Advice for a rookie autoxer
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: New Freedom, PA
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Car Info: 2004 WRX Sedan 5spd
Advice for a rookie autoxer
I recently purchased an 04 WRX and have intentions to autox it over the summer. My roomate has a 1976 BMW 2002 which he has autoxed for a few years so he plans on being my coach. However, due to the fact that a wrx is very different than a 2002 he can not give me much specific advice on my car. If anyone has any basic advice on minor upgrades for the car that would be great. I don't have much money to blow on performance parts at this point and I would also want to avoid voiding my warranty. So any pointers on inexpensive upgrades (tires maybe?) would be much appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#2
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Car Info: '00 RS, Subrosa Letum
The VERY first thing you should do is figure out what class you would like to compete in. Some modifications will limit you to certain classes.
For handling, the best results come from a larger rear sway bar with stiff endlinks then probably wheels and tires.
I recently found out about understeer on a wet highway off-ramp and am seriously considering getting a limited slip front diff'.
For handling, the best results come from a larger rear sway bar with stiff endlinks then probably wheels and tires.
I recently found out about understeer on a wet highway off-ramp and am seriously considering getting a limited slip front diff'.
#3
The best way to spend your money is on "seat time". Enter as many autox as possible. After you have learned how to drive your car effectively, then start making upgrades to the car that will be consistant with the class the car will run in. The first change would be better tires as the factory RE92's are garbage from a dry weather/performance driving standpoint.
While your friends BMW is very different (lighter, rwd etc) the basics of autox are the same. Learn the course. Walk it as much as possible before driving. Think "ahead" and look ahead when on course. Add a few pounds of air to the tires and have fun Good Luck!
While your friends BMW is very different (lighter, rwd etc) the basics of autox are the same. Learn the course. Walk it as much as possible before driving. Think "ahead" and look ahead when on course. Add a few pounds of air to the tires and have fun Good Luck!
#4
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Location: New Freedom, PA
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Car Info: 2004 WRX Sedan 5spd
Thanks for the advice. I plan on running the car completely stock at first. Plus the RE92's will be good in the snow of the crappy PA winters. However, this summer I may get new tires and save the RE92's for winter. Any recommendations on a good performance tire that still has all season capability?
#5
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i would highly suggest running your first auto-x season completly stock (tires and all). this will really help you learn the car. once you are doing well with that, then figure out what class you want to be in. stay in d-stock or go stx or street mod, or esp and mod your car accordingly. do your mods in slow increments, only one thing at a time. that way you can see how that new part affects the car and can learn to drive it again. one of the biggest mistakes that i have seen people make is that they start off racing with a heavily modified car and they don't do well for at least a year or so cause thats how long it takes them to learn the car and they are always getting beat by stock or near stock cars
a stock car doesn't take as long to learn on cause it is so much more forgiving. a modded car doesn't have as much room for error and so it can be more difficult to learn
and tires is the best spot to start for modifications
there is my $.02
a stock car doesn't take as long to learn on cause it is so much more forgiving. a modded car doesn't have as much room for error and so it can be more difficult to learn
and tires is the best spot to start for modifications
there is my $.02
#6
I'd recommend checking out www.tirerack.com. Once there you can compare almost every "decent" tire, from all-season to competition tires. You can check there specs (tread rating for instance) and reviews of buyers.
Be sure to check if your local autox events will allow you to run different tires. Some regions are very strick about treadwear ratings, sizes and the use of "r" compounds. Others, of course, couldn't care less.
I've heard good things about the Falkon Azenzus (sp?), but I've never used them. I use Khumo Victoracers for autox, but they wear so quickly I don't use them on the street.
Be sure to check if your local autox events will allow you to run different tires. Some regions are very strick about treadwear ratings, sizes and the use of "r" compounds. Others, of course, couldn't care less.
I've heard good things about the Falkon Azenzus (sp?), but I've never used them. I use Khumo Victoracers for autox, but they wear so quickly I don't use them on the street.
#7
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Location: New Freedom, PA
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Car Info: 2004 WRX Sedan 5spd
Thanks for all the advice. Believe me I'm taking notes. I'm stoked for my first autox which may be sooner than later if I get enough of a break from my college classes to do some of the local club's winter events. My roomate agree's with all you in saying to leave my car stock so I can learn it well. My wallet and I both agree that its a very good idea. I'll be needing the money for a helmet anyway.
