Where to you guys go for installs for car mods?
05-22-2010, 02:28 PM
#16
I don't have a garage I live in a town house. I just go over to friends houses to do stuff, no lifts there though. Where I work there's lifts so no need to bum off of friends houses anymore lol. Sorry for the mix up, though I do wish I had my own garage and lift.
05-22-2010, 08:38 PM
#17
you cant tune off of our stock ECU's you will need lots and lots of supporting mods. with the amount of money your gonna spend to just boost a 2.5rs (which is a ticking time bomb when boosted) your better off going with a nice swap.
Here is an example of what i mean by mods:
Engine/Transmission:
Ludespeed Stage 2 turbo kit
T3/T4 turbo Garret Turbo
Turbo oil pan
Tial wastegate 38mm
Tial BOV 50mm
Greddy E-manage Ultimate EMS
Greddy 5bar map sensor
Innovate wideband
Aeromotive A1000 FPR
Hallman boost controller
Deatschwerks 550cc Injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump
V6 STI RA gear set for the n/a tranny cyro treated
Hyper voltage meter and grounding kit type mr (dont need**)
NGK BKR7E spark plugs
Spearco intercooler
2-inch up-pipe
2 1/2 inch down-pipe
Greddy oil catch can
Steal braided catch can lines (dont need**)
Blitz nur spec exhaust full system
Aluminum radiator shroud (dont need**)
Exedy stage 1 clutch w/act street disc
Fidanza 11lbs flywheel
Borla headers with thermal wrapping
Tuned by AMS ~ Tuner~ Chris B.
Other things you need:
Blitz turbo timer
Innovate XD-16 gauge
Apex EL boost gauge
Apex EL EGT gauge (dont need** Better off with a oil pressure gauge)
Apex EL fuel press gauge
this is just needed stuff that you will need for a turbo kit on a N/A car. this is my set up and its a fun car to drive and very quick. but thats alotta money that is invested into my car. I would be stupid to go backwards and do a swap now since i'm this far into my car. but you on the other hand can avoid this.
Also thats not anywhere near all the mods i have done to my car.
Last edited by shaggadelic; 05-22-2010 at 08:40 PM.
05-22-2010, 10:36 PM
#18
Registered User
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Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: Ice Palace...not the meth lab, the skating rink.
Posts: 965
Car Info: 1995 dodge neon
I turbod my 2000 2.5rs for less than a thouand dollars
i had a fully stock block in my rs with a t3/t4 that came off of a honda.
i did some fabricating with a honda ebay down pipe,
i ordered some flanges and made my own up pipe. custom exhaust
stock wrx intercooler and bov with random assortment of piping
i had a map sensor not maf, so i built a small plate to go over the map hole in the intake.
put a small vacuum fitting on the plate and put a check valve on it before running vacuum to the sensor. this kept the map from reading boost and freaking out the ecu
I used an apexi (honda) vafc and cartech rising rate fuel pressure regulator to control my fuel.
just dumped fuel as rpm and throttle angle increased, then leaned it out using a cheap EGT gauge until it was only slightly rich.
the stock subaru ecu did a pretty good job with the ignition timing.
sure i could have gotten more power if i went with a stand alone or something. but if you're gonna start spending that kind of money, why not just do a JDM sti swap???
i boosted to 12 psi with 565 injectors until one day (about 10,000 miles later) a ring land broke on cylinder 2...not 4.
it pulled hard and felt great. you dont have to spend a lot of money to make reliable power.
I'm sure mine would have lasted a lot longer with lower compression, stronger rods and pistons.
the crankshaft is not the weak point of this engine nor the block. it's the pistons first, then the rods.
you have heard so many failure stories because of improper tuning, people using stock injectors, and weak pistons.
even if he did go with a usdm 2.0, it cant put out any more power than a stock n/a 2.5 shortblock without a piston breaking.
after i broke my n/a 2.5 block i did a jdm sti swap from a 99 model....and guess what.
the 2.5 was way faster. even with my ghetto tune.
I guess the true question is...How much money is he willing to spend, and what is his power goals?
i had a fully stock block in my rs with a t3/t4 that came off of a honda.
i did some fabricating with a honda ebay down pipe,
i ordered some flanges and made my own up pipe. custom exhaust
stock wrx intercooler and bov with random assortment of piping
i had a map sensor not maf, so i built a small plate to go over the map hole in the intake.
put a small vacuum fitting on the plate and put a check valve on it before running vacuum to the sensor. this kept the map from reading boost and freaking out the ecu
I used an apexi (honda) vafc and cartech rising rate fuel pressure regulator to control my fuel.
just dumped fuel as rpm and throttle angle increased, then leaned it out using a cheap EGT gauge until it was only slightly rich.
the stock subaru ecu did a pretty good job with the ignition timing.
sure i could have gotten more power if i went with a stand alone or something. but if you're gonna start spending that kind of money, why not just do a JDM sti swap???
i boosted to 12 psi with 565 injectors until one day (about 10,000 miles later) a ring land broke on cylinder 2...not 4.
it pulled hard and felt great. you dont have to spend a lot of money to make reliable power.
I'm sure mine would have lasted a lot longer with lower compression, stronger rods and pistons.
the crankshaft is not the weak point of this engine nor the block. it's the pistons first, then the rods.
you have heard so many failure stories because of improper tuning, people using stock injectors, and weak pistons.
even if he did go with a usdm 2.0, it cant put out any more power than a stock n/a 2.5 shortblock without a piston breaking.
after i broke my n/a 2.5 block i did a jdm sti swap from a 99 model....and guess what.
the 2.5 was way faster. even with my ghetto tune.
