GrimmSpeed Project L
#32
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 139
Car Info: 02 WRX
Got this package in the mail today...
TiC Tranny Crossmember Bushings
TiC 5MT Linkage Update
Tic Rear Diff Mount Bushings
The guys over at TurnInConcepts are awesome to work with! If you guys need anything suspensionwise...they are the best guys to go to.
TiC Tranny Crossmember Bushings
TiC 5MT Linkage Update
Tic Rear Diff Mount Bushings
The guys over at TurnInConcepts are awesome to work with! If you guys need anything suspensionwise...they are the best guys to go to.
#33
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 139
Car Info: 02 WRX
did some more weight reduction today. since i'm going with the hydrolic ebrake i dont need all the regular ebrake hardware that is wrapped around the hub. we took off a good 2lbs per wheel and that doesnt count the things like the ebrake brake lines so we are looking at around 5lbs total.
this pic shows the ebrake hardware that is on the hub
actual weight reduction per wheel
the hub looks so much cleaner after taking it all off
Justin
www.grimmspeed.com
this pic shows the ebrake hardware that is on the hub
actual weight reduction per wheel
the hub looks so much cleaner after taking it all off
Justin
www.grimmspeed.com
#34
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: Tracy, NORCAL
Posts: 841
Car Info: '06 CGM STI
That is some straight Midwest Rust right there...Dayum.
Nice build BTW. I'd really like to have a little project car to wrench on with my boy...MKII GTI or an RS would be great.
Updates are appreciated man. Take care.
Nice build BTW. I'd really like to have a little project car to wrench on with my boy...MKII GTI or an RS would be great.
Updates are appreciated man. Take care.
#35
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 139
Car Info: 02 WRX
H6 updgrade as been started. this is really a simple mod. the only things you need are an H6 sized rotor, H6 caliper bracket, impreza LX or WRX rear caliper. there is defiintely a big difference in rotor size bettwen the weak LX rotor and the leggy H6. i think next time i need to replace the rears i'm going to get the old turbo leggy rear vented rotors.
#36
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 139
Car Info: 02 WRX
we got the new prototype rear camber plates in today from BC Racing. These arent on the market yet so we are trying them out for BC. install was pretty simple with just the supplied tools(preload adjusting wrenches, 6mm allen), 14mm wrench, and a 17mm wrench. everything bolted up perfectly except i had to move the outside allen head bolts to the inside because they were hitting on the fender hole.
first you will want to mark your current preload position for the spring. we used some fashionable pink finger nail polish to mark the spot.
these are the wrenches that are included with the coilovers to adjust the spring preload. loosen the lower one first, then proceed with the second. loosen them enough to take all pressure off the spring so you can begin taken the plate/tophat off.
these are the wrenches you'll need. this is the stock non-adjustable BC Racing tophats. first step will be taken the dampener adjuster off and the main nut the holds the plate on. when you get the dampener adjuster off you will expose a 6mm allen..this is used to hold the stud still while taking off the 17mm nut.
next you will want to slide off the collar that sits around the stud. once the collar is off you can slide the plate off.
here is a pic of the plate completely off. now we will start to install the new adjustable camber plates.
put the new camber plate on. then slide collar back around the stud. tighten down the 17mm nut. you will need to use the allen wrench again to hold the stud from spinning. reinstall the dampener adjuster with your 14mm wrench.
now the camber plate is completely installed. while trying to put the coilver onto the car i noticed that one of the small allen bolts was hitting on the side of the fender hole.
to solve this problem you need to move both outside allen bolts to the middle slot.
this is what the allen bolts should look like once moved over.
now the coilover will slide back up into the fender and bolt right in with the 3 12mm nuts that hold the coilver to the fender.
Hope that helps all of you out that will be doing this mod in the future when these plates come onto the market.
Justin Grimm
first you will want to mark your current preload position for the spring. we used some fashionable pink finger nail polish to mark the spot.
these are the wrenches that are included with the coilovers to adjust the spring preload. loosen the lower one first, then proceed with the second. loosen them enough to take all pressure off the spring so you can begin taken the plate/tophat off.
these are the wrenches you'll need. this is the stock non-adjustable BC Racing tophats. first step will be taken the dampener adjuster off and the main nut the holds the plate on. when you get the dampener adjuster off you will expose a 6mm allen..this is used to hold the stud still while taking off the 17mm nut.
next you will want to slide off the collar that sits around the stud. once the collar is off you can slide the plate off.
here is a pic of the plate completely off. now we will start to install the new adjustable camber plates.
put the new camber plate on. then slide collar back around the stud. tighten down the 17mm nut. you will need to use the allen wrench again to hold the stud from spinning. reinstall the dampener adjuster with your 14mm wrench.
now the camber plate is completely installed. while trying to put the coilver onto the car i noticed that one of the small allen bolts was hitting on the side of the fender hole.
to solve this problem you need to move both outside allen bolts to the middle slot.
this is what the allen bolts should look like once moved over.
now the coilover will slide back up into the fender and bolt right in with the 3 12mm nuts that hold the coilver to the fender.
