iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

All I have is that I am glad I own a Subaru. The timing belt job went very well but I haven't been able to post up about it until now. For sake of documentation this was done on 02/13/07

While doing the timing belt, I decided to change other critical pieces in that area and thats when things got interesting.

Since this is still a 2.0L WRX these parts are ONLY for the WRX

I changed the following items:

A/C BELT - 73323AC000
ALTERNATOR BELT - 809218270
TIMING BELT - 13028AA200
AUTOMATIC TENSIONER - 13033AA002
IDLER #1 - 13073AA180 <superseded to 13073AA142 per Subaru>
IDLER #2 - 13073AA142
IDLER #3 - 13073AA200
CRANKSHAFT SPROCKET - 13021AA141
CYLINDER BLOCK SEAL - 10991AA000
OIL PUMP SEAL - 806733030
WATER PUMP GASKET - 21114AA050
WATER PUMP - 21111AA026
THERMOSTAT - 21200AA072
THERMOSTAT GASKET - 21236AA010
OIL COOLER HOSES - 807611031 (3)
WATER PUMP HOSES - 807615182 / 807612011
SPARK PLUGS - NGK 6097 BKR7E
TGV SENSOR RH (TURBO SIDE) - 22633AA210 (if you damaged your TGV sensor while installing an up pipe or are getting a repeated CEL of P01088/P01090/P01091 you can use Peatys information: http://www.scoobymods.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5160) FYI: this is a PITA to install when it is on the turbo side of the engine.

SUPER THREE BOND 1215 - 004403007


I also was going to change out my camshaft seals but decided against it since there weren't leaking.

You WILL need a special tool to rotate the cam sprocket on the driver side to the proper positioning to put the belt on.

The main reason why I was going to change my oil pump was because it was leaking from the seal. Since it was so complicated to get my crankshaft sprocket off of the crankshaft (due to residue under the sprocket and it bonding with the sprocket) I decide to change the entire pump instead of the seal only. When replacing the oil pump you WILL NEED to put a liquid gasket onto the mating surface of the block and pump. There is a Subaru part number for that sealant. the part number is listed above.

I didn't take many pictures but I'll upload some soon. The total time for just the timing belt should be about 2 hours with the right tools. All the other things I installed took 1 full day (24 hours) since I had problems getting the crankshaft sprocket off.

Jon

whitecel

iTrader: (2)

damn 2 hours...glad to hear the subies are easier than others

iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

two hours and thats a rough estimate. This is because you will need to apply tension to the cam sprocket and align all the markings of the rear timing belt cover and all 4 cam sprockets and crankshaft sprocket at the same time. You will also need to route the belt a certain way and deal with getting the crank pulley off before getting to the timing belt cover. that is VERY fast for a timing belt job.

Jon

caterpill

iTrader: (11)

Great information for that future timing belt install.

I'm sorta planning to do mine in the near future.

May I ask what the mileage was on your car when you decided to do the job?

Shoots.

Thanks for the information.

iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

I have about 80K or very close to it on my engine right now.

I didn't include this but when I opened up my timing belt cover. I noticed that the timing belt tensioner was fully tensioned and there was about 1.5 to 2 inches of play in the belt. After changing the belt the responsiveness of the engine came back. I still have something going on with my engine I think but It's probably due to something else that I need to change.

Jon

hayn_wrx

iTrader: (29)

jon..how much did all of this cost ?....it's good to know that i have you to help me when i plan on doing mine in the future....

+1 information

iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

for all of that stuff I would say about 400+ since some of the items are quite expensive. got subaruparts.com and put in the part numbers that will give you a rough estimate of how much I spent. I did order from there though.

I always order from them so they know who I am.

I would do this if someone else needed it done but I'd have to charge you for the labor.

Jon

de pilipino guy

iTrader: (17)

right on Jon, i'll just wait till i hit the 60k mark.....

iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

The best part of this change is that i now have mid end power that i haven't had for a while. hopefully i can get better times at autox

Jon

danWrX

iTrader: (8)

thanks for the info. and how do get more power on your mid end? what parts helped?

iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

my mid end suffered because of the timing belt stretching. so in other words when i was racing or driving my car i was running less horse power than stock.

hayn_wrx

iTrader: (29)

charge for labor ah..lol..well i'd compensate you of course..i didnt expect it for super free..haha..well i'll wait till the 60k mark like rudy....but i'll let you know ahead of time...thanks

i3luei3lood WRX

Are these part numbers all applicable for a 02 wrx ? Im going to be replacing everything as u did plus the cam and crank seals this coming weekend. Any other part numbers or special tools i should be aware of ? I think cobb has the cam sprocket wrench that i will pick up also. I was told that the oil pump most likely wont need replacing but im gonna go ahead and get one just incase. 110k miles ya i know its all overdue.

TIA

Joseph.

iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

yes, these are all for the 02 WRX specifically since that's what I have.

yes, you'll need the Cam Sprocket Wrench. I also picked up the crankshaft sprocket socket so that I could rotate the crank to align everything before removing the timing belt. I also purchased the cranks pulley stopper.

I did buy the CAM shaft seals but decided against replacing them since there are many things that could go wrong. Since the seals are the type you have to pound in it would be in your best interest to get the seal installers to protect the shafts when installing the seals. In my opinion you really don't need them but it would make your job alot easier and make sure the seal gets installed correctly.

PM me your email address and i'll send you the P/N's

Jon

iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

i didn't get a chance to post this but you'll damage your crankshaft sprocket if you're trying to remove the oil pump since the space between the block and the sprocket is to small. you'll need to find a puller of some sort that can fit behind it. you will want to sand down the edge of the shaft if you have residue there and apply PB Blaster and let it sit for a while to penetrate the rust that has accumulated in that area.

Jon