#8
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for the car, change the alignment. i don't think that most stock classes bind you to the stock alignment. putting more front camber will help reduce understeer, espescially if you replace the stock RE92s with something more grippy. running something along the lines of -1 to -1.5 in the front, and -.5 to -1 in the rear will help, and is cheap.
from a driving standpoint, pay lots of attention to the course. walk the course several times, and learn it well. visualizing a run before you drive it can help to, ditto visualization in between runs. picking out markers that won't move for braking, turning in, and getting on the gas will help to. things like paint lines on the pavement, patches and the like are pretty good if you're out on an open airfield without many points of referance. oh yeah, and relax. don't take it too seriously, and be prepared to be slow the first time out.
from a driving standpoint, pay lots of attention to the course. walk the course several times, and learn it well. visualizing a run before you drive it can help to, ditto visualization in between runs. picking out markers that won't move for braking, turning in, and getting on the gas will help to. things like paint lines on the pavement, patches and the like are pretty good if you're out on an open airfield without many points of referance. oh yeah, and relax. don't take it too seriously, and be prepared to be slow the first time out.
#9
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Unless the '04 WRX is substantially different from the GC chassis and the earlier GD chassis cars, those alignment settings are going to be difficult to get without some mods that are not stock class legal.
With D Stock legal parts, you're likely limited to around -0.75 in the front and fixed (no adjustment except bolt slop) at around -1.0 in the rear. In DS, the popular alignment tool is rear toe out to get the car to rotate. This should only be used on an autocross course because it makes the car very unstable under normal driving conditions (and eats the crap out of the rear tires.)
If you're headed to STX and serious about it, mod away and get a more aggressive alignment than what was posted.
Andrew H.
With D Stock legal parts, you're likely limited to around -0.75 in the front and fixed (no adjustment except bolt slop) at around -1.0 in the rear. In DS, the popular alignment tool is rear toe out to get the car to rotate. This should only be used on an autocross course because it makes the car very unstable under normal driving conditions (and eats the crap out of the rear tires.)
If you're headed to STX and serious about it, mod away and get a more aggressive alignment than what was posted.
Andrew H.
#11
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SCCA classification rules web site
I got this from a member of the Kansas City Region SCCA chapter:
_ http://moutons.org/sccasolo/index.shtml
He did say that this site is for reference only - whats there is NOT binding at the track. If this site doesn't match what is printed in the SCCA rules book then the rule book wins. He also said that if you're going to auto-x, its a good idea to get a copy of the book. They don't cost much, and it helps a lot to have one handy since the competitor, not a tech inspector, is responsible for classifiying the car at an event.
The autocross guys I've talked to said that if you don't want to get into a battle of the checkbooks, stay in the bone-stock class. Good tires and a catback exhaust are about the limit of what you can put on and stay there.
_ http://moutons.org/sccasolo/index.shtml
He did say that this site is for reference only - whats there is NOT binding at the track. If this site doesn't match what is printed in the SCCA rules book then the rule book wins. He also said that if you're going to auto-x, its a good idea to get a copy of the book. They don't cost much, and it helps a lot to have one handy since the competitor, not a tech inspector, is responsible for classifiying the car at an event.
The autocross guys I've talked to said that if you don't want to get into a battle of the checkbooks, stay in the bone-stock class. Good tires and a catback exhaust are about the limit of what you can put on and stay there.
#12
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You should be able to get -1.2 degrees camber out of the front. My rear camber (not adjustable) is something like -1.8 degrees though, no idea why. 1/8" toe out front, zero toe rear on street tires. 45psi front on RE92s, 55psi+ rear. Should work like a charm. I know that sounds a little weird, but I believe you will find that to work very well.
#13
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New Freedom driver new to Rally-x, you should first get real used to your car by learning the abilities of the all wheel drive. Once you have mastered your drifting capabilities you can then forge forward with your auto X challenges. You will need to learn how to throw your vehicle around the course. You can start by tossing your vehicle around the landscape in eastern York county near the vineyards is a good start. Those roads are not paved and provide enough slippage to teach yourself about your car more then you ever thought. Lesson learned about sliding your car via the rough stone and gravel roads will give you enough stamina to conquer all rally X competitions. But understand that pavement and course road travel are different but similar under power. Full speed ahead !
Last edited by Nflight; 01-17-2004 at 04:55 PM.
#14
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Oh and you do not need to alter your vehicle to get good performance they the people on this post are just attempting to weasel out a few microseconds of difference.. YOu need to first get yourself very confident with your vehicle in all situations. Learn what makes the car shift from one side of a tarmack to the other, what it feels like to drift from one outside corner to the other ( remember to only do this with clear site thru the corner). You would be amazed at what some of my friends can do with there vehicles with out modifications. Next Rally to see in person is the STPR in Wellsboro PA, first weekend in June, be there, you will not be sorry!