Break in Period
09-23-2003, 04:06 PM
#16
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Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Calgary
Posts: 42
Car Info: 01 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS
"After the break in period disconnect your battery for a couple minutes which resets your ecu then drive it hard.
If this guy hasn't thought of this he's an idiot."
Yes the computer does reset itself. However, I believe it still keeps in memory how you drove the car in the past.
Its like unplugging your computer or removing the cmos battery. All the information in your computer is still there. I am not saying that it rights the history on how you drive your car onto a hard drive, bottom line it still remembers how you drove it in the past. Make sense?
If this guy hasn't thought of this he's an idiot."
Yes the computer does reset itself. However, I believe it still keeps in memory how you drove the car in the past.
Its like unplugging your computer or removing the cmos battery. All the information in your computer is still there. I am not saying that it rights the history on how you drive your car onto a hard drive, bottom line it still remembers how you drove it in the past. Make sense?
09-24-2003, 08:52 AM
#17
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Does to me and I guess to the "Idiot" mechanic at my dealership who drives and rallys an STI.
I think the only way to clear all memory is to Re-Flash the ECU, and I hear nightmare stories all around about that.
I think the only way to clear all memory is to Re-Flash the ECU, and I hear nightmare stories all around about that.
09-25-2003, 10:44 AM
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2003
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Car Info: Blue STi +Red del Sol VTEC
The only way to clear all memory is to reflash but if you reset the ecu it's still like being born again and it will learn how you drive.
Import tuner showed this 2 yrs ago when WRX was new still. After many letters wanting to know why the huge variances in baselines they showed it on the dyno.
They dynoed a wrx they had that was still stock and got 189hp and 196ftlbs they then disconnected the battery and reset the ecu(on some cars there is an actual screw you turn w/ screwdriver like Maxima) then they got 163hp and 170ftlbs. They then beat the car for a couple hundred miles and got 185hp 191 ftlbs.
Import tuner showed this 2 yrs ago when WRX was new still. After many letters wanting to know why the huge variances in baselines they showed it on the dyno.
They dynoed a wrx they had that was still stock and got 189hp and 196ftlbs they then disconnected the battery and reset the ecu(on some cars there is an actual screw you turn w/ screwdriver like Maxima) then they got 163hp and 170ftlbs. They then beat the car for a couple hundred miles and got 185hp 191 ftlbs.
09-27-2003, 07:55 AM
#19
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I have an AMG and it still requires a 1000 mile break in per the manual and yes it comes from the factory with Mobil 1.
Your engine is probably broken in during the first 10 hours of use.
Imagine all the parts moving up and down and in circles, it won't take that long to break it in.
Your engine is probably broken in during the first 10 hours of use.
Imagine all the parts moving up and down and in circles, it won't take that long to break it in.
10-13-2003, 12:07 AM
#20
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What is the big deal here?! If there is soooo much confusion, why dont you just leave the dino oil in for the entire break in period, 5k or whatever, it wont do any harm to the engine. Why is everyone so eager to change to synthetic straight away?
10-14-2003, 03:40 PM
#22
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Rev up quicker? I dont think anyone should be wanting to "Rev up quicker" during the break in period.
10-14-2003, 04:40 PM
#23
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This is a long debated subject with lots of varying views. For every argument will stem another just as believable debate. Here are some things to consider though.
The belief was that synthetic oil was too slippery, not allowing the rings/seals to seat properly. However, many new performance vehicles do come from the factory with synthetic oil. With that in mind all the vehicles that come factory with synthetic oils are limited perfomance oriented automobiles. One might say that is because they are built to higher better tolerances, and because of the performance nature of the engine, it requires the better oil.
As far as the changing the oil sooner or later, the reason you'd want to change the oil sooner and a little more frequent during breaking in is to get rid of all the shavings possibly floating around. This is why many people like to chang the oil early. You could also just change the filter to keep the oil clean if you want to leave the "break in" oil longer before switching over.
