wastingtape

Has anyone encountered this problem:

When the subwoofer in the trunk gets turned up, the air pressure pushes on the cones of the rear speakers and causes the sound to distort? Any ideas on a fix?

scoobsport98

iTrader: (5)

Get some of those foam baffles for the speakers, I think Crutchfield has them for relatively cheap ($5-10). This should effectively seal off your speakers, while protecting them at the same time.

wastingtape

Looks like a pain to install. Oh well, better than whacked out sound and blown speakers.

gdogg

iTrader: (38)

IMO you don't need rear speakers. . . plus it will sometimes cause a "phasing" effect. basically all 4 speakers are hitting at the same time. yet YOU the driver are nearest the 2 front. the sound you hear from the rear can be pointless. unless you are running a dolby digital(or equivalent) for dvd's movies, games. .. if u just listen to music i suggest you run only the 2 fronts along with your sub. the sound will be so much cleaner.

wastingtape

I don't know about that. I've actually toyed with that concept before. I tried using the fader and brought the sound totally to the front speakers. It just sounded too... limp. I keep them there just for filler, and for any backseat passengers; :P

gdogg

iTrader: (38)

one thing u might be missing is a really strong mid-bass .
theres no scientifics(at least i dont thin there is...) but the majority of set-ups have a separates, and sub set - up. very few people will put a mid sized sub(like a 8 in woofer) to compensate for the mid bass frequencies. my dream set up is to put 8 inch subs in the front floor area along with 2 12's and 6.5 in the front doors.

zunus

to make the speakers all hit your ear at the same time get a head unit that has timing in it. I know Alpine units have it, even the relativley low end ones. It allows you to set the delay in miliseconds to each speaker. This can move the peak listening position to pretty much anwhere in the vehicle.

scoobsport98

iTrader: (5)

My Sony deck has a thing where you can select where people are sitting in the car (driver only, passenger only, front seats, rear seats, and all). I think rear speakers are essential for a complete soundstage (some of the sounds only come from the rear, just like stereo signals are seperate right/left).

For the foam baffles, they are a cinch to install (depending on whether or not you installed your own stereo) If you did, no prob, if you didn't get a car stereo-competent friend to help you out.

wastingtape

It's funny you mention that, because i had been thinking the exact same thing recently. I was looking around the front wondering where some 8"s would fit (in front of or under seats). At this point i'm not ready to sink any more $$$ into my current stereo, but we'll see about the future. If you set it up let me know how it goes. Also, what were you thinking of for amping and powering it all. I need to learn more about power requirements but i wonder if a 2nd battery would be required after a certain point (seems like a lot of amps).

wastingtape

I meant pain only because of the disasembly required. The screws from the rear deck poke down into the trunk which have nuts on them holding the speakers in place. So just to recap, the screw heads are on top of the rear deck while the nuts are in the trunk. When i installed them, i had to remove the back seats and area in between the trunk and the seats so that i could hold the bolt with a wrench and unscrew them from the top. Maybe there's an easier way that i missed. :P

acarguy

iTrader: (2)

8" upfront would be nice....but 99% of the time its very impractical. There are some easier things (also cheaper) that you can look into. One option is to add a midbass driver (probably 6 1/2") creating a 3-way setup upfront. Before doing that I'd look into internal door work. You lose a ton of midbass response in the door (especially in our subies) because of their design. Dampening and sealing the door will go a long way in increasing midbass upfront. If you truly care about SQ and midbass you must dampen in the inner door skins and replace the moisture barrier with some form of sheet dampening. Everyone has their preference (dynamat or other off brands), but I like Cascade products especially when replacing the moisture barrier because some of them can be reapplied.

In essence you're creating a simple enclosure but it will greatly increase the efficiency of your system. Screw the 2nd battery and bigger alternator

wastingtape

NASIOC has a thread with several replies going in thier stereo forum: link

A guy named raamaudio talks a lot about it. Seems like a looooooooot of work, but hey everything that's worth it costs it. :P