WRX Headlight Conversion
#1
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WRX Headlight Conversion
My brother got me a WRX headlight conversion off of ebay for christmas. The Headlights didn't come with directions or anything else, but the lights. My brother and I went to install them and ran into a power issue. On regular lights (single bulb on both sides) they are bright. On High beams (2 bulbs on both sides) they are dull, and the hole time my fog lamps wont work. We beleive that the 2 jumpers for the high/low beams are not strong enouph, so it is not giveing enouph juice to the lights to run highbeams or foglights. We have sent out a question to the seller to ask for more info and manufacturer. I was wondering if someone here might now who made them. If we could find out who made them we could send them the question of how strong the jumpers need to be. A picture of them is attached, I hope. Any information about the lights or install would greatly help. Thanks
Last edited by NJDrew; 12-27-2002 at 08:38 AM.
#2
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dude just sell those and I hope you did not pay more than $150 for them. THE Y ARE CRAP. I think the stock headlights are a lot brighter and you should just keep those on there and save up for JDM or Morettes. AND why is it that you did not research those lights before you bid on them. You would of found out they are crap.
#3
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yeah...I wouldn't mess with those crappy lights. Save your $$ and get a real light replacement.. Try HIDS4LESS.COM thats a start..
Momoney627@aol.com
Momoney627@aol.com
#4
Have to agree here, the people who replied are trying to be helpful and not just blowing smoke. Here is a thread on the "other" forum that you may find helpful:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=265285
I have Morettes on my car, and although they do cost much more than these when it comes to this stuff you really do get what you pay for.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...hreadid=265285
I have Morettes on my car, and although they do cost much more than these when it comes to this stuff you really do get what you pay for.
#5
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I have the lights and am having the same problem, if anybody has a real answer or something of use about these lights please help, also saying they are crap does nothing for the people having problems with them, so if you have nothing useful to say please keep your comments to yourself.......... Thanks
#6
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Thank you jay. Me and jay got as presents. Telling us to sell them and buy better ones is not the answer. Jay- I talked to the guys at our local carparts and they are ordering me stronger jumpers with the same pin configuration. I will give it a try and leet you know.
#7
Drew/Jay-
Although the feedback posted here may seem a bit harsh it was well-intentioned, those who replied were just trying to save you from some potential headaches. Rather than just a one-line response I posted a link to someone else's personal experience with the same product in the hope you would find it informative and helpful.
Now, with that out of the way-
Without regard to the overall quality issue of these lights, the fact that everyone who attempts to install them has similar results with them not operating properly leads me to believe that they are wired improperly when they are manufactured, and/or the harness adapters that are supplied with them (if a separate item) are incorrect. It has nothing to do with jumpers not being "strong enough".
I'm certain that this can be straightened out by someone who understands wiring and is familiar with the Subaru headlight system.
Since you are obviously intent on keeping these lights and using them, I would be willing to help you out. Depending on where you are and what we can arrange, if I can get a first-hand look at these lights with or without a car attached I should be able to figure out what is wrong.
Send me a PM if you want to take me up on this.
Although the feedback posted here may seem a bit harsh it was well-intentioned, those who replied were just trying to save you from some potential headaches. Rather than just a one-line response I posted a link to someone else's personal experience with the same product in the hope you would find it informative and helpful.
Now, with that out of the way-
Without regard to the overall quality issue of these lights, the fact that everyone who attempts to install them has similar results with them not operating properly leads me to believe that they are wired improperly when they are manufactured, and/or the harness adapters that are supplied with them (if a separate item) are incorrect. It has nothing to do with jumpers not being "strong enough".
I'm certain that this can be straightened out by someone who understands wiring and is familiar with the Subaru headlight system.
Since you are obviously intent on keeping these lights and using them, I would be willing to help you out. Depending on where you are and what we can arrange, if I can get a first-hand look at these lights with or without a car attached I should be able to figure out what is wrong.
Send me a PM if you want to take me up on this.
#10
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The way that I am understanding these to work is, the green and red wire are power for High/Low beams and the black is ground. Both the blubs in the new headlights are 55w each, which is the same wattige that is put out for 1 bulb at High Beam in the WRX, however now there are 2 55w bulbs instead of 1. So when you turn on the regular lights (1 bulb), it shows high beams on the dash, with the lights being really bright. When you put on high beams both bulbs in head headlight come on, but are really dim which is because now each bulb is receaveing 27.5w instead of 55w each.
In the engine fuse box of the WRX there are 2 jumpers/relays and 2 15amp fuses, 1 jumper/relay and fuse per light setting ie. Hi and Low.
Our thinking is if you were to up the high beam jumper/relay and fuse to be able to handle 110w them both bulbs would be at there brightest. The problem that still remains is how to get the car to not think that the low lights are brights which could be acomplished by put a lower wattige bulb in that light houseing, Which will also alow the fog lamps to work.
Im sorry if im rambaling, but I can think better than typeing it. Let me know what you guys/girls think aout this fix.
In the engine fuse box of the WRX there are 2 jumpers/relays and 2 15amp fuses, 1 jumper/relay and fuse per light setting ie. Hi and Low.
Our thinking is if you were to up the high beam jumper/relay and fuse to be able to handle 110w them both bulbs would be at there brightest. The problem that still remains is how to get the car to not think that the low lights are brights which could be acomplished by put a lower wattige bulb in that light houseing, Which will also alow the fog lamps to work.
