Amplifier and Subwoofer Install 02WRX wagon
#1
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Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 3
Car Info: 2002 WRX wagon
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I have the RCA converter kit and all the wires I need. Where do I splice in and how do I get to it? I had a VR6 and a GSR that each were able to splice the RCA kit into the rear speaker wires with a little extra wire but the Subie's speakers are in the doors. I don't care if I do it at the front or rear of the car. Somebody please help! PS - I'm keeping the factory deck.
#2
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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Trying to figure out something creative to put her
Posts: 1,348
Car Info: 2005 CGM WRX Wagon
Probably your best bet is going to be to splice into the wires at the HU. There you have access to all of them and you won't have to worry about the doors. Then just run the RCA's from the deck to the trunk (I assume it's for a sub that's going in the trunk).
#4
no special tools. phillips screwdriver.
wire cutters and a butt splicer and a crimp tool.
or soldering iron to make everything secure and nice. along with shrink wrap tubing.
if you wanna make it safe, spend about $30-50 and get 2 kinds of wiring harness:
1. one to adapt an aftermarket headunit to oem/car side harness
2. another harness that HAS the oem/car side with bare leads on the other end.
that way, you DONT cut up the oem/car side harness. you just make a male to female extension. and in the middle of the extension, that where you tap off for the LOCs.
now, finding the oem/car side harness might be hard to find or might need to be special ordered.
wire cutters and a butt splicer and a crimp tool.
or soldering iron to make everything secure and nice. along with shrink wrap tubing.
if you wanna make it safe, spend about $30-50 and get 2 kinds of wiring harness:
1. one to adapt an aftermarket headunit to oem/car side harness
2. another harness that HAS the oem/car side with bare leads on the other end.
that way, you DONT cut up the oem/car side harness. you just make a male to female extension. and in the middle of the extension, that where you tap off for the LOCs.
now, finding the oem/car side harness might be hard to find or might need to be special ordered.
#5
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Posts: n/a
(I'm sure whitehe9 has probably finished his installation by now, but for anyone else reading this thread...)
The second harness that ldivinag mentioned is commonly called a "reverse harness." Scosche is the only company that makes one for Subarus (part number: SU03R). But theirs lacks one of the Dimmer wires. You need that wire for the illumination on the stock head unit to work correctly. See this pin-out for the Subaru radio connector. All Subaru models/years since 1993 (except the SVX) have used the same physical connector and pin-out.
I've been custom making reverse harnesses in small production runs, mainly for SVX owners who want to install stock radios from other Subarus. See this link for more information.
If you have already purchased the Scosche part, I can provide an extra wire with contact pin so you'll have all 14 wires. E-mail me for details.
The second harness that ldivinag mentioned is commonly called a "reverse harness." Scosche is the only company that makes one for Subarus (part number: SU03R). But theirs lacks one of the Dimmer wires. You need that wire for the illumination on the stock head unit to work correctly. See this pin-out for the Subaru radio connector. All Subaru models/years since 1993 (except the SVX) have used the same physical connector and pin-out.
I've been custom making reverse harnesses in small production runs, mainly for SVX owners who want to install stock radios from other Subarus. See this link for more information.
If you have already purchased the Scosche part, I can provide an extra wire with contact pin so you'll have all 14 wires. E-mail me for details.
#7
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Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: "It will take time to restore chaos." GWB
Posts: 3,461
Car Info: 72 Vespa with curb feelers
Here's what I did:
I pulled the stock head unit out, identified the wires by a cheat guide like above, and placed wire taps on the wires going to the rear speakers (since I'm running a 2 channel amp for base, I wanted to be able to fade the rears). The wire taps are solderless and can be left on should you ever decide to remove the line out. Then, using solderless crimp on "blade",connectors on the line-out wires, the blades slide into the wire taps, and you are good to go. Re-install the factory deck and you are golden.
As long as you install them carefully, you will not damage the factory wires, and you will not have any connection issues. Forget all that soldering, which can be a nightmare for noobs..... OH ****, I just burned a hole in the apholstery!!! ahahhahaa
I pulled the stock head unit out, identified the wires by a cheat guide like above, and placed wire taps on the wires going to the rear speakers (since I'm running a 2 channel amp for base, I wanted to be able to fade the rears). The wire taps are solderless and can be left on should you ever decide to remove the line out. Then, using solderless crimp on "blade",connectors on the line-out wires, the blades slide into the wire taps, and you are good to go. Re-install the factory deck and you are golden.
As long as you install them carefully, you will not damage the factory wires, and you will not have any connection issues. Forget all that soldering, which can be a nightmare for noobs..... OH ****, I just burned a hole in the apholstery!!! ahahhahaa
#8
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Posts: n/a
The beauty of using a forward and reverse harness is that you can crimp (or solder) everything together on your workbench or kitchen table, nowhere near your car's upholstery. This way you don't disturb the factory wires at all. That's why people call this a "stealth" install.
This is also a good solution if you buy a used Subaru under-seat subwoofer and find out the seller didn't include the sub's complete T-harness (some people cut the wires near the sub rather than taking a few extra minutes to de-install the whole harness).
This is also a good solution if you buy a used Subaru under-seat subwoofer and find out the seller didn't include the sub's complete T-harness (some people cut the wires near the sub rather than taking a few extra minutes to de-install the whole harness).
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