door speaker / sound system upgrades
10-11-2004, 03:21 PM
#1
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door speaker / sound system upgrades
Anyone upgrade their speakers in their doors?
if so what did you put in them. did you replace the tweeters?
Approximate cost and where you got them from would be great!
I'm looking for clean sound quality. If there is some bass in the music I'm listening to I'd like them to be able to handle it. If I have to have subs they MUST be removable.
Should I have a seperate AMP for F/R speakers and one for the Sub? recommendations please...
I suck at audio!
ASE?
Jon
if so what did you put in them. did you replace the tweeters?
Approximate cost and where you got them from would be great!
I'm looking for clean sound quality. If there is some bass in the music I'm listening to I'd like them to be able to handle it. If I have to have subs they MUST be removable.
Should I have a seperate AMP for F/R speakers and one for the Sub? recommendations please...
I suck at audio!
ASE?
Jon
10-11-2004, 03:39 PM
#2
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i would only go with an amp for the f/r if you are looking for really great sound quality but i think the power the deck puts out should be more than enough. If you go with an amp for a sub besure its 2 channel those usually put out the best results for the sub. If you have any questions jon give me a call ill be more than happy to answer some of your questions to the best of my knowledge.
10-11-2004, 04:30 PM
#5
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I have Memphis Audio amps running my JL Audio DVC 10" and my door speakers. My door speakers are Progressive they aren't the best but they were in the car when I bought it. How much can you spend for speakers? When it come to speakers it is all preference you can go listen to them in the store but they aren't going to sound like that in your car. I like MB Quart personally, Rainbow speakers sound really good but kinda pricey. PM blkblur he has I think Focal in his doors and back deck and he said they are really good.
10-11-2004, 04:38 PM
#6
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Here's my system...
Head
Unit:
Alpine 9827 CD/MP3/WMA Deck (I like it because it matches the interior and doesn't do the stupid folding screen thing which breaks)
Buy the head unit that has the features you like such as types of media (CDs, DVDs, MP3 etc.), cosmetics and extras (bass boost, power etc.). I've pretty much gone away from the flipping mechanisms just because of the wear and tear that they take on.
Front Stage:
MB Quart 5.25 Separates (you should DEFINITELY get separates since your car comes stock with them anyways) the tweeters are easy to install (you can use any method like zip ties etc. I made custom metal brackets cuz it was easy. The woofers need "help" in the form of either a pre-fabbed plastic piece from the net or an MDF spacer ring (I bought some off the net but lost the site address).
Most 5.25" separates will fit in our cars. HOWEVER, it's the depth that's the problem! Our stock speakers are pretty shallow because they don't really have the motor/magnet structure to produce great sound. Most aftermarket speakers are much deaper than the stockers because they DO have the bigger magnet etc. to help them perform better. It's pretty easy to get them to fit though.
Also, you do have the option of moving up to 6.5" speakers for more bass but this requires minor modification or a really good pre-fab kit to get it to fit. This may be a route for you if you decide not to pursue a sub...in this case get either the Inifinity Kappa 6.1 separates ($299) or the JL Audio ZR 650-CSi (dunno the price). Both of these can hit to 40hz which is pretty low (your ears can hear sounds down to 20hz)
Rear Fill:
Stock because I fade my music to the fronts...it's a complicated theory behind this.
Sub:
Alpine Type R 12" sub in a pre-fabbed and carpeted box (easy to take out and I didn't wanna mount it permanently yet until I figure out the direction I want to take the car)
Amps:
Kenwood Excelon KAC X301 to the sub (pushing about 800 Watts into 2 ohms)
Pheonix Gold Octane R 2.5:2 to the Fronts...haven't installed yet because I'm lazy (50 Watts into 4 ohms)
When looking at amps you wanna get enough for your needs. In that case don't buy the huge 5,000 watt amp for a medium sized system. Also, you need to get the correct features such as power, crossovers and size to fit your system. Buy an amp that will power your speakers appropriately (if the speakers are rated at 80W RMS then match the amp power rating to it). Also, if your deck doesn't have a built in crossover, you'll want an amp that can filter out any signals that your speakers can't handle. I.e. most subs can handle up to 200 hz (the low frequencies).
You can listen to my system sometime. I consider it somewhere between medium to medium-high range as far as daily driven cars are concerned. I'd probably call my system "balanced" because it's not an overt bass machine but it can still pound.
