What causes "bogging", how to not bog?!
07-08-2003, 05:38 AM
#16
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: New York
Posts: 173
Car Info: 2002 WRX wagon
There is another way to start on an incline, but it is more difficult than using the e-brake. Heel and toe the gas/brake to give some gas as you engage the clutch and release the brakes. I like e-brake best. Side question: with the daylight running lights on, engaging the e-brake turns them off! This doesn't happen when headlights are are full. Is there any way to keep the daylights on when the e-brake is engaged?
07-08-2003, 02:00 PM
#17
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There's a reason they go off when you engage the e-brake. It is an assumption by the Mfg. that you will or have parked the car and there is no longer a reason for them to be on. The only way to avoid this would probably be to disengage or remove the switch in the e-brake assembly that controls it. Just don't ask me how to do this.
As far as hills, I've been driving a stick since the start of my driving experience, a whopping 22 years, and hills will eventually become second nature to you. It will take time and practice. Many of the ideas peep's posted here will work. I personally use the quick gas and go method, no e-brake. You might get some bog depending upon the size of the hill, but no harm done. Just practice and you'll get it.
Finn
As far as hills, I've been driving a stick since the start of my driving experience, a whopping 22 years, and hills will eventually become second nature to you. It will take time and practice. Many of the ideas peep's posted here will work. I personally use the quick gas and go method, no e-brake. You might get some bog depending upon the size of the hill, but no harm done. Just practice and you'll get it.
Finn
07-08-2003, 04:03 PM
#19
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Portland OR
Posts: 31
Basically what is happening is that the engine's RPMs are too low to allow for clutch slippage which is important for a smooth take-off. The clutch grabs too much essentially braking the engine which causes the RPMs to drop further which is the "bogging down". At this point the engine either gets more fuel which allows it to catch up and accellerate or it stalls and you get stink eye from other drivers.
07-08-2003, 10:12 PM
#22
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If the e-brake method doesn't suit you or as someone pointed out the lights will turn off then, try letting out the clutch while still in gear very slowly and you should be able to feel when it engages. Let it out just enough so when you take your foot off the brake the car will not role backwards and then you can just give it some gas and go. This may be a little bit more tough to master but, like always it just takes practice.
07-09-2003, 08:13 AM
#23
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So, you want a 'technical' explanation. Okay, how about this:
Bog is caused by the insufficient amount of torque that is being produced at the time that the clutch is engaged. Torque, as we all know, is that component of power that actually does the moving. If your engine is not producing sufficient torque at a specific RPM for the load about to be placed on it, it will bog down because it can't keep itself running, or like Portland Dave said, you're 'braking' the engine. It's all about torque. It takes more torque to start a car moving than it does to keep it moving. Have you ever tried pushing a car? It's difficult to get the car moving, you push and push, applying all the torque you're body can produce to the car and finally when you have exceeded the amount needed to move the car, by pushing harder, the car finally moves. Once it starts to move, the amount of 'power', in the form of troque, needed to keep the car moving, decreases significantly, allowing you to just push with relative ease. In theory and in practice, you could get your car rolling forward, on a flat surface, by using the clutch and the engine at idle. You would slip the clutch a bit, release it and let it slip again, repeating this process and slowly get the car moving to the point where you could allow the engine to idle the car along the ground.
The physics lesson for the day...
Finn
Bog is caused by the insufficient amount of torque that is being produced at the time that the clutch is engaged. Torque, as we all know, is that component of power that actually does the moving. If your engine is not producing sufficient torque at a specific RPM for the load about to be placed on it, it will bog down because it can't keep itself running, or like Portland Dave said, you're 'braking' the engine. It's all about torque. It takes more torque to start a car moving than it does to keep it moving. Have you ever tried pushing a car? It's difficult to get the car moving, you push and push, applying all the torque you're body can produce to the car and finally when you have exceeded the amount needed to move the car, by pushing harder, the car finally moves. Once it starts to move, the amount of 'power', in the form of troque, needed to keep the car moving, decreases significantly, allowing you to just push with relative ease. In theory and in practice, you could get your car rolling forward, on a flat surface, by using the clutch and the engine at idle. You would slip the clutch a bit, release it and let it slip again, repeating this process and slowly get the car moving to the point where you could allow the engine to idle the car along the ground.
The physics lesson for the day...
Finn
07-09-2003, 09:40 PM
#25
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Join Date: May 2003
Location: BFE, TN
Posts: 63
Car Info: 2002 Subaru WRX
I have found that the "less is more" approach to the accelorator pedal helps also. On other makes and models, the harder you press on the accelorator, the faster you go. When driving my wrx, I only use about a quarter of the gas pedal and notice a big difference in engine response. Also, a little bump on the accelorator also helps, as Christian stated earlier. Find a nice deserted parking lot with a fairly steep incline and see if this helps.
07-10-2003, 12:17 AM
#26
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Car Info: TXS tbe, perrin goodies, v7 sti struts...bla bla bla lots of stuff!
I am going to practice what everyone has just posted here this weekend on an abonded road that has a hill on it, pretty steap actually. I don't really have to much of a problem on hills EXCEPT when the guy behinds me says to himself "I think I am going to get a close as possible to Nigel's rear bumper" then I go into panic mode, saying to myself, oh great, I can't coast back, I can't stall, I have to take off easy, but don't burn the clutch out, your adding too much gas, let the clutch out, not enough, too much.... lol
All that goes through my head about 100 times, then I normal jerk or "bog" and stall... then I will try again, then I usually will get it, if not and I stall again, I wave the person behind me to pass me...
But you guys are right, just gotta practice, practice, practice... :-)
-Nigel
All that goes through my head about 100 times, then I normal jerk or "bog" and stall... then I will try again, then I usually will get it, if not and I stall again, I wave the person behind me to pass me...
But you guys are right, just gotta practice, practice, practice... :-)
-Nigel
07-10-2003, 08:18 AM
#27
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Location: Costa Mesa, CA
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Car Info: 2003 WRX Wagon
Just so you guys know, the e-brake method on hills is the method that we are taught in Europe. In fact, you will FAIL your driving test if you don't use it on a hill. It does no damage to the car and actually causes less strain on the clutch. It will also ensure, done correctly, that you do not slip back at all on the hill and endanger the car behind you.
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