The main thing to keep in mind during break in period is to vary the revs. Keeping it under 4k is may be a good idea during the first several hundred miles may be a good idea. However, you should cycle through the whole rpm range early on. Also vary the throttle pressure as you are in break in. This will ensure an adequate range to properly break in the engine.
Many people have said the harder/faster you break in the engine the faster it will be, posting higher dyno numbers earlier on, and the slower/softer break in procedure yields a engine with better gas mileage.
Hope this helps...
The belief was that synthetic oil was too slippery, not allowing the rings/seals to seat properly. However, many new performance vehicles do come from the factory with synthetic oil. With that in mind all the vehicles that come factory with synthetic oils are limited perfomance oriented automobiles. One might say that is because they are built to higher better tolerances, and because of the performance nature of the engine, it requires the better oil.
As far as the changing the oil sooner or later, the reason you'd want to change the oil sooner and a little more frequent during breaking in is to get rid of all the shavings possibly floating around. This is why many people like to chang the oil early. You could also just change the filter to keep the oil clean if you want to leave the "break in" oil longer before switching over.
The main thing to keep in mind during break in period is to vary the revs. Keeping it under 4k is may be a good idea during the first several hundred miles may be a good idea. However, you should cycle through the whole rpm range early on. Also vary the throttle pressure as you are in break in. This will ensure an adequate range to properly break in the engine.
Many people have said the harder/faster you break in the engine the faster it will be, posting higher dyno numbers earlier on, and the slower/softer break in procedure yields a engine with better gas mileage.
Hope this helps...
10-14-2003, 08:28 PM
#24
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Rev up quicker? I dont think anyone should be wanting to "Rev up quicker" during the break in period.
I dont understand the debate if the breakin period is complete (1k miles)
Who really cares what oil you in...
10-18-2003, 12:45 PM
#25
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Rochester, MN
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Car Info: Silver WRX, Black STi
My dealer races a Prodrive prepped rally car so I trust his recommendations. He told me to drive my STi gently for the first 300 miles and then "open it up" after that. The manual says under 4000 RPM for the first 1000 miles. He stated that this applies to other Subaru's but the STi engine is designed entirely differently. He also recommended first oil change at 1000 miles and switching to synthetic at 4000 miles.
10-22-2003, 01:45 PM
#26
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Anybody know what oil this uses? $60/quart, I don't think any dino could be worth that much. Now I'm sure the motor is run before it's put in the car but how much is anybody's guess.
http://www.caranddriver.com/article....&page_number=2
http://www.caranddriver.com/article....&page_number=2
11-22-2003, 11:51 PM
#27
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Location: Tyler, Texas
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Car Info: 1998 Impreza L EJ22
Yeah, it says it in the article
"That, and Pentagon-size maintenance bills. On the trip back from the track, Rapp complained that the Enzo’s special Shell Helix 10W-60 synthetic oil, of which the V-12 requires 12.2 quarts, runs him $60 per quart."
"That, and Pentagon-size maintenance bills. On the trip back from the track, Rapp complained that the Enzo’s special Shell Helix 10W-60 synthetic oil, of which the V-12 requires 12.2 quarts, runs him $60 per quart."
11-23-2003, 01:02 AM
#28
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Car Info: 1973 Huevo Ranchero
here is a response i have from 3 service techs
do not pound your car for extended periods of time! the reason they say "break-in" period is because the engine seals have not totally "baked in" yet. yes they are sealed... but the whole idea is kinda like concrete... it has to have time to cure. if you don't follow the recommended "plan" you will have some serious compression problems in the future
do not pound your car for extended periods of time! the reason they say "break-in" period is because the engine seals have not totally "baked in" yet. yes they are sealed... but the whole idea is kinda like concrete... it has to have time to cure. if you don't follow the recommended "plan" you will have some serious compression problems in the future
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