Engine failure diagnostic/damage
07-05-2010, 02:18 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 309
Car Info: Hi, I'm John.
Engine failure diagnostic/damage
Well engine failed. It's an EJ257 with WRX heads. It was overheating and stalled out while driving. Tried letting it cool and filled with water. It cranks but doesn't start. While cranking coolant/some oil shoots out of the coolant reservoir. Oil level was normal.
Thoughts of the damage? Maybe just a blown head gasket? Since it cranks, could the block/heads have warped? There are no obvious signs of fluids leaking out of the bottom of the block, so hopefully it didn't crack. I should probably start with a compression test.
Ideas?
I know I have a coolant leak on the turbo area but usually it doesn't leak THAT bad. I just topped it off a couple days ago.
Thoughts of the damage? Maybe just a blown head gasket? Since it cranks, could the block/heads have warped? There are no obvious signs of fluids leaking out of the bottom of the block, so hopefully it didn't crack. I should probably start with a compression test.
Ideas?
I know I have a coolant leak on the turbo area but usually it doesn't leak THAT bad. I just topped it off a couple days ago.
Last edited by Thug Nasty; 07-05-2010 at 02:21 AM.
07-05-2010, 01:55 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Oahu, HI
Posts: 309
Car Info: Hi, I'm John.
Going to assume HG for now until I can get everything ripped apart.
Parts List:
Head Gaskets 2x
Cam Seals 4x
Cam Cover gaskets 2x
New Head Bolts? (maybe not)
Water Pump + gasket 1x
Oil Pump 1x (maybe not)
Timing Belt + tensioner 1x (maybe not)
Thermostat + gasket 1x
Block to TGV gasket 2x
Block to Exhaust mani 2x
exhaust mani to UP 1x
UP to turbo 1x
turbo to DP 1x
Oil (5 qt) + filter 1x
Coolant/Water (2 gals) 1x
Anything else?
Parts List:
Head Gaskets 2x
Cam Seals 4x
Cam Cover gaskets 2x
New Head Bolts? (maybe not)
Water Pump + gasket 1x
Oil Pump 1x (maybe not)
Timing Belt + tensioner 1x (maybe not)
Thermostat + gasket 1x
Block to TGV gasket 2x
Block to Exhaust mani 2x
exhaust mani to UP 1x
UP to turbo 1x
turbo to DP 1x
Oil (5 qt) + filter 1x
Coolant/Water (2 gals) 1x
Anything else?
07-05-2010, 02:20 PM
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 1,635
Car Info: 08 Nissan Titan, 12 MazdaSpeed 3, 15 Honda CRV
If you dont mind, I may want to come and watch too if its ok..
When and where you thinking of working on your car?
07-05-2010, 02:37 PM
#11
people never listen to Dave,right Jess..
change it everytime you change the timing belt its only a 135 bucks no need to kill some valves over that
07-05-2010, 07:59 PM
#13
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: K@ilu@, H@w@ii
Posts: 1,129
Car Info: 06 STi
he means since your doing the timing belt...
do everything...
waterpump...
idler pulleys and tensioner since your @ a high mileage and your there...
its like changing a clutch and not resurfacing the flywheel, the throwout bearing and pilot bearing since its there and all apart...
about the bearings though...you can have an engine seize because of bearings and later start ...when its cold of course....though most bearing problems usually start with a knock or oil issue problems...
do everything...
waterpump...
idler pulleys and tensioner since your @ a high mileage and your there...
its like changing a clutch and not resurfacing the flywheel, the throwout bearing and pilot bearing since its there and all apart...
about the bearings though...you can have an engine seize because of bearings and later start ...when its cold of course....though most bearing problems usually start with a knock or oil issue problems...
07-05-2010, 09:07 PM
#14
he means since your doing the timing belt...
do everything...
waterpump...
idler pulleys and tensioner since your @ a high mileage and your there...
its like changing a clutch and not resurfacing the flywheel, the throwout bearing and pilot bearing since its there and all apart...
about the bearings though...you can have an engine seize because of bearings and later start ...when its cold of course....though most bearing problems usually start with a knock or oil issue problems...
do everything...
waterpump...
idler pulleys and tensioner since your @ a high mileage and your there...
its like changing a clutch and not resurfacing the flywheel, the throwout bearing and pilot bearing since its there and all apart...
about the bearings though...you can have an engine seize because of bearings and later start ...when its cold of course....though most bearing problems usually start with a knock or oil issue problems...