Upgraded WRX hubs on the GF


Comparison of the WRX rotor vs. the stock GF rotor


WRX rotor installed on the GF. Unfortunately I ran into two snags the first one is the GF speed sensor was to long for the WRX hubs. Second with the upgraded rotors and calipers I will no longer be able to run the steelies for stealth like I wanted to .

 

I swapped out the pedal set today. It was fairly straight forward with the exception of slightly drilling out the top holes of the pedal set as you can see from the first pic. The rest was cake. It's amazing how a car that is stock a cable clutch and already has the hole and mounting area for a hydraulic clutch.

 

lookin good

 

looking good jess!!!

 

two projects going on at the same time, .....sweet!!

 

man... I still wish I could help on this one.

working sucks when there is so much fun to be had

man this brings back memories

 

^^^yeah i wish you could help too. But what you have lacked in physical appearance/help, you have more than made up in phone a friend knowledge and of course parts.

 

Bolted up the rear diff tonight w/Mr. Shaggy only ran into one problem. The rear mounting bolts that go into top portion (just above the rear diff cover) were to short. The simple fix was to just go to Home Depot and find longer ones. I am guessing for whatever reason the rear subframe mount for the diff for the 97 OBS is thicker than the 03 WRX one.

 

which diff bolts? The ones that connect the diff to the rear cross memeber? If those are the ones then you definitely do NOT want to use the wrong grade bolts. your diff will fall off from your car.

Jon

 

its the two just of above the rear diff drain/fill holes. you also bring up a good point i need to check on the grade of the bolts.

 

I think I have the support diff studs and nuts that support the diff onto the rear subframe

I believe subaru uses at LEAST and 8 grade stud there.

If I find them you can have them.

Jon

 

**** I wasn't able to find both studs and bolts but I was able to find one stud and one bolt. no grade marking though.

 

yup those are the studs with the nut on them. see jess i told ya to keep them the same but if it helps the bolts he got where SS bolts



jon in the pic you posted that bolt looks like it is the same size that jess has at home but the nut is ceised(sp?) on and thats what made the stud too short

 

how do you mean it's to short? and how'd you guys put the diff in? in order for you to properly fit the rear cross member with the diff you have to also drop the rear sub frame area which interlocks with the diff and the rear cross member before you can put it up.

I would use the correct things especially for critical pieces.

you don't want the bolt to long since it could damage the diff housing. It's not threaded all the way through.

Jon

 

We put it in the same way we took it out. we also line all the other bolts up and made sure everything fit (which it all did.) there is a difference between the 2 cross members tho and thats where the problem came on this one. there is a rubber washer or something like that goes between the diff and RCM. thats why the bolt is to short. it didn't even touch the diff while we test fitted everything. and the dif was flush with the rubber part. when jess put the stud in to test fit he could tell the stud didn't even make contact with the diff. thats why he wanted to go get the SS bolts

we took into consideration that the stud would only go in so for nd also had to take into consideration and measure the distance of how long the bolt needed to be to even make it into the diff.


hope this will help everyone reading this paint a simple picture to picture

jess post up some pics.