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A/C air won't get cold

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Old 06-08-2004, 02:01 PM
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I had an experience once similar to yours. There might be a leak in the compressor itself, or the lines somewhere. Check your inline coolant filter, there should just be a class window on the top to look throught. Also it is possible that the coolant just needs to be recharged. I dont have any idea on your home A/C unit, sorry.
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Old 06-08-2004, 04:08 PM
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I have a similar problem, in my 98 impreza. It used blow somewhat cool air, and this idiot who was helping me and my friend work on my car tried to recharge it, and now it's not cold at all. I think what happened is that he put too much of the coolant in and pushed everything out (or something of that nature), causing the pressure in the system to be low. Now, the ac doesnt blow cold at all, and when I have it on, the compressor turns on and off like every ten seconds or so. I guess this could mean I have a leak.... like the compressor turns on to compress the gas and pressurize it, and the leak causes the pressure to drop, so the compressor turns back on again, and so forth. Could low pressure in the system somehow also cause this? BTW, when the compressor turns on while I'm driving, it feels really weird. Is this the same with a good-working ac system?

And another question, for six1five (or anyone who cares to respond): Do your center vents (right below the storage compartment) blow any air? Does the dial that controls the switching from defrost, high vents, low vents, etc seem to change anything? These questions may sound weird, but I'm asking because the center vents or the dial I speak of don't work in my car. (I ask you because the 200RS has the same dash/vents/controls) What can cause either of these?
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Old 06-08-2004, 05:11 PM
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If the compressor is spinning there is some charge in the system, but it may still be very low. The only way to get it fixed properly is to have a shop put gauges on it and if necessary charge the system and check for leaks. You don't have to go to a dealer, find an independent shop in your area that does AC work.
FYI refrigerant doesn't "go bad". As long as there aren't any leaks and the system is mechanically sound, the refrigerant never needs to be replaced.
The dirty cabin filter could be a problem if it is clogged enough to restrict the airflow across the evaporator. Try running the system with the filter removed if you haven't already done so.
There is no inline filter, what you are referring to is the receiver/dryer unit which removes moisture from the system. In older AC systems there was usually a sight glass in the top of the dryer so you could visually monitor the charge level (a low charge would produce bubbles, clear meant the charge was ok). Current systems don't have this.
Scoobsport, as for your problem it sounds like your "friend" overcharged the system by adding refrigerant without monitoring the pressure with gauges as you are supposed to. What's happening now is that the compressor is cutting out because the pressure is too high and the high-pressure safety switch is being activated. After a few seconds the pressure drops, the compressor kicks back in, and the cycle repeats. You need to reduce the charge in the system to the proper level. I suggest you have a shop check it so it will be correct.
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Old 06-08-2004, 06:30 PM
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Thanks alot for the feedback...

but, if the pressure was too high, wouldn't that mean the air it blows would be somewhat cool? just wonderin'
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Old 06-08-2004, 06:58 PM
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Somewhat cool, maybe. But remember, the compressor is only running for a few seconds and then cutting out due to the high pressure.
It's possible your system has other problems besides the improper charge level. That's part of the reason I suggest taking it to a qualified shop. AC service is not really a backyard DIY thing- although anyone can go to the store, buy a can of refrigerant and put it in, doing this right (so the system is properly charged and will not fail due to contamination etc) requires specific knowledge and equipment that you will only find in a shop.
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Old 06-08-2004, 07:55 PM
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I have a brand new WRX that has the same problem. Since it's under warranty, I can post back here what they tell me was wrong with mine. Maybe its the same problem.
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Old 06-09-2004, 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Mulder
Somewhat cool, maybe. But remember, the compressor is only running for a few seconds and then cutting out due to the high pressure.
It's possible your system has other problems besides the improper charge level. That's part of the reason I suggest taking it to a qualified shop. AC service is not really a backyard DIY thing- although anyone can go to the store, buy a can of refrigerant and put it in, doing this right (so the system is properly charged and will not fail due to contamination etc) requires specific knowledge and equipment that you will only find in a shop.

Well, I do have access to the guages necessaryand leak testing equipment, but the knowlegde about how to use them is lacking. The person who owns the shop my buddy runs is an all-around mechanic, and the guages are there. He has filled other AC systems and they all work great. When we did mine, we didn't use the guages (don't know why), so I'm thinkin' I should give that another shot before paying some AC guru... If all else fails, that'll be where I'm headed.

Thanks again for the feedback... This problem seems to be quite common, but not so commonly discussed... lets get to the bottom of it.
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Old 08-28-2004, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Mulder
Scoobsport, as for your problem it sounds like your "friend" overcharged the system by adding refrigerant without monitoring the pressure with gauges as you are supposed to. What's happening now is that the compressor is cutting out because the pressure is too high and the high-pressure safety switch is being activated. After a few seconds the pressure drops, the compressor kicks back in, and the cycle repeats. You need to reduce the charge in the system to the proper level. I suggest you have a shop check it so it will be correct.
I'm gonna be moving back to the valley soon- I had to fix this problem asap!

Well, today, I took action and bought one of those DIY recharge cans with the hose and guage on it. When I first checked the pressure (on the "L" capped inlet), it read something like 90 psi. BTW, the 'danger' level was anything above 65, and the max fill pressure was 45 psi.

I realize the next thing I did may not have been so smart, but it worked out in the end. To relieve the pressure in the system, I put a small bolt in vise grips and used the bolt to press down the 'pin' in the low pressure valve. ATTN: I am not advising you do this yourself, as I have read of people being harmed by the refrigerant fumes.
I did it bit by bit (as long as I could hold my breath at a time), with my car outside, parked perpindicular to the wind, of course standing upwind. Finally, I got within the acceptable pressure range. I fired up the engine, cranked the AC, and felt the coolness pour
I was wondering, is it not good for the AC system to relieve the pressure in this way?

I also noticed once it was working, and I had the guage still on, that when the compressor turned on, the pressure reading dropped (from ~45 to ~30psi) After about ten seconds at the low pressure, the compressor would stop spinning, and the pressure would rapidly rise up to ~45psi, when the compressor would turn back on. I recognize this cycle (its how it was working before), but it gets cold now- And the pressure readings contradict how we thought it was working. When the compressor turns on, the pressure (at the "L" capped inlet) drops rather than rises. In the lag time that the compressor is off, the pressure at that same spot is rising. Therefore, I don't think it was some kind of high-pressure turn-off that my compressor was going through. Perhaps my system is still screwed up- or maybe a system with too much pressure still tries to operate normally, but can't- Who knows?

Any A/C techs out there wanna chime in?
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