DIY: Perrin 22mm Rear Sway Bar, Endlinks, & Drop Down Brackets
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 7
From: Portland, OR
Car Info: 2007 Garnet Red WRX TR
DIY: Perrin 22mm Rear Sway Bar, Endlinks, & Drop Down Brackets
Hey yall! The time has come to stiffen up the suspension a little. I decided to replace the stock rear sway bar and all connecting pieces at the same time. Overall this installation was very straightforward and took less time then I had expected! My internal time clock was thinking an hour and a couple beers. Instead I was done and on the road in about 30 minutes!
Needed Tools and equipment
1) Floor jack
2) Jack stands
3) 12mm socket and wrench
4) 10mm nut driver or similar
5) 14mm socket and wrench
6) 6 pack of beer and a friend for conversation
Removal of the Stock Equipment
Step 1) Secure the car with blocks to prevent it from rolling forward. Jack the car up using a floor jack (make sure you are on a level surface). Place the jack stands on either side of the car. I placed them where the trailing arm met the frame. Once the jack stands are in place slowly lower the car.
Step 2) Disconnecting the stock rear bar and endlinks from the control arm. This will require the use of a 14mm socket and wrench. I started on the passenger side first and worked my way to the driver’s side.
I made sure to loosen and move the plastic shield that’s over the filler tube for the gas tank on the passenger’s side. There is a single 10mm nut over a stud. Just remove the nut, and the cover can be bent easily out of the way. (Its plastic!)
Step 3) Removing the stock bar and the stock mounts.
Since I purchased the Perrin Drop Down Brackets at the same time as the sway bar I decided to remove everything at the same time (all in one motion). Using a 14mm socket loosen and remove the bolts connecting the rear sway bar bracket to the car. Once all of the bolts are loosened and removed I pulled the stock bar and hard ware out from under the car. I was able to wiggle the bar from the driver’s side to passenger’s side and out with little effort.
Finally with all of the stock hardware removed from the car I was able to start installing the PERRIN gear. This was just as simple as the removal process.
Installing the PERRIN Parts
Step 4) Replacing the factory sway bar mounts with the PERRIN Drop Down Brackets
Using a 12mm socket and wrench I re-install the drop down brackets with the supplied hardware and one of the original bolts. (The OEM bolt is easier to use on the bolt farthest from the vapor canister on the passenger side. The longer one must be used on the rear most bolt to insure enough length is present to mount the vapor canister mounting tab and stout mount). After the brackets were securely in placed I then focused on the bushings.
I greased the PERRIN provided 22mm bushings and placed them onto the bar. Once both bushings were on the bar it was time to install the bar. Using the OEM hardware I started on the passenger side I placed on bolt (medium tight) just to hold the bar in place while I tightened the remaining three into place. Make sure to tighten all four nuts to 35 ft lbs. With the rear bar mounted to the drop down brackets it was time to connect the endlinks. Endlinks were a must for this install when you look at the stock ones and the PERRIN endlinks there is a noticeable difference. The solid PERRIN end links complete the suspension set up for my car.
Step 5) With the rear bar in place I tightened the four bolts connecting the endlinks to the rear bar and strut. (Make sure to tighten to 35 ft lbs) PERRIN provides some poly cushions to go on the lower mounting points. I used the additional grease to lube these up making it easier to get them in the lower control arm.
Before I lowered the car I checked one last time to make sure that everything was tight and then lowered the car. After taking it for a spin I instantly noticed a difference in the performance of the car. No noises creaks rattles etc. Totally seamless transition from stock to the PERRIN bar. I look forward to going to the medium setting on the bar once I am comfortable with the current setting.
Needed Tools and equipment
1) Floor jack
2) Jack stands
3) 12mm socket and wrench
4) 10mm nut driver or similar
5) 14mm socket and wrench
6) 6 pack of beer and a friend for conversation
Removal of the Stock Equipment
Step 1) Secure the car with blocks to prevent it from rolling forward. Jack the car up using a floor jack (make sure you are on a level surface). Place the jack stands on either side of the car. I placed them where the trailing arm met the frame. Once the jack stands are in place slowly lower the car.
Step 2) Disconnecting the stock rear bar and endlinks from the control arm. This will require the use of a 14mm socket and wrench. I started on the passenger side first and worked my way to the driver’s side.
I made sure to loosen and move the plastic shield that’s over the filler tube for the gas tank on the passenger’s side. There is a single 10mm nut over a stud. Just remove the nut, and the cover can be bent easily out of the way. (Its plastic!)
Step 3) Removing the stock bar and the stock mounts.
Since I purchased the Perrin Drop Down Brackets at the same time as the sway bar I decided to remove everything at the same time (all in one motion). Using a 14mm socket loosen and remove the bolts connecting the rear sway bar bracket to the car. Once all of the bolts are loosened and removed I pulled the stock bar and hard ware out from under the car. I was able to wiggle the bar from the driver’s side to passenger’s side and out with little effort.