For you I recommend:
1. New Deck (Alpine and Clarion are my faves), 6.5" Separates (Inifinity Kappas), a small 80W X 2 Amp to run the fronts...see how you like this setup first because you can upgrade from here. Have the installer put in 4 guage or thicker power wire so you don't have to go back in if you add another amp. The new deck is kind of optional because it will need to have RCA connectors to shoot clean signals to the amp. However you can hook up an amp that has speaker level connections but the sound isn't as great.
2. #1 + Bazooka 8" powered sub...it's easily removable (disconnect the plastic connector and lift out).
3. #1 + something like my sub and amp.
Head
Unit:Alpine 9827 CD/MP3/WMA Deck (I like it because it matches the interior and doesn't do the stupid folding screen thing which breaks)
Buy the head unit that has the features you like such as types of media (CDs, DVDs, MP3 etc.), cosmetics and extras (bass boost, power etc.). I've pretty much gone away from the flipping mechanisms just because of the wear and tear that they take on.
Front Stage:
MB Quart 5.25 Separates (you should DEFINITELY get separates since your car comes stock with them anyways) the tweeters are easy to install (you can use any method like zip ties etc. I made custom metal brackets cuz it was easy. The woofers need "help" in the form of either a pre-fabbed plastic piece from the net or an MDF spacer ring (I bought some off the net but lost the site address).
Most 5.25" separates will fit in our cars. HOWEVER, it's the depth that's the problem! Our stock speakers are pretty shallow because they don't really have the motor/magnet structure to produce great sound. Most aftermarket speakers are much deaper than the stockers because they DO have the bigger magnet etc. to help them perform better. It's pretty easy to get them to fit though.
Also, you do have the option of moving up to 6.5" speakers for more bass but this requires minor modification or a really good pre-fab kit to get it to fit. This may be a route for you if you decide not to pursue a sub...in this case get either the Inifinity Kappa 6.1 separates ($299) or the JL Audio ZR 650-CSi (dunno the price). Both of these can hit to 40hz which is pretty low (your ears can hear sounds down to 20hz)
Rear Fill:
Stock because I fade my music to the fronts...it's a complicated theory behind this.
Sub:
Alpine Type R 12" sub in a pre-fabbed and carpeted box (easy to take out and I didn't wanna mount it permanently yet until I figure out the direction I want to take the car)
Amps:
Kenwood Excelon KAC X301 to the sub (pushing about 800 Watts into 2 ohms)
Pheonix Gold Octane R 2.5:2 to the Fronts...haven't installed yet because I'm lazy (50 Watts into 4 ohms)
When looking at amps you wanna get enough for your needs. In that case don't buy the huge 5,000 watt amp for a medium sized system. Also, you need to get the correct features such as power, crossovers and size to fit your system. Buy an amp that will power your speakers appropriately (if the speakers are rated at 80W RMS then match the amp power rating to it). Also, if your deck doesn't have a built in crossover, you'll want an amp that can filter out any signals that your speakers can't handle. I.e. most subs can handle up to 200 hz (the low frequencies).
You can listen to my system sometime. I consider it somewhere between medium to medium-high range as far as daily driven cars are concerned. I'd probably call my system "balanced" because it's not an overt bass machine but it can still pound.
For you I recommend:
1. New Deck (Alpine and Clarion are my faves), 6.5" Separates (Inifinity Kappas), a small 80W X 2 Amp to run the fronts...see how you like this setup first because you can upgrade from here. Have the installer put in 4 guage or thicker power wire so you don't have to go back in if you add another amp. The new deck is kind of optional because it will need to have RCA connectors to shoot clean signals to the amp. However you can hook up an amp that has speaker level connections but the sound isn't as great.
2. #1 + Bazooka 8" powered sub...it's easily removable (disconnect the plastic connector and lift out).
3. #1 + something like my sub and amp.
Last edited by bpang1; 10-11-2004 at 04:42 PM.
10-11-2004, 04:57 PM
#7
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I have
a few things to add. First, I really like having good rear speakers for fill. I run the front and rear speakers (Eclipse 6.5s) at the same output level. Really makes a big difference. You will have to cut out the rear doors and add "rings" to make the speakers fit. I also ground down the inside of the door panels. I'm running an Eclipse head unit, 8-cd changer, a BD800 Rockford 4-channel amp, and a BD1500 sub amp. Two Eclipse 10" dvcs for subs. Add a 5-farad capacitor and that's my setup. Very clean. As far as 6.5s hitting 40hz, I beg to differ. They may be capable of some output at 40hz, but they'll be so far down db wise that you'll never hear it. Some makers rate subs down to whatever hz, but without telling you -10db or
-15db at whatever hz, it's just a shell game. Also, check response charts on subs. My 10" Eclipse subs have better low end response than the 12" or 15" Eclipse subs. Bigger isn't always better. Sensitivity is also very important unless you have a high-output amp. I used to build speakers and mix audio, so I have a decent audio background. I also have a real-time analyzer/equalizer with a lab-grade microphone and pink noise generator if you really want to get serious.
