mario

iTrader: (7)

Hey pat, i'm gonna be doing a 2.2 swap soon i was wondering if you could help me out w/ any info on stuff i will need. Please respond in this area,

https://www.i-club.com/forums/showth...971#post854971

Thank you,
Mario

gpatmac

iTrader: (3)

Is it a longblock? Did you do any headwork? If not, you'll need a head gasket and some gasket sealant. When/if you have the heads and/or oilpan off, you need to make sure that you get the edges as clean as possible.

You know, you've got the guy who taught me is still right there on the island with you, 18hr Mike.

Is it a turbo'd engine? That's pretty critical. I don't know what the specifics are, but a non FI engine is going to be a higher compression ratio.

Have you upgraded the pistons and rings? If not, the block is very strong, but your weakness would then be the pistons. I don't know much at all about the 2.2, so I don't know what materials they used for the pistons, rods and crank.

Oh yeah, something I didn't do a very good job of (last time AND this time) is to have a good organization system. Prior to taking anything off of your engine, take a picture of it. Then stop and take a moment to either put the bolts back in from where they came from or maybe have a different sealable piece of tupperware or sandwich bag to put the pieces/bolts/nuts into and then label them.

Get an engine hoist and an engine stand. It also wouldn't hurt to get an impact wrench; the manual kind that you hit on the end with a hammer, although you'll find that you'll be able to loosen most everything yourself.

The crank pulley bolt and the cam gear bolts are a fricking bear! Some folks loosen the crank pulley bolt before they pull the engine. There is an ignition fuse in the engine fuse box that will allow you to turn the ignition but the car won't start. Some folks will put a breaker bar on that crank bolt and then turn the key so that the engine turns over. I personally didn't do it that way. I waited until I got the engine on the stand before I tried to take the crank and cam bolts off.

Make sure and get your hands on the manual so that you know loosening and tightening sequences as well as tightening torque specs.

My preference for loosening the cam gear bolts is: USE A 10mm HEX SOCKET ON A LONG BREAKER BAR. SECURE THE CAM ITSELF IN THE MIDDLE OF IT (WHERE IT SAYS EITHER R EX OR R IN) OR WHEREVER THERE ARE FLAT SPOTS ON THE CAM THAT ALLOW YOU TO GRIP IT, THEN MAKE SURE YOUR BUDDY DOESN'T LET THE WRENCH TOUCH THE WALL OF THE HEAD.

See the flat spot?

gpatmac

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, change your timing belt as well as the alt/ac/ps belt.

oldmansan

iTrader: (4)

looked at the 2.2L. Strong block, but I'm not sure how strong the internals are. My other concern is that it's a fully closed deck, which means it may run hot (I know it has oil squirters). My other concern is the cost. If the prices are close, I'd look at the V7 JDM STI 2.0 longblock for two reasons. One, it has forged internals (since we don't have an AWD dyno, it will be more "forgiving" of knock). Two, it has heads and cams almost as large/aggressive as the V8 (and AVCS). Ideally, I'd like the V7 block with V8 heads in Hawaii. If I lived near a competent tuner, the V8 JDM STI 2.0 would be my choice. Lighter pistons allow quicker revs, and the heads are larger/cams are more aggressive. One other aspect to look at is the rev limit. I'd like to raise my rev limit to at least 8500.

San

gpatmac

iTrader: (3)

You're right about the v8 heads/cams, but the v7 heads have small ports.

oldmansan

iTrader: (4)

be wrong, but I believe there are several different V7 heads. I think it depends on the model (Spec C, RA, etc.). I even think that the later model "normal" V7 heads have the larger ports. I can do a search, but it'll cut into my beer guzzling time.

San

oldmansan

iTrader: (4)

here are a few threads. I've got to stop searching as my beer is warming.

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ighlight=heads

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ighlight=heads

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/show...ighlight=heads

San

gpatmac

iTrader: (3)

You are correct sir. v7 RA and Spec C are both large ports. Vanilla v7 STi is small.

keirnna

iTrader: (8)

I am a newbie to this whole thing, but I have read extensivley on the EJ22T block. It is subaru's strongest block. Like San said it has oil squirters, and has a fully clossed deck. It comes stock with forged pistons, but I think the rods are cast. I'll post some more information as soon as I find it again. This block when combined with the WRX DOHC can have something like a 7.5:1 compression ration. Mario, I don't know if you bought a used block or not, but either I would consider having it built. Again I'll post a link when I can find the guys who build EJ22T blocks with fully forged internals. They have lots of experience. All I can say is that if the EJ22T block is good enough for the 22B Impreza that it must be good enough for Mario. I am debating on what to do with my RS. There is a guy in NASIOC/ Legacy Central who has a EJ22T block w/ 1998 RS DOHC who is running 30 PSI of boost daily. His compression ration is either 7.5:1 or 7:1. From everything that I read this is definitly the way to go, and I am sure Mario did his reasearch before getting this. Like I said in the other thread. Mario please let me help you! I am here until April, and I can help you every day if nessisary. Oh by the way incase you missed it at the begining of my post, I am a newbie to all of this. I have read a lot about the EJ22T, but I am in no way claiming to know anywhere near what the rest of you know. I do however want to learn.

oldmansan

iTrader: (4)

I'd prefer to think we're both right. If the compression stats are as keirnna posted, I'd want a significantly higher compression ratio. After all, if you're going to utilize a closed deck block (sturdy), why would you want such a low C/R? I realize the 2.2 block is relatively inexpensive, but you have to look at the total package and total cost associated. Mario, more information please. Give me a call if you want. I have the Performance Friction pads out of my car if you want them for the Feb track day. I personally would spend a bit more for the 2.35 or 2.4 displacement version utilizing the same block.

San

keirnna

iTrader: (8)

San,

Why would you want a high compression? Lower compression ration allows for higher boost w/ less octane and less problems with det. From what I understand under high boost the lower the compression the better.

gpatmac

iTrader: (3)

Higher compression = higher power. Lower compression = less det.

What San is saying is that the sturdiness of the 2.2 equates to insurance which would allow you to have higher compression without having to worry so much about detonation, because your block is more resistant. However, if the pistons are NOT forged, then that becomes a significant Achilles heal for that potentially strong engine; not to mention cast rods.

I'm not saying that I don't believe you when you state that the pistons are forged, it's just that I'd want to take a good hard look at them (both literally and through research) before I'd want to start throwing any boost at them.

Hey Mario, another thing you may want to look at is your fuel delivery. You didn't make any mention as to which turbo you were planning on using or which intake mani/fuel rail/injectors.

keirnna

iTrader: (8)

Here is some more info, I made a mistake. The pistons are cast, but the crank and rods are forged. Oh and stock compression ratio is 8:1, but it is all in the article. The guy on Legacy Central lowered his CR.

http://www.sdsefi.com/air17.html

keirnna

iTrader: (8)

http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=1051

gpatmac

iTrader: (3)

So, I'm saying (much like with my block) that all I have to do is get some forged pistons (on the way) and now we're all set for high boost. I ordered lower compression, but I imagine that I could do with higher.