New Shoes and Huge tread for the Beast (Pics)
#5
I had an argument with my homie about which way the cross drills and slots are supposed to face, but u and I are on the same page. I said they should go foward to save on the life of the pad as long as the cooling fins aren't directional. wdut?
#10
Originally Posted by AWD 20T
Any rubbing up front? Did you have to roll the front as well?
-Kevin
#11
Originally Posted by scoobie555
I had an argument with my homie about which way the cross drills and slots are supposed to face, but u and I are on the same page. I said they should go foward to save on the life of the pad as long as the cooling fins aren't directional. wdut?
-Kevin
#12
VIP Member
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Pflugerville,TX(N.E.Austin)
Posts: 163
Car Info: 2004 Impreza Bugeye STI
Originally Posted by wrexr
Finally got my CE28N's (Gold)
17x8.5 (44offset)
Toyo RA-1's 255/40/17
Had to cut and roll the rear fenders.
17x8.5 (44offset)
Toyo RA-1's 255/40/17
Had to cut and roll the rear fenders.
I mean what do you actually do to the fenders?
#13
I used a cutoff tool to cut/remove the rear fender lip. I purchased some special reinforced thin cutting discs for this job. They were much thinner than the usual discs and cut easily without much heat. Once the excess material had been removed, I used a pipe to roll the edge upward for a clean look. A heat gun helps to prevent chipping of the paint when you do this. A little touch-up paint after to prevent rusting. This is not a mod for the weary. The cut off tool is pneumatic and can cause a lot of damage and injury if not used correctly. I know of a few people who did the same thing with a set of tin snips, I chose a different method.
Here's some pics of the cut area that is only visible from a ground view, as you can see in my first post pics, it is not visible from the side.
Here's some pics of the cut area that is only visible from a ground view, as you can see in my first post pics, it is not visible from the side.