San
-15db at whatever hz, it's just a shell game. Also, check response charts on subs. My 10" Eclipse subs have better low end response than the 12" or 15" Eclipse subs. Bigger isn't always better. Sensitivity is also very important unless you have a high-output amp. I used to build speakers and mix audio, so I have a decent audio background. I also have a real-time analyzer/equalizer with a lab-grade microphone and pink noise generator if you really want to get serious.
San
10-11-2004, 05:11 PM
#9
if u go with the 6.5 you will have to space it out and grind the inside of the door panel ask me and its too much work...... in a system with subs you will never notice the sound difference between 5.25 or 6.5 just my 2 cents 
10-11-2004, 05:29 PM
#10
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ok thanks 
well I've got a Pioneer DVH-5000MP Head Unit
what about if I use the spacers from innovative automotive www.iaperformance.com ?
I just want clean sound without the high dollar amount... How are infinity's?
well I've got a Pioneer DVH-5000MP Head Unit
what about if I use the spacers from innovative automotive www.iaperformance.com ?
I just want clean sound without the high dollar amount... How are infinity's?
10-11-2004, 05:53 PM
#11
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San...yeah you're right they lose a lot at 40hz but for Infek's uses I think they'd be ok (you and I probably hear music differently from what most people can discern). I like the fact that you talked about "response" I missed that. Also, you and I probably will agree to disagree about the use of rear fill ...not that kind of rear fill you sickos!
Big D...that's also true, that's why I decided against the extra work for the 6.5". Though, I may have done it if I were going the no sub route.
John...Infinity's are pretty tight! I had Kappas in 2 cars and I loved them! Very clear and not bad mid-bass...you can really hear some parts of the songs that normal speakers can't produce as well. You'll be thinking...man, some of these songs sound totally different. I like my MB Quarts (also had them in 2 cars) the best though!
...Image Dynamics is also pretty good but you'd have to find a place around here that has them. I had some in my car in Oregon (Compression Horn Tweeters) and they were super accurate but took up a load of room.
OH YEAH...John, that's the site I used! Sorry I totally forgot!
...not that kind of rear fill you sickos!Big D...that's also true, that's why I decided against the extra work for the 6.5". Though, I may have done it if I were going the no sub route.
John...Infinity's are pretty tight! I had Kappas in 2 cars and I loved them! Very clear and not bad mid-bass...you can really hear some parts of the songs that normal speakers can't produce as well. You'll be thinking...man, some of these songs sound totally different. I like my MB Quarts (also had them in 2 cars) the best though!
...Image Dynamics is also pretty good but you'd have to find a place around here that has them. I had some in my car in Oregon (Compression Horn Tweeters) and they were super accurate but took up a load of room.
OH YEAH...John, that's the site I used! Sorry I totally forgot!
Last edited by bpang1; 10-11-2004 at 05:56 PM.
10-11-2004, 06:16 PM
#13
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i have two 12 inch mtx's in a box, with a mtx 420class d amp, and i bought four speakers 6 1/2 on all four sides! all that i ended up paying $220 bucks!
10-11-2004, 06:23 PM
#14
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John,
MB Quarts kick tails. Infinity is not bad. Focal is the best, but they are too expensive. The spacer should work... I heard good things about them. If you want subs... I recommend JL... they're very good.
MB Quarts kick tails. Infinity is not bad. Focal is the best, but they are too expensive. The spacer should work... I heard good things about them. If you want subs... I recommend JL... they're very good.
10-11-2004, 06:59 PM
#15
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where can I get them locally and how much can I expect to pay.
I do have a single monitor hooked up to my deck... it's the Mattjk screen... I love it!
what's the difference between coaxal and the other type?
On iaperformance they have a couple of different models that they suggest to work with their spacers... what's the difference between these models?
5.25"
QSD 213
RCE 213
PCE 213
6.50"
DSC 216
PCE 216
QSD 216
RCE 216
Jon
I do have a single monitor hooked up to my deck... it's the Mattjk screen... I love it!
what's the difference between coaxal and the other type?
On iaperformance they have a couple of different models that they suggest to work with their spacers... what's the difference between these models?
5.25"
QSD 213
RCE 213
PCE 213
6.50"
DSC 216
PCE 216
QSD 216
RCE 216
Jon
Last edited by iNfEk; 10-11-2004 at 07:10 PM.