sandblast wheels?
#3
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thanks! appreciate it.
Funny, I was already talking to them(Tracey) about powdercoating some bike parts, guess i can take more stuff there now! Good to know they are recommended.
Funny, I was already talking to them(Tracey) about powdercoating some bike parts, guess i can take more stuff there now! Good to know they are recommended.
#7
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Jon said something about using a walnut media type of sandblasting to keep the damage down to the rim as opposed to silica media. I have 0 knowledge of that but, glad he told me, I don't want to take it so far down that I have to spend days and days getting the base back up to something I can paint.
thanks tho, appreciate the warning.
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Pick up some of the aircraft paint strip crap at orileys. I've used it a few times. Get a few of the red scotch brite pads also.
Apply the paint remover in the shade...very liberally. Let it sit for about 30 minutes. spray it with hose and let dry. this may take 3 or 4 applications to get all of the paint off. Then scuff the entire wheel surface with the pads.
Rinse again, let dry. Wipe with prep solvent (be sure to wipe off the prep solvent with a clean rag) then you are ready to spray.
Apply the paint remover in the shade...very liberally. Let it sit for about 30 minutes. spray it with hose and let dry. this may take 3 or 4 applications to get all of the paint off. Then scuff the entire wheel surface with the pads.
Rinse again, let dry. Wipe with prep solvent (be sure to wipe off the prep solvent with a clean rag) then you are ready to spray.
#10
Be careful with the aircraft stripper. It WILL burn your skin on contact. Wear longsleeve shirt, long pants, gloves, and glasses. Don't use it in a windy area either. It is serious stuff.
+1 on Mekala though. I had them sandblast and powdercoat 2 sets of wheels with great results. I recently had them powdercoat my swaybar 'sleeper' black and it came out OEM quality (just want I wanted).
Also, I agree with Cory. Don't powdercoat forged wheels. The baking temp of the powdercoating is roughly 350 degrees F which is also the temp where the grain structure of aluminum forgings begins to be affected. Additionally, the powdercoat lays on thick and will hide any cracks that may appear.
If you ever track the car (not in HI though), the powdercoat may melt between the hub/wheel. Remember, the melting point is approximately 350 F.
And finally, you don't need to worry about using walnut shell media to strip the paint if you are powdercoating. The powdercoat is thick enough that it will fill the imperfections brought on by the abrasive media. If you are painting it then I would definitely use a less aggressive media. If that is the case, then I would go with Mr. Sandman in Mapunapuna.
+1 on Mekala though. I had them sandblast and powdercoat 2 sets of wheels with great results. I recently had them powdercoat my swaybar 'sleeper' black and it came out OEM quality (just want I wanted).
Also, I agree with Cory. Don't powdercoat forged wheels. The baking temp of the powdercoating is roughly 350 degrees F which is also the temp where the grain structure of aluminum forgings begins to be affected. Additionally, the powdercoat lays on thick and will hide any cracks that may appear.
If you ever track the car (not in HI though), the powdercoat may melt between the hub/wheel. Remember, the melting point is approximately 350 F.
And finally, you don't need to worry about using walnut shell media to strip the paint if you are powdercoating. The powdercoat is thick enough that it will fill the imperfections brought on by the abrasive media. If you are painting it then I would definitely use a less aggressive media. If that is the case, then I would go with Mr. Sandman in Mapunapuna.
#11
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It isn't that bad...tingles a little. Wear flops and rinse with hose if you get too much on you.
Just don't get it in your eyes, because that does hurt.
Some type of glasses is a good idea.
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