ECU grounding question and CEL solution
06-15-2007, 10:13 AM
#16
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the guy that replied to you on your original thread hit the nail on the head when he stated that you should be at 1.0-1.2 volts at idle.
If you look at the numbers you posted you stated that your WOT or full throttle is set to 5.5. why is your idle anywhere near that?
actually it's not set to that, that's wat it was reading when I had the scan tool put on, the guy the that did the read was tripping on that too
Further since this is probably user error in tuning this should NOT affect your ECU in anyway shape or form since it is only a piggy back computer and NOT a reflash or standalone.
you stated earlier in post 6 of this thread that the car runs the same with and without the UTEC connected. that baffles me because of the earlier statement I made on this post.
yep, this baffles me, too..kind of made me wonder if it may be a grounding problem somewhere since that's all was pretty much touched or could have been affected during installation and the fact that no maps were loaded at the time
When resetting your ECU you should have the UTEC completely disconnected from the car and not even wired in at all. Connect all the connector securely onto the ECU and that your battery negative terminal (at least) is disconnected prior to touching anything with your ECU. when everything is reconnected as far as ECU is concerned hold the brake peddle down for a few seconds until your mileage display disappears. Then reconnect the battery and start your car. The idle SHOULD be different. IF not then you need to further investigate your engine situation. Your engines ECU should retain all factory parameters since your ECU has NOT been flashed at all. IF your car still idles like **** then you might have fried your ECU.
I'll retry the reset, I really hope I didn't fry the ECU, the closest person that'll let me mess with his car and has the same year and model lives about an hour away, bleh...
if all things as far as your coilpacks and ground wires...etc. in the engine bay are fine you should have no problems. I would double check the connectors connecting to the coilpacks as i mentioned earlier and see if that makes a difference.
will re-check this
good luck dude.
thaks
at what point (RPM) with the UTEC disconnected from your car and you driving it does the car feel like its going to die?
it feels like it's going to die at idle and if driving right before the car hits boost.....smells like it's running mad rich2
Jon
If you look at the numbers you posted you stated that your WOT or full throttle is set to 5.5. why is your idle anywhere near that?
actually it's not set to that, that's wat it was reading when I had the scan tool put on, the guy the that did the read was tripping on that too
Further since this is probably user error in tuning this should NOT affect your ECU in anyway shape or form since it is only a piggy back computer and NOT a reflash or standalone.
you stated earlier in post 6 of this thread that the car runs the same with and without the UTEC connected. that baffles me because of the earlier statement I made on this post.
yep, this baffles me, too..kind of made me wonder if it may be a grounding problem somewhere since that's all was pretty much touched or could have been affected during installation and the fact that no maps were loaded at the time
When resetting your ECU you should have the UTEC completely disconnected from the car and not even wired in at all. Connect all the connector securely onto the ECU and that your battery negative terminal (at least) is disconnected prior to touching anything with your ECU. when everything is reconnected as far as ECU is concerned hold the brake peddle down for a few seconds until your mileage display disappears. Then reconnect the battery and start your car. The idle SHOULD be different. IF not then you need to further investigate your engine situation. Your engines ECU should retain all factory parameters since your ECU has NOT been flashed at all. IF your car still idles like **** then you might have fried your ECU.
I'll retry the reset, I really hope I didn't fry the ECU, the closest person that'll let me mess with his car and has the same year and model lives about an hour away, bleh...
if all things as far as your coilpacks and ground wires...etc. in the engine bay are fine you should have no problems. I would double check the connectors connecting to the coilpacks as i mentioned earlier and see if that makes a difference.
will re-check this
good luck dude.
thaks
at what point (RPM) with the UTEC disconnected from your car and you driving it does the car feel like its going to die?
it feels like it's going to die at idle and if driving right before the car hits boost.....smells like it's running mad rich2
Jon
thanks for the suggestions, I'm leaning more towards the frying of the ECU, can't figure out how I did this........
06-16-2007, 04:13 PM
#18
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think I found the problem.........
No. 2 cylinder coilpack:
correct me if I'm wrong and reading Infek's diagram wrong no.2 cylinder is driver side front pack, either way looking at in reverse would be 3....I had a glance at the other corner pack and that one's melted the same........well I guess I'm buyng new coil packs....anywhere to get these, besides the dealership since there probably closed and going to cost some mad scrips
since I'm down here might as well change plugs I can get the NGK LFR7AIX <one step colder than stock> or may need to wait on the OEM ones as the Napa down the road doesn't have them in stock....any problems going colder, I heard of misfires, if you don't run too hot......
BTW thanks Justin for stopping by....
correct me if I'm wrong and reading Infek's diagram wrong no.2 cylinder is driver side front pack, either way looking at in reverse would be 3....I had a glance at the other corner pack and that one's melted the same........well I guess I'm buyng new coil packs....anywhere to get these, besides the dealership since there probably closed and going to cost some mad scrips
since I'm down here might as well change plugs I can get the NGK LFR7AIX <one step colder than stock> or may need to wait on the OEM ones as the Napa down the road doesn't have them in stock....any problems going colder, I heard of misfires, if you don't run too hot......
BTW thanks Justin for stopping by....
06-16-2007, 05:36 PM
#20
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had a feeling....glad you found the problem and it's not too bad. how did the coilpacks get melted like that?
06-16-2007, 06:04 PM
#22
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holy crap!!!
I guess your overly advanced timing did that in addition to other parameters changed on your UTEC while tuning. coil packs can be found sometimes in the classified sections of i-club and nasioc as well as ebay if you dont want to buy new.
Coilpacks generally do NOT go out but will if to much voltage is applied to them.
judging by the pictures it does appear that to much voltage was applied.
glad you found the problem but at least it isn't your ECU
and also your UTEC wasn't bad either (or yet to be determined)
i knew it had to do something with your engine since the problem was present with and without the UTEC
Jon
I guess your overly advanced timing did that in addition to other parameters changed on your UTEC while tuning. coil packs can be found sometimes in the classified sections of i-club and nasioc as well as ebay if you dont want to buy new.
Coilpacks generally do NOT go out but will if to much voltage is applied to them.
judging by the pictures it does appear that to much voltage was applied.
glad you found the problem but at least it isn't your ECU
and also your UTEC wasn't bad either (or yet to be determined)i knew it had to do something with your engine since the problem was present with and without the UTEC
Jon
06-16-2007, 06:12 PM
#23
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I had to make sure that I wasn't loosing my mind. but here is a picture from the FSM for the cylinder order which confirms what I posted earlier...
06-16-2007, 06:24 PM
#24
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anyone know the number to Servco parts and days and hours of operation, probably just going to suck it up and buy new ones........if you have a commercial account at Servco Toyota would it apply to Servco Subaru as we get a little discount with Toyota............
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