Im sorry if im rambaling, but I can think better than typeing it. Let me know what you guys/girls think aout this fix.
#12
Ok guys here's the scoop-
First of all do NOT attempt to modify the wiring in the car in any way while trying to get these to work. You will probably mess something up and it is completely unnecessary.
The headlight system in your car is a common positive, switched ground system. So, you want to wire these lights accordingly, as follows:
On each headlight, the two black wires should be connected together(it looks like they may be already), then connected to the common positive for that side. On the drivers side this would be the red/blue wire in the factory headlight connector. On the passenger side it is the blue/white wire. The red and green wires are in turn connected to the other two wires in the connector, which are the switched ground for the low and high beams. I don't know which of the red/green wires is low and which is high so you will have to figure that out. The factory wires are yellow/red for low beam switched ground, and red for high beam switched ground.
If you look carefully at the wires in your lights, and where they presently connect when plugged into the factory connectors, I'm pretty sure you'll find they do not match the information I have given you. If you move them around so the wiring is correct according to my instructions I'm willing to bet that the lights will work properly.
As for the lows staying on with the high beams, they will not. When the highs are on the lows will be off. The only way to make them stay on is to add relays and extra wiring to the lights, and to do it safely you need to modify the power and especially the ground feed. The switched ground system carries the ground current for all the lights through a single feed into the headlight switch so you don't want too much current at once.
That's about all I can offer for now, post up and report on how you make out.
First of all do NOT attempt to modify the wiring in the car in any way while trying to get these to work. You will probably mess something up and it is completely unnecessary.
The headlight system in your car is a common positive, switched ground system. So, you want to wire these lights accordingly, as follows:
On each headlight, the two black wires should be connected together(it looks like they may be already), then connected to the common positive for that side. On the drivers side this would be the red/blue wire in the factory headlight connector. On the passenger side it is the blue/white wire. The red and green wires are in turn connected to the other two wires in the connector, which are the switched ground for the low and high beams. I don't know which of the red/green wires is low and which is high so you will have to figure that out. The factory wires are yellow/red for low beam switched ground, and red for high beam switched ground.
If you look carefully at the wires in your lights, and where they presently connect when plugged into the factory connectors, I'm pretty sure you'll find they do not match the information I have given you. If you move them around so the wiring is correct according to my instructions I'm willing to bet that the lights will work properly.
As for the lows staying on with the high beams, they will not. When the highs are on the lows will be off. The only way to make them stay on is to add relays and extra wiring to the lights, and to do it safely you need to modify the power and especially the ground feed. The switched ground system carries the ground current for all the lights through a single feed into the headlight switch so you don't want too much current at once.
That's about all I can offer for now, post up and report on how you make out.
#13
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Well my previous Idea wont work. I was wrong in assuming that one relay was for the high beams and one was for low beams. In the engine bay fuse box one relay is for high/low on one headlight and the other is for high/low on the other headlight.
Muldler- First off, thank you for offering you help, nobody else seems to want to try. Second, your plan to fix this common problem, although smart, is probably not going to work. Its good in theory if the new bulbs in the lights were Double Filament like the stock bulbs, but unfortunately there not. Since they are only Single Filament they will only pull 55w from the 55w relay in the fuse box, making the computer think that they are set on high beams.
I came up with a possible solution without having to alter the original Subaru headlight
wires. You will however have to alter the new headlight’s wires. There is a link below to a power point side presentation with the schematics and description.
PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS UNTIL I’VE TRIED IT FIRST. When I have tried it and know it works, I will let you guys know.
http://members.tripod.com/drewsview/..._Schematic.htm
Muldler- First off, thank you for offering you help, nobody else seems to want to try. Second, your plan to fix this common problem, although smart, is probably not going to work. Its good in theory if the new bulbs in the lights were Double Filament like the stock bulbs, but unfortunately there not. Since they are only Single Filament they will only pull 55w from the 55w relay in the fuse box, making the computer think that they are set on high beams.
I came up with a possible solution without having to alter the original Subaru headlight
wires. You will however have to alter the new headlight’s wires. There is a link below to a power point side presentation with the schematics and description.
PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS UNTIL I’VE TRIED IT FIRST. When I have tried it and know it works, I will let you guys know.
http://members.tripod.com/drewsview/..._Schematic.htm
Last edited by NJDrew; 01-02-2003 at 12:13 PM.
#14
Muldler- First off, thank you for offering you help, nobody else seems to want to try. Second, your plan to fix this common problem, although smart, is probably not going to work. Its good in theory if the new bulbs in the lights were Double Filament like the stock bulbs, but unfortunately there not. Since they are only Single Filament they will only pull 55w from the 55w relay in the fuse box, making the computer think that they are set on high beams.
Sorry but your "55W" theory makes no sense. And, there is no computer involved in the headlight circuit, it's just switches and relays(not counting the DRL module, which doesn't matter here although you should disconnect it).
My offer to check these lights out in person is still good. If I can see 'em I would be able to fix 'em.
The link you posted does not work, access to that page is denied.
Just for perspective, how much automotive/electrical experience do you have? I've been working with stuff like this for over 25 years
Last edited by Mulder; 01-02-2003 at 12:20 PM.