eletrical stuff myself. Power seems to be good from the fuse box to the next connect. It's somewhere from that connector to the pump is dead. He drove power directly to the pump and the clutch would engauge immediately, but something about the high pressure is not right. It would suck if I have to buy a new pump... It's like $300-$400 or something...
#15
There are both low and high pressure cutouts in the compressor circuit, if one of those is tripping there may be a problem beyond the compressor itself and it may not be electrical in nature.
If you are not familiar with AC diagnostics and repair I'd recommend that you follow the advice to let an AC shop look at it.
If you are not familiar with AC diagnostics and repair I'd recommend that you follow the advice to let an AC shop look at it.