dealers and some people say not to use synthetic in subie motors...the dealer only recommends motul if you're going synthetic.

they say you will burn about a quart every few thousand miles..

 

I use total 5-30. Came recommended by my tuner who has his oil tested and it was recommended to him by the anylizer who tests all kinds of oil and said it performed the best. Never had any problems with it.

 

before this thread goes into another what he said or she said i'll say this. Every car is different with different driving habits, different driving conditions and different batches of the production.

Read this
http://www.synlube.com/synthetic.htm <--good article and talks about mobil 1 products and what is IN their current product. Yes I read the entire page...

I wouldn't go with that product due to the simple reason that your car has normal blow-by and other conditions such as leaks also you need to put in additional oil at 23 bucks a quart. An average oil change ranges from free to XXX amount of dollars

your best bet is to do a simple engine oil analysis from http://www.blackstone-labs.com/?gcli...FSd****d33e10g

There you have it...

Crafty Slug
Member ID:78984654984

 

I use regular mobil oil and also mobil syn oil back and fourth, many times! Sometimes I rather buy a pack of cigs rather than shell our for syn so I use mobil conventional oil. Sometimes I feel like my car deserves syn so I buy that.

 

another subie owner said that amsoil is pretty good aside from RP and castrol.

 

Different grades of synthetics...

Group III: Mobil 1 EP - Dino oil that goes through hydrolysis <===sp? Hydrocracked/Hydroisomerized = API Group III base oils. Chevron, Shell, and other petrochemical companies developed processes involving catalytic conversion of feed stocks under pressure in the presence of hydrogen into high quality mineral lubricating oil. In 2005 production of GTL (Gas-to-liquid) Group III base stocks began. Even though they are considered a synthetic product they are still mineral base stocks and counted as the mineral part of all semi-synthetic lubricants. Group III base stocks [with certain amount of mixture of PAOs and esters and Group V] are considered synthetic motor oil ONLY in the United States.[citation needed] Group III based lubricants are not allowed to be marketed as "synthetic" in any market outside of the USA.

Group IV: AmsOil - Fully synthetic from its base or Polyalphaolefin (PAO) = American Petroleum Institute (API) Group IV base oil

Group V: RP - the most expensive to produce...Synthetic esters, etc = API Group V base oils (non-PAO synthetics, including diesters, polyolesters, alklylated napthlenes, alkyklated benzenes, polyglycols etc.)

I use Ams 5W-40 Euro.

 

Oil formulations and brands are damn near religion or politics for serious drivers; ask even a simple question and you're going to get a fight/debate/flame war...

I use Castrol Syntec 5W-30 (10W-30 in the summer); the dealership recommended it back in 2002 and when I asked why, the head tech (a grizzled Scotsman in his 60s) said "I have two Porsche 911 turbos, one from 1976 and one from 1982, and Syntec is all I run in them, and I take the motors apart completely once a year -- they look perfect." For those who don't know, the 1974 Porsche turbo was one of the first production sports cars to use a turbocharger, and they are NOTORIOUS oil-burners and really tough engines to keep in trim. They are also a boxer configuration, similar to the Subaru boxer series.

Personally I think the key is to change the oil consistently, using the same brand every time, and paying close attention to how it looks coming out. You also need to change your oil based on your use and wear, rather than just following the 3 months/3600 miles recommendation. If you drive it really hard, change it really often. Subaru recommends changing the oil twice in a single day, if you run a track day at speeds over 100mph - that's from Drive magazine. They said in the article to change it the night before the event, run it, and then change it again after you get home.

Anyone have experience with Eneos/Enos? Japanese-made full synthetic, used in F1 cars?

 

Well if its good enough for Porsche to win LeMans...

 

Not a great example, considering that those engines are totally rebuilt/tossed out in under 3000 miles :-)

 

I'm using M1 Synthetic, and it works fine. Oil is oil. Just use a good filter.

 

speaking of filters, is it true that the blue OEM filters are made from fram parts since honeywell makes it?

 

i'm running mobil1 too...... i'll let you know when my engine dies. or maybe i'll change my oil before it dies

 

Nasioc has the answer. But what I remember from reading thread years ago, the paper media is not synthetic and therefore could be compared to Fram, but only for the filter media. Still has an anti drainback and solid construction.

Do you really need better filter media if your changing every 3500 anyway? But, if your under warranty and the engine blows up, plus you have been doing your own oil changes...to honor the warranty the service writer will ask for all the receipts for those at home oil changes. SOA does not like deviations from 5W-30 and Subie filters. Speaking from experience.

 

I would recommend using different synthetic oils throughout the year. Mobil1 sometimes, maybe Castrol, Lucas, Royal Purple, Valvoline, at other times. This way you will avoid the same type of engine wear all year round. Each synthetic oil will allow different advantages and disadvantages. I would say the same is true for different filters, sometimes Subaru, sometimes Fram, K+N, whatever you like.