Hope that helps all of you out that will be doing this mod in the future when these plates come onto the market.
Justin Grimm
#37
Chicks dig me. April Fool's!
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 10,989
Car Info: 1997 Impreza, 2014 BRZ
Cool, cool. I actually had the same problem with those little bolts, too when I tried to install mine. Looks like a really nice project that is coming along. How do you guys like the BC's? I read the review by charlesj and it seemed like it was a really nice set-up. Maybe not as stiff as some of the other set-ups out there but seems like a good set-up for the price.
#38
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 139
Car Info: 02 WRX
Cool, cool. I actually had the same problem with those little bolts, too when I tried to install mine. Looks like a really nice project that is coming along. How do you guys like the BC's? I read the review by charlesj and it seemed like it was a really nice set-up. Maybe not as stiff as some of the other set-ups out there but seems like a good set-up for the price.
it sucks having to stare at these puppies while the car is sitting on jack stands. i want to drive it!!!
#39
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 139
Car Info: 02 WRX
obx rear adjustable trailing arms came today. i was a little worried since they were only 120 shipped but to my surprise these puppies are pretty solid. they have a pillow ball mount on one end..that same end is also adjustable.
install was pretty easy...1 bolt to the hub, 1 bolt to the trailing arm bracket, and 3 bolts that hold the trailing arm bracket to the car.
of course..the pics:
install was pretty easy...1 bolt to the hub, 1 bolt to the trailing arm bracket, and 3 bolts that hold the trailing arm bracket to the car.
of course..the pics:
#40
Chicks dig me. April Fool's!
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Apr 2006
Location: Fremont, CA
Posts: 10,989
Car Info: 1997 Impreza, 2014 BRZ
Wow. That's a pretty good price. Let us know how they perform. I think most of us would be a little skeptical of things that come from ebay. (I searched OBX trailing arms and the first link was to one on ebay.)
#42
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 139
Car Info: 02 WRX
got most of the wiring run through the car. the only piece i'm missing is the 'fuel tank cord' so i need one of those asap.
looks weird looking at the engine bay only cause its starting to look just like the wrx.
looks weird looking at the engine bay only cause its starting to look just like the wrx.
#45
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: St. Paul, MN
Posts: 139
Car Info: 02 WRX
Thanks to one of our newest sponsors L&E Fabrication we just got a bunch of goodies in the mail...
we received basically every bushing you can get for the suspension components and cross members. we also received the whiteline rear xmember locking bolts which i cant seem to get in yet because the threads on the car are all messed up since there wasnt a plug on the hole to stop them from rusting to all hell.
some pics of the lateral link bushings. these bad boys go on specific ends so make sure to read the directions before installation.
We used a press to push out the oem bushings and push in the new bushings. the process is a tad bit tedious and i vividly remember dropping a few f-bombs. most of the oem bushing can just be pushed out but there are a few that need to be cut out because there is a metal sleeve that cant be pushed out...one of these spots is on that bracket that holds the rear diff up(this bracket bolts to the rear xmember).
all in all the bushings are much stiffer compared to the mushy stock ones.
We also received another part that i'm very excited about...here it is in the box. Anyone know what it is?
Thanks to our new sponsor, L&E Fabrication. Their products can be found at http://www.landefabrication.com/
Justin Grimm
we received basically every bushing you can get for the suspension components and cross members. we also received the whiteline rear xmember locking bolts which i cant seem to get in yet because the threads on the car are all messed up since there wasnt a plug on the hole to stop them from rusting to all hell.
some pics of the lateral link bushings. these bad boys go on specific ends so make sure to read the directions before installation.
We used a press to push out the oem bushings and push in the new bushings. the process is a tad bit tedious and i vividly remember dropping a few f-bombs. most of the oem bushing can just be pushed out but there are a few that need to be cut out because there is a metal sleeve that cant be pushed out...one of these spots is on that bracket that holds the rear diff up(this bracket bolts to the rear xmember).
all in all the bushings are much stiffer compared to the mushy stock ones.
We also received another part that i'm very excited about...here it is in the box. Anyone know what it is?
Thanks to our new sponsor, L&E Fabrication. Their products can be found at http://www.landefabrication.com/
Justin Grimm