Interesting story
05-04-2003, 11:22 PM
#16
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Here's what I found posted on NASIOC. It's an excerpt from the site I originally found, but am too lazy to track down again:
Originally posted somewhere on NASIOC
Making your own
How to make your own octane booster (this is the basic formula of one of the popular octane booster products). To make eight 16 ounce bottles (128 oz = 1 gal):
100 oz of toulene for octane boost
25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent)
3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent)
This product is advertised as "octane booster with cleaning agent *and* lubricating agent!". Diesel fuel or kerosene can be substituted for mineral spirits and light turbine oil can be substituted for transmission fluid. Color can be added with petroleum dyes.
-- Ken Mosher
-- Buick Grand National: A *BOOST* of Buick Performance
[Thanks a bazillion for that post. I'll only add one comment regarding using methanol. In a word, don't. It attacks zinc and magnesium very rapidly. Guess what is in carburators and other fuel system parts. I had this graphicly demonstrated to me one time. I was involved in racing chain saws (Oh no, not another one....) In the particular class, my saw ran on 100% methanol. Saws are typically made of a magnesium alloy. I knew I had to clear out the system after each run but one afternoon I forgot. By late evening when I remembered it, the gas tank had already corroded through. I left it to see what would happen and by morning practically the entire saw was a pile of white dust with steel parts interspersed. That included my one-of-a-kind highly ported cylinder I'd spent hours on. *sob*. I saw similar results running methanol in motorcycle engines, though never as bad. JGD]
Making your own
How to make your own octane booster (this is the basic formula of one of the popular octane booster products). To make eight 16 ounce bottles (128 oz = 1 gal):
100 oz of toulene for octane boost
25 oz of mineral spirits (cleaning agent)
3 oz of transmission fluid (lubricating agent)
This product is advertised as "octane booster with cleaning agent *and* lubricating agent!". Diesel fuel or kerosene can be substituted for mineral spirits and light turbine oil can be substituted for transmission fluid. Color can be added with petroleum dyes.
-- Ken Mosher
-- Buick Grand National: A *BOOST* of Buick Performance
[Thanks a bazillion for that post. I'll only add one comment regarding using methanol. In a word, don't. It attacks zinc and magnesium very rapidly. Guess what is in carburators and other fuel system parts. I had this graphicly demonstrated to me one time. I was involved in racing chain saws (Oh no, not another one....) In the particular class, my saw ran on 100% methanol. Saws are typically made of a magnesium alloy. I knew I had to clear out the system after each run but one afternoon I forgot. By late evening when I remembered it, the gas tank had already corroded through. I left it to see what would happen and by morning practically the entire saw was a pile of white dust with steel parts interspersed. That included my one-of-a-kind highly ported cylinder I'd spent hours on. *sob*. I saw similar results running methanol in motorcycle engines, though never as bad. JGD]
05-04-2003, 11:31 PM
#17
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Originally posted by IS2Scooby
Your O2 sensors AREN'T worthless, Pat! You car won't run right without the front O2 sensor functioning properly...
With that being said, C16 won't kill 'em IMMEDIATELY...
Your O2 sensors AREN'T worthless, Pat! You car won't run right without the front O2 sensor functioning properly...
With that being said, C16 won't kill 'em IMMEDIATELY...
I know my rear one is more than likely shot, so I made the broad assumption.
05-05-2003, 12:02 AM
#18
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Yup, the rear O2 is really only there for OBD-II compliance. The front O2 is used to determing your fuel enrichment during closed loop operation (at least during idle and part throttle/cruise situations). Without it you'd have one funky idle, a nice CEL, a black bumper from over-rich idle exhaust, and a possible "limp home mode" condition.
Again, even with that said a lot of people run leaded race gas without having to immediately replace their sensors. I used to run numerous tankfuls of leaded race fuel in my 5.0 before having to replace the o2 sensors. The difference being aftermarket replacement o2's for the Mustang were only ~$50/pop. I believe the factory Subaru sensors are MUCH more expensive...
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Again, even with that said a lot of people run leaded race gas without having to immediately replace their sensors. I used to run numerous tankfuls of leaded race fuel in my 5.0 before having to replace the o2 sensors. The difference being aftermarket replacement o2's for the Mustang were only ~$50/pop. I believe the factory Subaru sensors are MUCH more expensive...
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