HELP- Pre Detonation at 5k rpm

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Old 04-29-2010, 01:23 PM
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Thats good news. I think you can order one from Servco for $1300. haha.

ebay will probably be your best bet for an un-molested ECU.
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Old 04-29-2010, 02:21 PM
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Yeah I just realized that they where that expensive, I think Ill take Infek up on his offer.
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Old 04-29-2010, 07:06 PM
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Nice. If you have a laptop, it's super easy to flash an ECU. Just borrow a tactrix cable and load the software. Glad we found the problem.
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Old 04-29-2010, 07:26 PM
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That's a sigh of relief. Good job on finding the culprit!!
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Old 04-29-2010, 07:32 PM
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$1300 for an ECU? Goddammmnnnnnnnnnnn. Yeah, I'd take infek on his offer too. lol.
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Old 04-30-2010, 07:14 AM
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hmm...another option...stand alone...

whats the powertrain warranty on a subie?
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Old 04-30-2010, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by houdni
hmm...another option...stand alone...
That's what I'm talkin about. Endless capabilities....endless. Depends what you get though, lol.
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Old 04-30-2010, 11:37 PM
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Infek... You still gonna sell the ecu?
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Old 05-01-2010, 03:07 AM
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Noooo the ecu isn't the problem! I swapped out the ecu with infek and had the same prob. Back to the start again... Any suggestions?
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Old 05-01-2010, 03:34 AM
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nvm.
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Old 05-01-2010, 06:26 AM
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are you sure that the timing belt hasnt jumped?

coils, ecu, boost leaks, fuel pressure, fuel pressure regulator, spark plugs, checked compression, checked timing belt,


what is left?

try swaping knock sensor, cam pos sensor, and crank pos sensor

if that doesnt do it...you have a wiring problem



double check for boost/vacuum leaks

take a can of brake cleaner and spray it all over any hoses, couplers, fittings everywhere
see if the idle drops or if car dies

this is way out in left field, but i have seen weirder ****. check the brake booster, make sure you arent bleeding out boost.

just for fun, try bypassing the stock boost control solenoid and use just the manual and then try just the stock.

switch your BOV back to recirculate

also check your inlet pipe under the intake manifold, if it is cracked you will get strange MAF readings.


Try to take anything modded back to stock...like I said before, many problems with japanese cars are related to something that the owner has changed on the car. the wrx is a well engineered vehicle in stock form, other than the vagina fart transmission.
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Old 05-01-2010, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by spinplay01

double check for boost/vacuum leaks

take a can of brake cleaner and spray it all over any hoses, couplers, fittings everywhere
see if the idle drops or if car dies

this is way out in left field, but i have seen weirder ****. check the brake booster, make sure you arent bleeding out boost.

just for fun, try bypassing the stock boost control solenoid and use just the manual and then try just the stock.

switch your BOV back to recirculate
I honestly dont think it has anything to do with boost. If it did, this RPM wall thing would only happen under load (under boost). But the OP says he can't rev over 5k even when the car is in neutral. That doesn't point to a boost issue IMO. I like the cam/crank/knock sensor idea though.

When you tried the new ECU, that was without the UTEC correct?
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