2005 Solo II Schedule
#16
Originally Posted by Ditchhanger
If you don't make the morning registration session (which is from 7:30a, to 8:30am), you can run in the afternoon heats, but registration is from 11:30am to 12:30pm.
thanks...
rudy
Last edited by de pilipino guy; 11-08-2005 at 07:54 PM.
#19
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From: on da compz...readin' yo blogz
Car Info: "the loud one"
https://www.i-club.com/forums/road-racing-auto-x-51/if-you-havent-read-forumshawaii-yet-attn-solo-ii-drivers-107506/
tips to help you get better times...
tips to help you get better times...
#20
VIP Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,990
From: on da compz...readin' yo blogz
Car Info: "the loud one"
Andy Hollis’ Top 10 SOLO driving tips
Andy Hollis is a former SOLO National Champion and 3-time ProSolo class champion.
1. POSITION FIRST, THEN SPEED. Positioning the car perfectly is more important than trying to attain the highest potential speed. For example, you will drop more time by correctly positioning the car nearer to slalom cones than you will by adding 1 or 2 MPH in speed. Also, position is a prerequisite for speed. If you are not in the correct place, you will not be able to go faster.
2. TURN EARLIER…AND LESS. To go faster, the arc you are running must be bigger. A bigger arc requires less steering. To make a bigger arc that is centered in the same place the arc must start sooner (turn earlier).
3. BRAKE EARLIER…AND LESS. Waiting until the last possible second approaching a turn and then dropping the anchor at precisely the correct place so that the desired entry speed is reached exactly as you come to the turn-in point is quite difficult to execute consistently. It’s better to start braking a little earlier to give some margin for error. And by braking less, you can either add or subtract braking effort as you close in on the turn-in point. This will make you consistent and smooth
4. LIFT EARLY INSTEAD OF BRAKING LATER. When you need to reduce speed only a moderate amount, try an early lift of the throttle instead of a later push of the brake. This is less upsetting in the car, it’s easier to do and thus more consistent, allowing for more precise placement entering the maneuver (remember No.1).
5. IT’S EASIER TO ADD SPEED IN A TURN THAN TO GET RID OF IT. If you are under the limit, a slight push of the right foot will get you more speed with no additional side effects. On the other hand, if you are too fast and the tires have begun slipping, you can only reduce the throttle and wait until the tires turn enough of that exes energy into smoke and heat. Don’t use your tires as brakes!
6. USE YOUR RIGHT FOOT TO MODULATE CAR POSITION IN CONSTANT RADIUS TURNS, NOT THE STEERING WHEEL. In a steady-state turn, once you have established the correct steering input to maintain that arc, lifting the throttle slightly will let the car tuck in closer to the inside cones. Conversely, slightly increasing the throttle will push the car out a bit farther to avoid inside cones. It is much easier to make small corrections in position with slight variations in the tires’ slip angle (that’s what you are doing with the throttle) than with the steering wheel.
7. UNWIND THE WHEEL AND THEN ADD POWER. If the car is using all of the tires tractive capacity to corner there is none left for additional acceleration. At corner exit, as you unwind the wheel, you make some available. If you do not unwind the wheel, when you start to accelerate, the tire will start to slide and the car will push out (see No. 6)
8. ATTACK THE BACK. For slaloms (also applicable to most offsets), getting close to the cones is critical for quick times (see No.1). To get close, we must move the car less, which means bigger arcs. Because the car doesn’t start changing direction until the wheels cross the center and because the reaction times involved, your brain must make the decision to begin turning the steering wheel back the other way just before the previous cone! Since this is a mental issue, a good visualization technique is to think about trying to run over the backside of each slalom cone with the inside of the rear tire. To hit it with the rear tire (and not the front), the car must be arcing well before the cone and the arc must be shallow. Attack the back!
9. HANDS FOLLOW THE EYES, CAR FOLLOWS THE HANDS. ‘Nuf said.
10. SCAN AHEAD. DON’T STARE. Keep the eyes moving -- looking ahead does not mean staring ahead. Your eyes must be constantly moving forward (and sometimes left/right). Glance forward, glance back. Your brain can only operate on the information you give it.
DON’T FORGET THE STUFF IN BETWEEN THE MARKED MANUVERS! Too often we think of a course as a series of discrete maneuvers. There is typically more to be gained or lost in the areas that are in between. Pay special attention to the places where there are no cones.
Andy Hollis is a former SOLO National Champion and 3-time ProSolo class champion.
1. POSITION FIRST, THEN SPEED. Positioning the car perfectly is more important than trying to attain the highest potential speed. For example, you will drop more time by correctly positioning the car nearer to slalom cones than you will by adding 1 or 2 MPH in speed. Also, position is a prerequisite for speed. If you are not in the correct place, you will not be able to go faster.