I guess the true question is...How much money is he willing to spend, and what is his power goals?
05-23-2010, 01:05 AM
#21
I turbod my 2000 2.5rs for less than a thouand dollars
i had a fully stock block in my rs with a t3/t4 that came off of a honda.
i did some fabricating with a honda ebay down pipe,
i ordered some flanges and made my own up pipe. custom exhaust
stock wrx intercooler and bov with random assortment of piping
i had a map sensor not maf, so i built a small plate to go over the map hole in the intake.
put a small vacuum fitting on the plate and put a check valve on it before running vacuum to the sensor. this kept the map from reading boost and freaking out the ecu
I used an apexi (honda) vafc and cartech rising rate fuel pressure regulator to control my fuel.
just dumped fuel as rpm and throttle angle increased, then leaned it out using a cheap EGT gauge until it was only slightly rich.
the stock subaru ecu did a pretty good job with the ignition timing.
sure i could have gotten more power if i went with a stand alone or something. but if you're gonna start spending that kind of money, why not just do a JDM sti swap???
i boosted to 12 psi with 565 injectors until one day (about 10,000 miles later) a ring land broke on cylinder 2...not 4.
it pulled hard and felt great. you dont have to spend a lot of money to make reliable power.
I'm sure mine would have lasted a lot longer with lower compression, stronger rods and pistons.
the crankshaft is not the weak point of this engine nor the block. it's the pistons first, then the rods.
you have heard so many failure stories because of improper tuning, people using stock injectors, and weak pistons.
even if he did go with a usdm 2.0, it cant put out any more power than a stock n/a 2.5 shortblock without a piston breaking.
after i broke my n/a 2.5 block i did a jdm sti swap from a 99 model....and guess what.
the 2.5 was way faster. even with my ghetto tune.
I guess the true question is...How much money is he willing to spend, and what is his power goals?
i had a fully stock block in my rs with a t3/t4 that came off of a honda.
i did some fabricating with a honda ebay down pipe,
i ordered some flanges and made my own up pipe. custom exhaust
stock wrx intercooler and bov with random assortment of piping
i had a map sensor not maf, so i built a small plate to go over the map hole in the intake.
put a small vacuum fitting on the plate and put a check valve on it before running vacuum to the sensor. this kept the map from reading boost and freaking out the ecu
I used an apexi (honda) vafc and cartech rising rate fuel pressure regulator to control my fuel.
just dumped fuel as rpm and throttle angle increased, then leaned it out using a cheap EGT gauge until it was only slightly rich.
the stock subaru ecu did a pretty good job with the ignition timing.
sure i could have gotten more power if i went with a stand alone or something. but if you're gonna start spending that kind of money, why not just do a JDM sti swap???
i boosted to 12 psi with 565 injectors until one day (about 10,000 miles later) a ring land broke on cylinder 2...not 4.
it pulled hard and felt great. you dont have to spend a lot of money to make reliable power.
I'm sure mine would have lasted a lot longer with lower compression, stronger rods and pistons.
the crankshaft is not the weak point of this engine nor the block. it's the pistons first, then the rods.
you have heard so many failure stories because of improper tuning, people using stock injectors, and weak pistons.
even if he did go with a usdm 2.0, it cant put out any more power than a stock n/a 2.5 shortblock without a piston breaking.
after i broke my n/a 2.5 block i did a jdm sti swap from a 99 model....and guess what.
the 2.5 was way faster. even with my ghetto tune.
I guess the true question is...How much money is he willing to spend, and what is his power goals?
then i fixed some stuff half *** and had it tuned at that time i got rid of the ITC, cartech and got the EMU and fixed all my boost leaks but didnt get a new map sensor or a FPR and made 203awhp & 210 awtq
Once i stopped being lazy and put in what i needed to put in the right way now i'm @ 9psi @ 246awhp & 246awtq and i rell you what it makes a BIG difference the when i first had my car. my car has 80,000K miles of boost on a stock EJ251 thats what i mean by reliable even you would have to agree thats impressive.
but thats why i say if you want a reliable car your better off with a swap then boosting it. cause if you go the route i went you will spend a whole lotta money when for less you can make more power. but i can say i have a rareity on this island with my car and i like being able to say that. so whem my car goes BOOM i still wont go with a swap well maybe a block but still will be running the sohc heads jsut add some goodies and be very different!
the 2.5 would be better of all around since you dont lack on the bottom end.
05-23-2010, 01:48 PM
#23
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
Posts: 51
Car Info: 2001 Subaru 2.5 R.S
I give you guys credit for going all that work in swapping motors or turboing the r.s. I've made up my mind and just go with the bolt on kits. My goal is making my subie reach around 200hp. Thanks again for your advice guys. . .
well till you get to the wiring atleast.
05-25-2010, 01:01 PM
#30
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iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Posts: 1,049
Car Info: 2015 CWP STI
You can get away with forged pistons and rods, injectors, pump, and clutch as long as you don't drive like a moron on the RS. Swap to EJ205 or better heads with matching intake manifold for improved breathing, and good EM for fuel and timing adjustments. This saves you wiring from a swap and achieving similar power. The biggest turbo I'd run on this motor is a GT3071R at 1bar if you're looking at balance between power and reliability. But you don't have to listen to my last sentence if you dare not go there, lol.
Last edited by joejoe69; 05-25-2010 at 06:05 PM.
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