Help...front drivers side making noise...
#1
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Help...front drivers side making noise...
Searched all over...found some people with the same symptoms but they did not post their findings...
So, I noticed about a week ago, that my car started making this kind of oscillating noise near my front, drivers side wheel...
Sounds almost like a tire rubbing inside plastic at slower speeds then kind of starts with this scree....scree...scree... sound that speeds up and slows down with the spinning of the wheel...applying the brakes...hard, the sound seems to go down or stop...I'm hoping there is something stuck in the brake pad/rotor area...almost sounds a rock could be in there...touching the rotor at it's closest tolerance area each time...but when I inspect the rotor, it looks nice and clean...with no sign of scratching (only outside edge though...) couldn't see anything, it was dark in my garage...
I'm hoping it is brake related...maybe an alignment...and not a bearing issue...but I really don't drive my car all that hard...
I have an extra set of rotors that I will have lathed...and a set of Project Mu, lightly used pads I may be putting on...I have Hawk HPS pads on right now that probably have 15K on them...they look pretty good still...at least the outside pad...couldn't see the inside pad...I'll have to pull them out...heard they wear un-evenly...
Anyhow, any input or similar situation/resolution would be greatly appreciated...I would like to try and resolve this...
Thanks,
Brent
So, I noticed about a week ago, that my car started making this kind of oscillating noise near my front, drivers side wheel...
Sounds almost like a tire rubbing inside plastic at slower speeds then kind of starts with this scree....scree...scree... sound that speeds up and slows down with the spinning of the wheel...applying the brakes...hard, the sound seems to go down or stop...I'm hoping there is something stuck in the brake pad/rotor area...almost sounds a rock could be in there...touching the rotor at it's closest tolerance area each time...but when I inspect the rotor, it looks nice and clean...with no sign of scratching (only outside edge though...) couldn't see anything, it was dark in my garage...
I'm hoping it is brake related...maybe an alignment...and not a bearing issue...but I really don't drive my car all that hard...
I have an extra set of rotors that I will have lathed...and a set of Project Mu, lightly used pads I may be putting on...I have Hawk HPS pads on right now that probably have 15K on them...they look pretty good still...at least the outside pad...couldn't see the inside pad...I'll have to pull them out...heard they wear un-evenly...
Anyhow, any input or similar situation/resolution would be greatly appreciated...I would like to try and resolve this...
Thanks,
Brent
#3
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i'd have to hear it to be remotely sure but sounds like your on the right track. i had something similar when i put on my 4pot kit. i think the pads just needed to b bedded down again so everything is fine now. try rebedding in the pads and see if that helps. if not, try jack the car up and spin the tire. it should give you a good idea. check to see there's nothing touching the wheel and if anything take off the caliper and spin the hub to see if it's bearing related. hope that helps.
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Brent,
It could be that your wheels are unbalanced that could be causing the oscillating noise that you're hearing. It could also be rubbing. If you suspect that your tires are rubbing the first thing that I'd do is jack up the car and take off the front wheel and inspect the wheel well splash guards. If it is rubbing then you'll know by the wear markings.
It could also be your brake pads or worse your wheel bearings. Like Justin stated we won't be able to come remotely close to a solution unless we hear it for ourselves.
Jon
It could be that your wheels are unbalanced that could be causing the oscillating noise that you're hearing. It could also be rubbing. If you suspect that your tires are rubbing the first thing that I'd do is jack up the car and take off the front wheel and inspect the wheel well splash guards. If it is rubbing then you'll know by the wear markings.
It could also be your brake pads or worse your wheel bearings. Like Justin stated we won't be able to come remotely close to a solution unless we hear it for ourselves.
Jon
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Thanks Jon and Justin...
yeah...I know, you gotta hear this thing...
I've already done most of the suggestions you made...I inspected the wheel the other night...shot some brake cleaner on and in between the pads/rotor..splash guard seems good...it's more of a quiet squeal...not costant but like an oscillating sound...
It was getting dark the other night...and the lighting in my garage wasn't enough so I stopped...
I'm going to take off my pads tonight and see if there is anything lodged in there...my Hawk HPS+ pads are only about 15K old...shouldn't be worn yet...but I wouldn't mind it if they were...that would be a cheap fix.
I have an extra set of rotors that I will have cut/turned...and install some new/used Project Mu NS pads this weekend if I can get the rotors back before then...
BTW...where do you guys take your rotors to be cut/turned...Checkers charges like $25/rotor...seems a lot really...any ideas would be appreciated...thanks for your input.
Brent
I've already done most of the suggestions you made...I inspected the wheel the other night...shot some brake cleaner on and in between the pads/rotor..splash guard seems good...it's more of a quiet squeal...not costant but like an oscillating sound...
