'06 WRX Wagon Struts/Housings - $50 firm - SF
01-28-2009, 12:04 PM
#16
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Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Tahoe City, CA
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Car Info: 2016 FXT
^ thats correct you can use your existing bugeye parts if you are doing koni inserts into these struts. the lower spring seat is the same on the wrx's. its the upper spring seat/top hat that needs to match the springs being used.
if you use 04+ springs with 02/03 top hats (mis-matched springs and top hats), there is a spacer you can buy to make it work. or was it the other way around (02/03 springs on 04+ top hats) lol.
if you use 04+ springs with 02/03 top hats (mis-matched springs and top hats), there is a spacer you can buy to make it work. or was it the other way around (02/03 springs on 04+ top hats) lol.
02-03-2009, 04:30 PM
#20
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Location: Tahoe City, CA
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hey fellas. im going up to south lake tahoe on presidents day weekend feb 13-16. im going to drop off some coilovers i just sold as well. 'youloze', a reno resident, bought them and will be meeting me up in south lake tahoe that weekend. lemme know if you need a transporter.
not this guy
not this guy
02-03-2009, 04:43 PM
#21
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 481
Car Info: 03 Sonic Yellow WRX Sport Wagon
I'm down. PignoseWRX, shoot me your address and I'll mail you a check for $50 or I can Paypal you if you prefer.
Yin, is 'youloze' his SN on here? If so, I'll PM him. Thanks!
Yin, is 'youloze' his SN on here? If so, I'll PM him. Thanks!
02-04-2009, 10:07 AM
#27
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Location: san jose, HELLA cali
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Car Info: 20psi Daily!
You should just pick up some Tokico D-Specs or KYB AGX's and call it a day then. You'll have to deal with some positive camber up front, but that's nothing that camber bolts in the top and lower holes can't fix. Your best bet may actually be KYB GR2's as they're the only aftermarket bugeye wagon fitment struts available. They're only slightly higher performance than OEM and not adjustable, but they're inexpensive and plug 'n play.
02-04-2009, 10:24 AM
#28
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Santa Rosa
Posts: 481
Car Info: 03 Sonic Yellow WRX Sport Wagon
Here's what I did after extensive research, a couple years ago.
Leave the OEM camber bolt in the top holes. Replace the lower standard bolts with the exact same camber bolts that I run in the rear (top holes only, in the rear), Ingalls. Have your trusted alignment guy max out the lower (aftermarket) camber bolts in the front for negative camber. It's important that the latteral pressures that are exerted on it meet a bolt that's maxed out one way or the other so that those pressures are less likely to cause the bolt to spin. Aftermarket camber bolts have to be thinner than the OEM bolt they're replacing and therefore can only take about 75% of the torque (about 80PSI, OEM is ~120 IRC). That means they're more susceptible to slipping (spinning) but if you max them out one way or the other, they won't slip. Then use the top (OEM) camber bolt to dial in whatever you want. I believe, on my car, I had a choice of -1.5 to -3 in the front and I chose -2.2 in the front, -2 in the rear. It's the perfect alignment for me after trying other settings. I autoX with it and get good rotation yet I never get snap oversteer so I leave it all Winter. I even leave my 20mm 2 way adjustable front sway and my 22mm 3 way adjustable rear sway on full stiff all Winter and the car is totally predictable and safe, even in snow and ice. I'm sure that has something to do with the Wintersport 3D's though.
TMI?
FYI, some people say that it's not worth the risk of a slipping bolt so you should just use camber plates, but if I'm not mistaken, my front tires would be drawn in closer to the strut and fender well liner where they almost already rub...plus I'm cheap!
And I believe I'm running the GC fitment front KYB AGX struts.
Leave the OEM camber bolt in the top holes. Replace the lower standard bolts with the exact same camber bolts that I run in the rear (top holes only, in the rear), Ingalls. Have your trusted alignment guy max out the lower (aftermarket) camber bolts in the front for negative camber. It's important that the latteral pressures that are exerted on it meet a bolt that's maxed out one way or the other so that those pressures are less likely to cause the bolt to spin. Aftermarket camber bolts have to be thinner than the OEM bolt they're replacing and therefore can only take about 75% of the torque (about 80PSI, OEM is ~120 IRC). That means they're more susceptible to slipping (spinning) but if you max them out one way or the other, they won't slip. Then use the top (OEM) camber bolt to dial in whatever you want. I believe, on my car, I had a choice of -1.5 to -3 in the front and I chose -2.2 in the front, -2 in the rear. It's the perfect alignment for me after trying other settings. I autoX with it and get good rotation yet I never get snap oversteer so I leave it all Winter. I even leave my 20mm 2 way adjustable front sway and my 22mm 3 way adjustable rear sway on full stiff all Winter and the car is totally predictable and safe, even in snow and ice. I'm sure that has something to do with the Wintersport 3D's though.
TMI?
FYI, some people say that it's not worth the risk of a slipping bolt so you should just use camber plates, but if I'm not mistaken, my front tires would be drawn in closer to the strut and fender well liner where they almost already rub...plus I'm cheap!
And I believe I'm running the GC fitment front KYB AGX struts.
