silver satin

iTrader: (7)

San is running a big brake kit but it still fits I believe under a 16" wheel and his car has went on a diet, and he had last time I seen a set on gumballs on each corner. He is also 100% correct everything I've heard and read shows that stopping distance, tires play a huge role in that people seem to overlook that. Personal experience is I have had good results with SS lines, better pads (more bite), and fluid. Fluid choice is up to you I like Motul others like other brands. I have heard san talk about the Castrol brake fluid he will be able to tell you the details. But I don't think people need to spend the money on BBK when you can upgrade what you got unless your doing it for looks.

oldmansan

iTrader: (4)

try to make this short. There are a lot of things that affect braking. I'll briefly discuss a few.
Weight (mass) of the car. I've taken weight off where I could, but have added weight where it shouldn't be (FMIC). Rotational weight is also important (wheels, tires, rotors, etc). More weight will cause your brakes to "fade" (all other things being equal).
Tires. If your brakes are awesome, the next area you should look at is your tires. If your tires suck your brakes will be limited to the adhesiveness of your tires. Bear in mind if you have "sticky" tires, your brakes will be more prone to higher heat (all other things being equal) and may be subject to "fade".
Fluid. Most stock cars can brake very effectively once or twice in a row. When asked to brake multiple times in a short periods of time, they may "fade".
Pads. Stock pads will usually last longer, dust less, and not stop as well as more aggressive pads. It really depends on what you got from the factory. Pads that dust more and don't last as long as stock are usually more efficient. They will also cause higher temperatures, and may contribute to "fade".
Master cylinder. I think this can be a factor but I don't know enough in this area to discuss intelligently.
Brake bias. Front to rear bias can greatly affect the braking, especially depending on the car (front engine vs. rear engine, etc).
Lines/braces. I am of the mind these only affect the "feel" of the brakes, not the stopping ability or efficiency. I do think this helps to effectively modulate brakes.
Ducts. Having cooked Motul RBF600 at the track, I can personally attest that brake ducts work. Even if you don't have issues with excessive heat, it is cheap insurance.
Rotors. Larger diameter and/or thicker rotors usually have greater thermal capacity. Two-piece rotors are usually lighter, cooler (thermally) and cause less warping (see the StopTech "warping" whitepaper for more on that myth).
Calipers. Stiffer/larger calipers that can provide greater clamping force, more efficient heat dissipation, and larger pad area can increase braking efficiency.
I run a big brake kit, and it isn't for looks. Most here will never need a big brake kit. Unless you are exceeding the thermal capacity of your brakes, or you can't effectively lock your corners, you don't need one.
Please don't compare STI brakes with WRX brakes. Not only are the STI rotors larger, they're thicker (greater thermal capacity). The calipers are also larger and of better quality.

San