austinp02

iTrader: (3)

Well, the good news is my a/c is icy cold and doesn't make horrible noises anymore. the bad news is i now have a CEL that wont go away.

I pulled the light with the accessport when i got home from the meet and it reads the same as what you got jon.

P1086 Tumble generator valve #2 (LH) position sensor circuit low input

I reset the ecu several times and the light wont go away. It comes on instantly, even before I start the car. the car seemed fine on the way home from the meet and when i got back i rechecked both tgv sensors and didnt find anything unusual and they are both secure. after i thought about it i did notice the idle of the car start to go rough and sound funny while we were doin the recharge on the a/c but it seems to have returned to normal. I'm not totally sure which is the LH sensor and which is the RH. i will look into it more in the morning. its always somethin.....

VRT MBasile

iTrader: (17)

let me know if you want the service manual for the engine, I can send it to you in a PDF. Just email me at RunningBlind121@hotmail.com because I probably wont be back on i-club today

austinp02

iTrader: (3)

Thanks man, i have one tho.

91sleeper

iTrader: (13)

try linking this on nasioc. GL

austinp02

iTrader: (3)

yea, im pretty sure the LH #2 tgv sensor is just dead. so if anyone has one i'm probly lookin to buy.

iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

as stated previously the TGV sensor is the same as the one that sits on the throttle body. These are interchangeable. If you swap them for the LH TGV sensor and the one that sits on the throttle body, you will know if it's bad or not. If you don't get a CEL after swapping for the TGV LH sensor but you do get a CEL for the throttle body sensor then you definitely know that the sensor is bad. If you do NOT get a CEL then it's more likely that the sensor needed to be reset due to mikes mishap before coming down to the meet earlier that night.

good luck

Jon

iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

here is the information that I posted in OEM Part Number Thread: https://www.i-club.com/forums/hawaii-43/oem-part-number-thread-167496/

austinp02

iTrader: (3)

Thanks jon, im gonna try swapping the sensors as soon as the engine cools down a bit. the a/c is nice and chilly btw and i dont have near the power drop with it on as i did with the old compressor. anyway, i just want to make sure that the preloading and installation is the same on the throttle position sensor as the tgv. i know its the same sensor, i just want to be sure i dont need to turn it farther or something. you mentioned that there was a possibility that the sensor just needs to be "reset" how do you do that?

iNfEk

iTrader: (33)

when you take off the one at the throttle body the moment you take off the second screw keep some pressure on the sensor and let up until it starts to move to it's home position. that way you'll know how it starts. I'm very sure and it's validated in peatys instructions in the link i posted that you have to make it vertical then rotate it 90º to the tightening position and the screw holes will line up. notate the screws that are used. one is a hex head (manifold) and the other is a philips head screw (throttle body). the one on the throttle body is soft metal so be careful and use the correct head screw driver (#2) or you'll strip the **** out of it.

Jon

it'll only turn only so much so you won't have to worry about over rotation. you'll see what i'm talking about on the reverse side of the sensor. DON'T USE YOUR HE-MAN STRENGTH TO TURN IT THOUGH. save that for the rear bracket for the AC compressor

austinp02

iTrader: (3)

Update here. So I took off the LH tgv sensor that was causing the p1086 and plugged it into the harness of the throttle position sensor and immediately popped a p0122 (throttle sensor low input). i didnt swap the throttle sensor to the tgv location because i dont have a 90degree screwdriver to reach the bottom screw, but i'm fairly positive its not the harness thats causing the problem so there isnt much of a reason to do that swap anyway. the sensor does look like it may have taken a hit or something as there is a plastic chunk missing, otherwise it looks to be in working order and doesnt have any burn or char marks or anything. i think once i finish putting it all back together im gonna go get an angle screwdriver and a multimeter to double check the voltage.

here are a couple pics of the sensor

91sleeper

iTrader: (13)

yo mike any work on this yet? you get it fixed or still getting evil cel?

austinp02

iTrader: (3)

Yup all good. I ordered a new sensor from a guy off nasioc. I called the dealer and they of course wanted almost $150 bucks for one and I wasn't about to pay that. The guy I got it from bought it to replace one on his sti but ended up picking up one locally before it got there. So I got a brand new one for $50 bucks shipped, not bad.
So I plugged it in, reset the ecu and fired her up. The cell dissapeared and the idle went back to normal. Before it was Idling high, about 1,500 at startup and 1,000 once warm, plus it was a bit rough. Now its silky smooth and hangs at about 500 like normal.

I took apart the old sensor to see what may have caused the failure and at first didnt see much. The sensor is pretty simple and straightforward, definitly not anywhere near $150 worth of crap lol. Anyway looking closer at the sensor plate there is a hairline fracture that I think broke the connectivity of the circuit causing the failure. *shrug* oh well, **** happens. Here's a few pics for your viewing pleasure.