ebc which one?
#4
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: hangtown
Posts: 4,618
Car Info: '02 WRagon
stay the freak away from EBC's!!!!!!
they're JUNK!
they fade & grove the rotors and last as long as cardboard would...
worthless hunks of metal that don't stop worth a crap!
stick with Pagids or Porterfields!
R4's are good stuff...R4S for the street
low dust no sqeal long wear...major +++
they're JUNK!
they fade & grove the rotors and last as long as cardboard would...
worthless hunks of metal that don't stop worth a crap!
stick with Pagids or Porterfields!
R4's are good stuff...R4S for the street
low dust no sqeal long wear...major +++
#6
Token Toyota Mod
iTrader: (50)
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Palo Alto, CA
Posts: 52,306
Car Info: Something german
Originally Posted by N600
stay the freak away from EBC's!!!!!!
they're JUNK!
they fade & grove the rotors and last as long as cardboard would...
worthless hunks of metal that don't stop worth a crap!
stick with Pagids or Porterfields!
R4's are good stuff...R4S for the street
low dust no sqeal long wear...major +++
they're JUNK!
they fade & grove the rotors and last as long as cardboard would...
worthless hunks of metal that don't stop worth a crap!
stick with Pagids or Porterfields!
R4's are good stuff...R4S for the street
low dust no sqeal long wear...major +++
#7
Originally Posted by N600
stay the freak away from EBC's!!!!!!
they're JUNK!
they fade & grove the rotors and last as long as cardboard would...
worthless hunks of metal that don't stop worth a crap!
stick with Pagids or Porterfields!
R4's are good stuff...R4S for the street
low dust no sqeal long wear...major +++
they're JUNK!
they fade & grove the rotors and last as long as cardboard would...
worthless hunks of metal that don't stop worth a crap!
stick with Pagids or Porterfields!
R4's are good stuff...R4S for the street
low dust no sqeal long wear...major +++
#13
BanHammer™
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: May 2000
Location: Wagonmafia Propaganda Lieutenant
Posts: 47,588
Car Info: 2001 Forester RS2 SPEC-F
The boost controller will allow you to set what levels you want of boost.
Before the WRX came out, the best way to raise the boost was by using either a manual bleeder valve (not always reliable) or going with the Boost Controller.
The WRX never liked having the boost raised above the stock boost map and would have a fit, and actually put you down HP rather then make more. The WRX is much better off going with the reflash and letting the stock ECU control the boost, and just raise the limit from the reflash.
Now with some applications (and even the STi since we do not have the option to switch boost maps like the WRX can) you can overrun the stock boost solenoid and not be able to build as much boost as you would like. Even with the use of the Perrin solenoid, some large turbo applications will need the assistance of a larger and even faster solenoid like the ones found with the Electronic Boost Controllers.
There are many other options as well, as with the HKS setup, you can have different boost levels setup for low and high boost, and even a Scramble Boost to increase your boost for a set duration (usually its set for 20 seconds or so)
On my eclipse, I had the scramble boost set for 24 psi for 20 seconds. After that, the EBC would revert back to the low or high boost setting, whatever you had set before.
The HKS is a learning controller, which means it will adapt itself to the boost curve and constantly be trying to increase the boost the fastest possible way without going over your preset limit. The motors the EBCs use for the valves are so fast now a days, it can make sever adjustments per second to bleed off just enough pressure to keep the running full psi all the way to redline, as long as the turbo can handle it.
Unless the WRX is running some monster turbo and really needs the use of the EBC, there is no need to use one. I will be running one in the STi at some point so that I can have a low and high boost setting. The only trick will be to reflash to the desired maximum level of boost you would like, so that way the ECU will not freak out if you go over, since the control of the turbo will no longer be from the ECU, and if it tries to limit boost because something is going wrong (it wants to see 15 psi, but the EBC is set for 20) and cut boost, but nothing happens, that’s when it will start pulling timing and go into limp mode almost because the ECU thinks there is something very wrong with the car.
As for setup with the stock system, its a replacement for the boost solenoid and system, so it would be replaced with the one that comes with the EBC
oops.. didnt mean it to be that long
Before the WRX came out, the best way to raise the boost was by using either a manual bleeder valve (not always reliable) or going with the Boost Controller.
The WRX never liked having the boost raised above the stock boost map and would have a fit, and actually put you down HP rather then make more. The WRX is much better off going with the reflash and letting the stock ECU control the boost, and just raise the limit from the reflash.
Now with some applications (and even the STi since we do not have the option to switch boost maps like the WRX can) you can overrun the stock boost solenoid and not be able to build as much boost as you would like. Even with the use of the Perrin solenoid, some large turbo applications will need the assistance of a larger and even faster solenoid like the ones found with the Electronic Boost Controllers.
There are many other options as well, as with the HKS setup, you can have different boost levels setup for low and high boost, and even a Scramble Boost to increase your boost for a set duration (usually its set for 20 seconds or so)
On my eclipse, I had the scramble boost set for 24 psi for 20 seconds. After that, the EBC would revert back to the low or high boost setting, whatever you had set before.
The HKS is a learning controller, which means it will adapt itself to the boost curve and constantly be trying to increase the boost the fastest possible way without going over your preset limit. The motors the EBCs use for the valves are so fast now a days, it can make sever adjustments per second to bleed off just enough pressure to keep the running full psi all the way to redline, as long as the turbo can handle it.
Unless the WRX is running some monster turbo and really needs the use of the EBC, there is no need to use one. I will be running one in the STi at some point so that I can have a low and high boost setting. The only trick will be to reflash to the desired maximum level of boost you would like, so that way the ECU will not freak out if you go over, since the control of the turbo will no longer be from the ECU, and if it tries to limit boost because something is going wrong (it wants to see 15 psi, but the EBC is set for 20) and cut boost, but nothing happens, that’s when it will start pulling timing and go into limp mode almost because the ECU thinks there is something very wrong with the car.
As for setup with the stock system, its a replacement for the boost solenoid and system, so it would be replaced with the one that comes with the EBC
oops.. didnt mean it to be that long