Finally with all of the stock hardware removed from the car I was able to start installing the PERRIN gear. This was just as simple as the removal process.
Installing the PERRIN Parts
Step 4) Replacing the factory sway bar mounts with the PERRIN Drop Down Brackets
Using a 12mm socket and wrench I re-install the drop down brackets with the supplied hardware and one of the original bolts. (The OEM bolt is easier to use on the bolt farthest from the vapor canister on the passenger side. The longer one must be used on the rear most bolt to insure enough length is present to mount the vapor canister mounting tab and stout mount). After the brackets were securely in placed I then focused on the bushings.
I greased the PERRIN provided 22mm bushings and placed them onto the bar. Once both bushings were on the bar it was time to install the bar. Using the OEM hardware I started on the passenger side I placed on bolt (medium tight) just to hold the bar in place while I tightened the remaining three into place. Make sure to tighten all four nuts to 35 ft lbs. With the rear bar mounted to the drop down brackets it was time to connect the endlinks. Endlinks were a must for this install when you look at the stock ones and the PERRIN endlinks there is a noticeable difference. The solid PERRIN end links complete the suspension set up for my car.
Step 5) With the rear bar in place I tightened the four bolts connecting the endlinks to the rear bar and strut. (Make sure to tighten to 35 ft lbs) PERRIN provides some poly cushions to go on the lower mounting points. I used the additional grease to lube these up making it easier to get them in the lower control arm.
Before I lowered the car I checked one last time to make sure that everything was tight and then lowered the car. After taking it for a spin I instantly noticed a difference in the performance of the car. No noises creaks rattles etc. Totally seamless transition from stock to the PERRIN bar. I look forward to going to the medium setting on the bar once I am comfortable with the current setting.
#3
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 7
From: Portland, OR
Car Info: 2007 Garnet Red WRX TR
Thanks for the kind words you never know how things might go.
Over the last couple of years I have used many a DIY to install parts on a number of my cars. I decided that with my WRX I would like to return the favor and help others the best I can. When I have more time tonight I’ll post a couple of my other DIY’s.
Over the last couple of years I have used many a DIY to install parts on a number of my cars. I decided that with my WRX I would like to return the favor and help others the best I can. When I have more time tonight I’ll post a couple of my other DIY’s.
#4
Garnet
I did a Perrin install too. Prior to lowering the car, did you check whether the sway bar and endlinks are under tension? is there a wrong and right way of installing the sway besides making certain that the bar divides equally on both sides? Since the endlinks were moving, I basically checked that everything is clear and tghten the bar to the endlink. Should I have the bar twisted until there is tension?
Tom.
I did a Perrin install too. Prior to lowering the car, did you check whether the sway bar and endlinks are under tension? is there a wrong and right way of installing the sway besides making certain that the bar divides equally on both sides? Since the endlinks were moving, I basically checked that everything is clear and tghten the bar to the endlink. Should I have the bar twisted until there is tension?
Tom.
#6
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 7
From: Portland, OR
Car Info: 2007 Garnet Red WRX TR
Garnet
I did a Perrin install too. Prior to lowering the car, did you check whether the sway bar and endlinks are under tension? is there a wrong and right way of installing the sway besides making certain that the bar divides equally on both sides? Since the endlinks were moving, I basically checked that everything is clear and tghten the bar to the endlink. Should I have the bar twisted until there is tension?
Tom.
I did a Perrin install too. Prior to lowering the car, did you check whether the sway bar and endlinks are under tension? is there a wrong and right way of installing the sway besides making certain that the bar divides equally on both sides? Since the endlinks were moving, I basically checked that everything is clear and tghten the bar to the endlink. Should I have the bar twisted until there is tension?
Tom.
I’m no professional but you should be fine. As long as the car was jacked up and the rear suspension was not under pressure and you tightened all of the nuts and bolts correctly everything will be fine.
I went back about a week later and checked to make sure everything was tight and in place (it was). I feel that it’s always a good idea to double check an aftermarket work when possible.
Have a good one
#7
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 7
From: Portland, OR
Car Info: 2007 Garnet Red WRX TR
Hey all its been awhile since my last post so I thought I would take a moment to check back in with an update on the PERRIN rear sway bar. And after a couple months and about 2,000 miles I have no complaints. If anyone is looking for a rear sway bar kit I would highly recommend the PERRIN gear.
Best
Best
#8
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,301
From: Lafayette
Car Info: 02 bugeye with tune by Ed
Great write up! I just did mine last night! Although i went with a whiteline bar instead. For some reason, my instructions said not to jack up the car so I just crawled underneath and did it.
HUGE improvement over stock and can't wait to do the front sway bar tomorrow!
HUGE improvement over stock and can't wait to do the front sway bar tomorrow!
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