Changing wheel (I'm a noob)
#16
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: On da mountain.
Posts: 660
Car Info: STi (cornering, accelerating and braking hard).
When I change wheels for SCCA Solo, the first pass is with the tires just loading the suspension. Once that's done, I lower the car with its full weight on the tires then I torque to the desired torque (usually 76 ft lbs) using a Mac 1/2" drive torque wrench that I've had for years.
Always a star pattern (like on my STi) or cross if it's four lug (like on my Miata).
Always a star pattern (like on my STi) or cross if it's four lug (like on my Miata).
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: On da mountain.
Posts: 660
Car Info: STi (cornering, accelerating and braking hard).
I don't know if it's wrong just to hand tighten, but if the tools are readily available or obtainable, just use the correct tool. It makes life a lot easier.
#19
emphasis on the drive around then re-torque. i changed a wheel on my wifes bimmer and didnt re-torque. about a week later she only had 2 wheel bolts left, her car was wobbling like crazy, and her tire was shredded!
<--Idiot.
<--Idiot.
#20
VIP Member
iTrader: (25)
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Spokane, WA
Posts: 7,925
Car Info: '04 WRX Wagon
Yeah its best to use a torque wrench as much as it is for most other tightening jobs for things that are critical.
A few years ago some kid who's dad bought him a silvia swapped 240 was at auto-x and on the dragstrip area (back when auto-x was still at the track) he lost one of his wheels. Car slammed on its bottom probably damaging a whole mess of stuff (skidding too) and the wheel rolled off into the bushes.
So that was my lesson...torque your lugs.
A few years ago some kid who's dad bought him a silvia swapped 240 was at auto-x and on the dragstrip area (back when auto-x was still at the track) he lost one of his wheels. Car slammed on its bottom probably damaging a whole mess of stuff (skidding too) and the wheel rolled off into the bushes.
So that was my lesson...torque your lugs.
#21
VIP Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: High in the Rockies!... but not too high
Posts: 341
Car Info: 2004 2.5RS pacifica blue with black Tarmacs
Yea torquing your lugs is a good idea. My specs say 58-72 ft/lbs so I torque to 65 ft/lbs figuring it's in the middle of the spectrum and will account for any variations in my torque wrench. I've never had an issue.
Torque wrenches can cost though. If you need one on a budget I recently read (in GRM I think) that the Harbor freight wrench will do the job and is actually pretty accurate. I've noticed a bunch of guys use then at autocrosses too. Just be sure if you do get a torquewrench to "zero it out" after every use. Otherwise the internal spring will stretch and it will be off. It is a precision instrument afterall.
Oh I'm lazy too. Since I change my wheels at least twice a month for autocrossing I zip my lugs on with a cordless drill then just do the final torque with the my torquewrench.
BTW I know a guy that lost a wheel while autocrossing too. I think he just overlooked torquing it. The wheel flew across the course hit a curb and went straight up. I'm fairly sure it's still in low earth orbit.
Torque wrenches can cost though. If you need one on a budget I recently read (in GRM I think) that the Harbor freight wrench will do the job and is actually pretty accurate. I've noticed a bunch of guys use then at autocrosses too. Just be sure if you do get a torquewrench to "zero it out" after every use. Otherwise the internal spring will stretch and it will be off. It is a precision instrument afterall.
Oh I'm lazy too. Since I change my wheels at least twice a month for autocrossing I zip my lugs on with a cordless drill then just do the final torque with the my torquewrench.
BTW I know a guy that lost a wheel while autocrossing too. I think he just overlooked torquing it. The wheel flew across the course hit a curb and went straight up. I'm fairly sure it's still in low earth orbit.
#22
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Kaneohe
Posts: 468
Car Info: Bugeye Wagon - VF39'd
Do the first good snugging with the wheels in the air. That allows everything to move around and line up. Final torque on the ground. Then you don't have to worry about driving around and retorquing. I use 90-100 ft/lbs.
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