2. TURN EARLIER…AND LESS. To go faster, the arc you are running must be bigger. A bigger arc requires less steering. To make a bigger arc that is centered in the same place the arc must start sooner (turn earlier).
3. BRAKE EARLIER…AND LESS. Waiting until the last possible second approaching a turn and then dropping the anchor at precisely the correct place so that the desired entry speed is reached exactly as you come to the turn-in point is quite difficult to execute consistently. It’s better to start braking a little earlier to give some margin for error. And by braking less, you can either add or subtract braking effort as you close in on the turn-in point. This will make you consistent and smooth
4. LIFT EARLY INSTEAD OF BRAKING LATER. When you need to reduce speed only a moderate amount, try an early lift of the throttle instead of a later push of the brake. This is less upsetting in the car, it’s easier to do and thus more consistent, allowing for more precise placement entering the maneuver (remember No.1).
5. IT’S EASIER TO ADD SPEED IN A TURN THAN TO GET RID OF IT. If you are under the limit, a slight push of the right foot will get you more speed with no additional side effects. On the other hand, if you are too fast and the tires have begun slipping, you can only reduce the throttle and wait until the tires turn enough of that exes energy into smoke and heat. Don’t use your tires as brakes!
6. USE YOUR RIGHT FOOT TO MODULATE CAR POSITION IN CONSTANT RADIUS TURNS, NOT THE STEERING WHEEL. In a steady-state turn, once you have established the correct steering input to maintain that arc, lifting the throttle slightly will let the car tuck in closer to the inside cones. Conversely, slightly increasing the throttle will push the car out a bit farther to avoid inside cones. It is much easier to make small corrections in position with slight variations in the tires’ slip angle (that’s what you are doing with the throttle) than with the steering wheel.
7. UNWIND THE WHEEL AND THEN ADD POWER. If the car is using all of the tires tractive capacity to corner there is none left for additional acceleration. At corner exit, as you unwind the wheel, you make some available. If you do not unwind the wheel, when you start to accelerate, the tire will start to slide and the car will push out (see No. 6)
8. ATTACK THE BACK. For slaloms (also applicable to most offsets), getting close to the cones is critical for quick times (see No.1). To get close, we must move the car less, which means bigger arcs. Because the car doesn’t start changing direction until the wheels cross the center and because the reaction times involved, your brain must make the decision to begin turning the steering wheel back the other way just before the previous cone! Since this is a mental issue, a good visualization technique is to think about trying to run over the backside of each slalom cone with the inside of the rear tire. To hit it with the rear tire (and not the front), the car must be arcing well before the cone and the arc must be shallow. Attack the back!
9. HANDS FOLLOW THE EYES, CAR FOLLOWS THE HANDS. ‘Nuf said.
10. SCAN AHEAD. DON’T STARE. Keep the eyes moving -- looking ahead does not mean staring ahead. Your eyes must be constantly moving forward (and sometimes left/right). Glance forward, glance back. Your brain can only operate on the information you give it.
DON’T FORGET THE STUFF IN BETWEEN THE MARKED MANUVERS! Too often we think of a course as a series of discrete maneuvers. There is typically more to be gained or lost in the areas that are in between. Pay special attention to the places where there are no cones.
#22
Troll
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 3,526
From: ***10 SEC CLUB*** 10.8@128mph w/clutch issues
Car Info: 04 STI--- 435awhp@Pump Gas **520awhp @ C16 Vp
Originally Posted by Mystic_88
Good thing I don't race.. cause I really can't anyways..
When ever you decide to try and race let us know...you wont regret it...especially autoX...did it 1 time and I cant wait for next month..lol
#23
VIP Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 4,990
From: on da compz...readin' yo blogz
Car Info: "the loud one"
TEST n TUNE OCTOBER 22nd!!!!
check website for more info....
www.sccahawaii.org
http://www.sccahawaii.org/testtune.html
check website for more info....
www.sccahawaii.org
http://www.sccahawaii.org/testtune.html
#24
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iTrader: (38)
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 6,196
From: Rockin my 6th Suby in the 808 in the past decade!
Car Info: 01 Impreza RSTi, 08 Evo MR, and 13 XV
Originally Posted by .:: 808 STi ::.
TEST n TUNE OCTOBER 22nd!!!!
check website for more info....
www.sccahawaii.org
http://www.sccahawaii.org/testtune.html
check website for more info....
www.sccahawaii.org
http://www.sccahawaii.org/testtune.html
i should be home for this!!
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