racer808

iTrader: (2)

hey guys i was thinking of getting the fp red but before i do i wanna know wat u guys think about this turbo

AngrySubyWagon

iTrader: (9)

Here's a FAQ...try and gauge this with what your daily driving preferences are. I believe you'll experience alot more lag with this bad boy than your 39. Anyone care to hop in?

Forced Performance Red
(65 lb/min, 400-650whp, May Require Modification)
Internal wastegate is now a ZERO $$ option. That's right! If you want it internally gated, you can have it internally gated for FREE, Nada, Zip. For pump gas applications we have added the option to select a larger 34mm wastegate flapper valve. This larger flapper valve increases the wastegate flow volume and allows boost to be set below 20psi dependably over the entire RPM range. Do not select this option if you intend to run race gas and boost pressure above 28psi.
Perrin makes an intake tube that fits this.
This turbo can be special ordered with a dry bearing housing that allows you to eliminate the water connections to the turbo. The standard configuration uses a Subaru type water cooled bearing housing with both water connections on the same side of the CHRA.
The thread specifications for the wet housing are as follows: Oil inlet - 10mm x 1.5mm, Water in/out 14mm x 1.5 (same side).
Expect to achieve full boost with the proper mods and a quality tune between 4500-5000rpms. Fuel upgrades for this turbocharger and proper engine management should be considered necessary for all vehicles.

oldmansan

iTrader: (4)

Unless you're after a dyno-queen, I don't see the point. With a JDM motor that revs to at least 8K, it might be worth it. On a 2.5 STI block, I wouldn't even consider it, unless you're looking at a fully-built block with light internals and valvetrain that can rev high enough to take advantage of the larger turbo.

A JDM 2.0 is more capable than a 2.5 STI block for high revs IMHO. I'd rather run a medium to large turbo on a 2.0 with higher rev characteristics than on a 2.5. My preference over both of those would be a 2.2 or 2.35 that could rev up high, 8500-9000+.

Short gears are usually sought after. Longer gears are advantageous for cars that are making large amounts of power. Short gears are quicker, but tend to easily spin wheels/tires when not wanted. Long gears help to put power to the ground, and eliminate frequent shifting. As long as the motor provides the necessary power, longer gears can be faster. An oxymoron, but still true. Shifting takes time. How many times do you shift on a lap?

In short, I'll opt for the slightly smaller displacement motor if it revs higher, makes similar power, and saves weight. I will also opt for the longer gears if they prove to be more competitive than shorter gear ratios that actually cost me time on the track.

San

austinp02

iTrader: (3)

What san said. my reccomendation would be to first decide what your performance goals are for the car. do you want a dyno queen with a huge laggy turbo just for the bragging rights? do you want a daily driver with a little more power but near stock response? are you willing to trade some of that response on a daily driver to be more competitive on track days? find out what you want the car to do and then the better question to ask is what turbo/engine mods suits those goals and then go from there.

AngrySubyWagon

iTrader: (9)

if you wanna go big with big boost go for the SR56 from APS...those are more 2.5l friendly. Or perhaps the SR40.