anyone here ever had their rpm's drop while accelerating?
#1
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Jose CA
Posts: 47
Car Info: saabaru 92X
anyone here ever had their rpm's drop while accelerating?
i have a little car question for you guys. have you ever had this problem with your car when it just dips in rpm's while accelerating hard? i've notice that in four gear when i try to accelerate from around 3000 rpms it drops back drop to 3500rpm after i hit 4000rpm and then it'll boost up again. and in 5th gear when i try to accelerate hard at 2100rpm it'll go to 2700rpm and drop down to 2400rpms before it picks up again. There's no problem at all when i redline through all the gears, . is it something with the ecu? flat spots in the map? solenoid? turbo? wastegate? or a leak somewhere? i've already reset the ecu and it still happens. can't be the turbo cuz it doesn't happen in any other gears.
I'm running a cobb turbo back, with titek uppipe, and a cobb stage 2 map. so far there's no CEL. the only thing i haven't done is try to reflash the map again. i'll do that after work today. hopefully its the map and i can fix it with a pro tune.
I'm running a cobb turbo back, with titek uppipe, and a cobb stage 2 map. so far there's no CEL. the only thing i haven't done is try to reflash the map again. i'll do that after work today. hopefully its the map and i can fix it with a pro tune.
Last edited by PhatNuts; 05-29-2009 at 03:57 PM.
#4
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Location: San Jose CA
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Car Info: saabaru 92X
i think you're on to something. please explain why you think so.
update:
reflashed the ECU with the Cobb stage 2 map after work, but it was still happening again. now here's the crazy part; stuck the car in 4th gear going about 2000 rpm's and tried to run it straight to red line(not flooring it but firmly pushing on the gas). once turbo started to boost around 3700 or so, rpm's just went nuts and shot itself straight to 7100 within a second. keep in mind that the only thing that was engaged was the gas pedal. i wasn't touching the clutch or the brakes. after it hit redline, i took my feet off the gas and smelled something burning, smells like burnt clutch.
does this mean my clutch is slipping and the answer to my problem with a new clutch? still lost.
update:
reflashed the ECU with the Cobb stage 2 map after work, but it was still happening again. now here's the crazy part; stuck the car in 4th gear going about 2000 rpm's and tried to run it straight to red line(not flooring it but firmly pushing on the gas). once turbo started to boost around 3700 or so, rpm's just went nuts and shot itself straight to 7100 within a second. keep in mind that the only thing that was engaged was the gas pedal. i wasn't touching the clutch or the brakes. after it hit redline, i took my feet off the gas and smelled something burning, smells like burnt clutch.
does this mean my clutch is slipping and the answer to my problem with a new clutch? still lost.
Last edited by PhatNuts; 05-29-2009 at 08:51 PM.
#10
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Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: San Jose CA
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Car Info: saabaru 92X
i purchased the car this year with 45,900 miles, it now has 49,*** miles. now the clutch is gone before i can get in 2 oil changes.
Last edited by PhatNuts; 05-30-2009 at 06:09 PM.
#11
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Car Info: 97' Dodge Cummins and an RSTI thingie
Sucks man, I'm in the same boat, I need a new clutch. I've never tried to launch my STI, and I was in San Francisco the other day and noticed some clutch smell on the larger hills, then I tried launching it and a whole lot of slip happened
#13
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Location: San Jose CA
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Car Info: saabaru 92X
Just to my car back from Capitol Subaru, they did a great job as always. But now i have another problem, they found a rod knock while test driving. the suggestion is to tear down the engine and inspect the assembly. I might need a new engine. my mileage is still below 50,000 miles but my 4 year warranty from Saab expired last month!! WTF!!
So here's my dilemma; if i do need a new engine do i stick with the 2.0 or upgrade to 2.5 or go all out and get an STI swap? has anyone here upgraded their engine? would you recommend it? so far i have one person that went from EJ20T to EJ25T and he recommends staying the the original.
So here's my dilemma; if i do need a new engine do i stick with the 2.0 or upgrade to 2.5 or go all out and get an STI swap? has anyone here upgraded their engine? would you recommend it? so far i have one person that went from EJ20T to EJ25T and he recommends staying the the original.
#14
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has anyone ever turned right to go left?
couldn't help myself.
But on topic I would saw you should flash the car back to stock, and pursue the seller because it sounds like you got the shaft. Otherwise it's Capitol subaru trying to stay in the black.
Rod knock while test driving would mean your car is using assloads more oil than normal, making way less power, maybe misfiring and certainly throwing a code since the factory knock sensor will detect the added noise.
My suggestion, is get the car to a local independent shop like GST or AutoHQ (closest to San Jose) and have them diagnose this "rod knock".
Dealer + Unknown problem == $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ +
couldn't help myself.
But on topic I would saw you should flash the car back to stock, and pursue the seller because it sounds like you got the shaft. Otherwise it's Capitol subaru trying to stay in the black.
Rod knock while test driving would mean your car is using assloads more oil than normal, making way less power, maybe misfiring and certainly throwing a code since the factory knock sensor will detect the added noise.
My suggestion, is get the car to a local independent shop like GST or AutoHQ (closest to San Jose) and have them diagnose this "rod knock".
Dealer + Unknown problem == $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ +