Ej22t Swap
02-14-2009, 10:26 AM
#91
Update and soon I hope to have some pictures.
Took the short block completely apart last night. Trickiest part was the wrist pins. If you ever need to remove them don't buy a $100 Subaru wrist pin removal tool. Find a really small and long flat tip screw driver and tap the back via the adjacent wrist pin access hold on the opposite side of the block. The block was being hot tanked as of last night, should pick it up this afternoon. Picks soon
Took the short block completely apart last night. Trickiest part was the wrist pins. If you ever need to remove them don't buy a $100 Subaru wrist pin removal tool. Find a really small and long flat tip screw driver and tap the back via the adjacent wrist pin access hold on the opposite side of the block. The block was being hot tanked as of last night, should pick it up this afternoon. Picks soon
02-16-2009, 01:39 AM
#92
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Santa Rosa, CA
Posts: 1,610
Car Info: 4日本車
Update and soon I hope to have some pictures.
Took the short block completely apart last night. Trickiest part was the wrist pins. If you ever need to remove them don't buy a $100 Subaru wrist pin removal tool. Find a really small and long flat tip screw driver and tap the back via the adjacent wrist pin access hold on the opposite side of the block. The block was being hot tanked as of last night, should pick it up this afternoon. Picks soon
Took the short block completely apart last night. Trickiest part was the wrist pins. If you ever need to remove them don't buy a $100 Subaru wrist pin removal tool. Find a really small and long flat tip screw driver and tap the back via the adjacent wrist pin access hold on the opposite side of the block. The block was being hot tanked as of last night, should pick it up this afternoon. Picks soon
02-18-2009, 09:19 AM
#94
Update and soon I hope to have some pictures.
Took the short block completely apart last night. Trickiest part was the wrist pins. If you ever need to remove them don't buy a $100 Subaru wrist pin removal tool. Find a really small and long flat tip screw driver and tap the back via the adjacent wrist pin access hold on the opposite side of the block. The block was being hot tanked as of last night, should pick it up this afternoon. Picks soon
Took the short block completely apart last night. Trickiest part was the wrist pins. If you ever need to remove them don't buy a $100 Subaru wrist pin removal tool. Find a really small and long flat tip screw driver and tap the back via the adjacent wrist pin access hold on the opposite side of the block. The block was being hot tanked as of last night, should pick it up this afternoon. Picks soon
02-18-2009, 10:44 PM
#98
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Ewa Beach Hawaii
Posts: 1,049
Car Info: 2015 CWP STI
i originally intended on using phase 1 NA legacy 2.5L SOHC heads, but I was afraid of not getting a good seal with the EJ18 block. the EJ18's bore is 87mm, the EJ25's combustion chamber is 99mm. right now i'm using EJ20 hg's with my build, I might be able to get away with using EJ22 hg's if i slap on EJ25 heads.
02-18-2009, 10:58 PM
#99
I am using Phase 2 EJ251 heads and headgasket. The crank is being reworked and I'm using Manley rods and Wiseco pistons (.020 overbore). This setup leaves you with a 8.6:1 compression ratio. Good for running higher boost levels while still maintaining some low end torque. Should be good for my conservative 300hp goal. The heads will be rebuilt around TWE stage 2 cams and corresponding high lift springs. My plan is to run a deadbolt Zilla 16g which should balance top end and spool pretty well.
02-19-2009, 10:48 AM
#101
Yea, I thought about going the WRX/STI head route but it would force me to crack into the wiring and use a different ECU. I'm still on the fence about it though because with the new valve train and stand alone I'm in as deep as a WRX setup. Right now I'm more worried about the short block assembly. Between powder coating, porting, and rebuilding I have more than enough work to do. Also I am beginning prep work to paint my car which should be interesting since I haven't sprayed in four years now 
Yikes!
Yikes!
02-23-2009, 10:03 PM
#104
I am using Phase 2 EJ251 heads and headgasket. The crank is being reworked and I'm using Manley rods and Wiseco pistons (.020 overbore). This setup leaves you with a 8.6:1 compression ratio. Good for running higher boost levels while still maintaining some low end torque. Should be good for my conservative 300hp goal. The heads will be rebuilt around TWE stage 2 cams and corresponding high lift springs. My plan is to run a deadbolt Zilla 16g which should balance top end and spool pretty well.