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Just installed boost gauge, have a few Q's

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Old 08-04-2005, 08:24 PM
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Just installed boost gauge, have a few Q's

Hi all. I just got done installing an HKS boost gauge in my '02 WRX. I used the J-spec tuning instructions as to how to do it, and they worked out well. I got the electrical part hooked up fine (dims when I use the dimmer, etc.). The vacuum hose part is hooked up fine as far as I know, but I think I have a problem with the 3-way connector that I bought. I bought it at Autozone, and it does not have the brass pill in it which I think it should have. In the instructions it says that the gauge will work without it, but will be erratic. Well... that seems to be the case. My gauge is measured in kg/cm.. which is just about equal to Bar. I should be getting almost to 1 bar at full boost in 3rd~ gear or whatever (whenever the car hits 14~ psi.) My problem is, when I start the car... instead of having the needle sit at 0, it sits below... at about 500 (mmHg I believe). In first gear it goes from 500 up to 0 (never above), in 2nd gear it goes to 0.5, and in third it goes to 0.5 (haven't had the chance to test out 4th or 5th - only took it up and down my street.) The car feels normal, no drivability issues or loss of power... so I'm pretty sure it's just the gauge/T-connector acting funky. What do you guys think? Where can I get one of the T-connectors with the brass pill? I got the only ones Autozone had, and I'm not sure where to get others (maybe Lowe's, etc.?) Thanks for the input and advice... any and all are welcome. Here is a pic of the gauge installed (matches the stock gauges pretty damn nicely)... Enjoy!



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Old 08-05-2005, 12:00 AM
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afaik, the signal line needs to T into a vacuum line that taps in after the TB. is this what you did?
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Old 08-05-2005, 12:39 AM
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a good place to T it is off teh BOV

you dont need the pill

some people (audi) put a cheap inline fuel filter if it rattles

in teh picture its a 0 because your car isnt on
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Old 08-05-2005, 04:56 AM
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I T'd it where the J-spec recommended it, which was the line coming off the intake manifold into the check valve. I had seen another one doing it into the BOV line, but I didn't know which was better so I just followed the J-spec instructions and did it off that line. Do you think I should put a regular connector back in the manifold (reconnecting it normally) and run the line up to the BOV? Yes, the reading says 0 when the car is not on, but when I turn the car on it goes down to 500mmHg... not sure if that is normal or not.

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Old 08-05-2005, 07:49 AM
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You might be able to contact HKS and get the T fitting and the little pill as well. By the way, where did you get a boost gauge with a green light? I have an HKS boost gauge also, but mine is the DB blue (indiglo) color. It's cool and all but it kinda clashes with the rest of the dash and mine has dull spots...part of the face is not lit as bright as the other. Anyway, I put my T fitting right before my HKS bov with the pill and have had no issues. Hope that helps.


http://www.hksusa.com/
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Old 08-05-2005, 01:57 PM
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I got my gauge on eBay. Saw it, bid, and just happened to win it for pretty cheap. I'm assuming it's a slightly older model. It has a white face.

Anyways, apparently I wasn't at WOT last night because today on the way to and from work, I hit WOT in 3rd gear and it went up to just about 1.0, which is what factory boost level is at. I didn't get on it at WOT in 1st, or 2nd fully yet. I think I am just new to the whole boost gauge game because it just sort of confuses me. At idle, and regular cruising, it sits around 500mmHg, and then once you get on it it goes to 0+. I think I'm just so used to going half-throttle while accelerating because I don't feel like wasting a ton of gas. Do my conditions sound normal to you folks? Thanks again, in advance.
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Old 08-06-2005, 01:10 AM
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when youre idling, youre in vacuum. the TB is closed, and the pistons are trying like hell to suck air in past it. when you start accelerating, the TB starts to open, and less vacuum is produced. once the amount of air being pumped out of the turbo is greater than the amount of air the pistons are trying to suckl in on their own, you are producing boost. you wont see boost unless youre accelering the engine speed under load (ie: in gear). the rest of the time, you should be producing vacuum.
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Old 08-06-2005, 04:47 AM
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Your gauge is reading normally. You will see vacuum at idle, light throttle cruise, and decel, and boost under heavier load. The factory boost control system will give you wastegate pressure (7 psi or .5 bar) until well past half throttle, then it will allow full boost up to about .9 bar.
Any vacuum connection that goes directly to the manifold is ok, the bypass valve hose is normally tapped for this because it is the most readily available.
The reason for the restrictor in the hose is to dampen the needle so it does not vibrate or buzz, but this has no effect on the actual accuracy of the gauge readings.
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Old 08-06-2005, 07:36 AM
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Thanks so much guys, I appreciate it. Sounds like things are right on track. My needle does vibrate some, but it's still readable so I don't mind.
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Old 08-07-2005, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Mulder
The factory boost control system will give you wastegate pressure (7 psi or .5 bar) until well past half throttle, then it will allow full boost up to about .9 bar.
ah ha! is this why my boost gauge seems to hold a sweet spot around .4-.5 bar when im accelerating slowly?
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Old 08-07-2005, 05:17 AM
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^
Yes.
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