It was getting dark the other night...and the lighting in my garage wasn't enough so I stopped...
I'm going to take off my pads tonight and see if there is anything lodged in there...my Hawk HPS+ pads are only about 15K old...shouldn't be worn yet...but I wouldn't mind it if they were...that would be a cheap fix.
I have an extra set of rotors that I will have cut/turned...and install some new/used Project Mu NS pads this weekend if I can get the rotors back before then...
BTW...where do you guys take your rotors to be cut/turned...Checkers charges like $25/rotor...seems a lot really...any ideas would be appreciated...thanks for your input.
Brent
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i haven't done mine yet but my dad always goes to redline. i have no idea how much it costs though. I would also recommend Ted's Machine shop. They did my STI flywheel
Jon
Jon
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ok...called around today...
Seems to be two types of shops...one is like Lex Brody and Firestone...they want to cut your rotors while on your car...strange...anyhow, they said it was for insurance reasons...cost: $24.95 - $49.95 per rotor...that is nuts.
I called Ted's and they said they don't cut rotors...they are too busy doing other things...they did say flywheels for sure though...
Anyhow, I ended up calling Checkers...cost: $15/rotor...very reasonable...I'll be dropping mine off tonight to pick up on friday...
Cheaper place still is the Hickam/Pearl Harbor Hobbyshop if you are military...it's only $10/rotor there...
Thanks for the research Jon,
Brent
I called Ted's and they said they don't cut rotors...they are too busy doing other things...they did say flywheels for sure though...
Anyhow, I ended up calling Checkers...cost: $15/rotor...very reasonable...I'll be dropping mine off tonight to pick up on friday...
Cheaper place still is the Hickam/Pearl Harbor Hobbyshop if you are military...it's only $10/rotor there...
Thanks for the research Jon,
Brent
#9
Subaru actually recommends getting your rotors cut on an on car lathe
the reason being some vehicles are very “sensitive” to rotor runout. If most of the runout is not in the rotor…but, is caused by mounting surfaces on the wheel hub, abnormal noise/vibration and pedal pulsation may be the result. A bench lathe can not address mounting induced runout.
By using an on car lathe the rotor in its “native environment”. Since the mating surface between the rotor and hub is not disturbed…this helps to ensure the friction surfaces are machined truly perpendicular to the wheel’s axis of rotation.
the reason being some vehicles are very “sensitive” to rotor runout. If most of the runout is not in the rotor…but, is caused by mounting surfaces on the wheel hub, abnormal noise/vibration and pedal pulsation may be the result. A bench lathe can not address mounting induced runout.
By using an on car lathe the rotor in its “native environment”. Since the mating surface between the rotor and hub is not disturbed…this helps to ensure the friction surfaces are machined truly perpendicular to the wheel’s axis of rotation.
#11
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Problem fixed...
Thanks to Dan, Brad, Burt and Stacy's for their help and company...had a good time replacing out the rotors and pads...
looks like the pads (Hawk HPS+) wore down the rotors enough to create a lip on the outer and inner edge of the rotors...the pads must have just barely rubbed on this edge creating that oscillating squealing sound...
Kind of nerv-racking though...after the install, I wanted to take a little lunch break...but reluctantly got in the car for a test drive...after a few blocks...NO NOISE!
Also installed my new deck into the car...now for some sounds after my break in...
Thanks for the help everyone.
Brent
looks like the pads (Hawk HPS+) wore down the rotors enough to create a lip on the outer and inner edge of the rotors...the pads must have just barely rubbed on this edge creating that oscillating squealing sound...
Kind of nerv-racking though...after the install, I wanted to take a little lunch break...but reluctantly got in the car for a test drive...after a few blocks...NO NOISE!
Also installed my new deck into the car...now for some sounds after my break in...
Thanks for the help everyone.
Brent
#13
might be a little too late, but you wanna brake in those pads using the 30, 30, 30 method. brake at 30mph, cool it for 30 seconds, do it 30 times.... it takes a long time but it will create a good contact surface on the pad and rotor.
#14
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^^^Thanks Jimi
I did that later that night...had about a 5 mi loop...did that all around...
results: No squealing at all, and the pads are quiet...really like these Project Mu NS pads...so far, not so much dusting either...kind of like my Hawk HPS+...much improved over the stock pads
Thanks for everyone's input...confident doing pads/rotors now...I need to learn to bleed brakes now...saw how HSPN does it...doesn't look too bad at all...nice little cheap oil catch too...
results: No squealing at all, and the pads are quiet...really like these Project Mu NS pads...so far, not so much dusting either...kind of like my Hawk HPS+...much improved over the stock pads
Thanks for everyone's input...confident doing pads/rotors now...I need to learn to bleed brakes now...saw how HSPN does it...doesn't look too bad at all...nice little cheap oil catch too...