Oil Warning light flickers momentarily + CEL
11-13-2006, 10:38 AM
#1
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Rough idle when cold + CEL P0304
Update...
New stock plugs and wires... CEL went away after 2 starts but came back this morning.
I get rough idle when cold then CEL would follow. If I rev and hold at 1.5k until the car warms up, I get no CEL. HELP!
See recent post with pics...
https://www.i-club.com/forums/engine-power-non-turbo-all-non-turbo-imprezas-61/oil-warning-light-flickers-momentarily-cel-150145/#post1719684
New stock plugs and wires... CEL went away after 2 starts but came back this morning.
I get rough idle when cold then CEL would follow. If I rev and hold at 1.5k until the car warms up, I get no CEL. HELP!
See recent post with pics...
https://www.i-club.com/forums/engine-power-non-turbo-all-non-turbo-imprezas-61/oil-warning-light-flickers-momentarily-cel-150145/#post1719684
Last edited by DetailAddict; 01-04-2007 at 09:30 AM.
11-13-2006, 11:25 AM
#3
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Gagan,
I did oil change like 2k ago. Also, where the heck do I pick up those iridium plugs? Plug wires should run me about $50 or so right? Thanks!
Leo
I did oil change like 2k ago. Also, where the heck do I pick up those iridium plugs? Plug wires should run me about $50 or so right? Thanks!
Leo
Originally Posted by joltdudeuc
Sorry man. To me, I was the passenger and Gilbert who was driving it was out of no where.
outside the car people heard the motor knocking with rod knock. but heard nothing at all. It felt perfect until it blew out.
You need to change your oil and filter on your motor. Do that first no matter what.
Change to those iridium plugs. Its a small investment to save a car if it works.
on our cars, the coil packs go bad real easy and so do teh plug wires. replacing those with OEM is the way to go.
-Gagan
outside the car people heard the motor knocking with rod knock. but heard nothing at all. It felt perfect until it blew out.
You need to change your oil and filter on your motor. Do that first no matter what.
Change to those iridium plugs. Its a small investment to save a car if it works.
on our cars, the coil packs go bad real easy and so do teh plug wires. replacing those with OEM is the way to go.
-Gagan
11-13-2006, 11:48 AM
#4
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will these plug wires do?
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...e=5004&ptset=A
I was looking at SubaruParts.com and they run for $100!!
http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=470#2011
Man, if it's just plugs ane wire, that would be nice and cheap and I can do those myself. But if it's the pump, it's going to cost me...
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...e=5004&ptset=A
I was looking at SubaruParts.com and they run for $100!!
http://www.subaruparts.com/catalog/?section=470#2011
Man, if it's just plugs ane wire, that would be nice and cheap and I can do those myself. But if it's the pump, it's going to cost me...
11-13-2006, 08:44 PM
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okay, so previously I had the P0304 for the misfire. now I have the P1445 Air assist injector solenoid valve malfunction. I went to my mechanic and he looked up the bulletin for me. he said it could have been caused by the fuel filter. If it's really the air assist injector solenoid valve, I should have stalled immediately prior to the CEL. But that didn't happen.
Then my dump *** just realized that I am at 120k! Sht, I even have it in my excel record log indicating that I should have done the fuel filter along with bunch of other stuff. And I only did the oil change 2k ago.
So I went and got myself some air filter and fuel filter and it seems to be driving smoother now. I have to do some other fluids as well, but that can wait until the weekend. Lets hope that was it.
Then my dump *** just realized that I am at 120k! Sht, I even have it in my excel record log indicating that I should have done the fuel filter along with bunch of other stuff. And I only did the oil change 2k ago.
So I went and got myself some air filter and fuel filter and it seems to be driving smoother now. I have to do some other fluids as well, but that can wait until the weekend. Lets hope that was it.
11-20-2006, 07:04 AM
#6
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Car Info: 1996 impreza 60 trim, 8psi 201 whp, 213 tq 200k mi
GET THOSE BOSCH OUT OF THERE!...no subarus like bosch plugs!, get NGK bkr6e-11, they are the reccomended plug. so many cars come into my dealer with misfire codes...99% of the times are because of the plugs!
11-20-2006, 08:25 AM
#7
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Really? I read somewhere in the club that bosch plugs are okay. What about those Iridium plugs Gagan was talking about? i've never used or heard of those before until Gagan mentioned them.
Thanks for the info. BTW, I have a 00RS, NA car, if that means anything to the plugs.
Leo
Thanks for the info. BTW, I have a 00RS, NA car, if that means anything to the plugs.
Leo
Originally Posted by AWDimprezaL
GET THOSE BOSCH OUT OF THERE!...no subarus like bosch plugs!, get NGK bkr6e-11, they are the reccomended plug. so many cars come into my dealer with misfire codes...99% of the times are because of the plugs!
11-20-2006, 08:32 AM
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since kragen has bkr6e-11 as well. I am going to get some through them and see if they are willing to take the bosch back. 
they've been pretty good taking back stuff that didn't work for my car... i hope they do it again... especially they were the one said bosch was okay...
they've been pretty good taking back stuff that didn't work for my car... i hope they do it again... especially they were the one said bosch was okay...
Last edited by DetailAddict; 11-20-2006 at 10:51 AM.
11-30-2006, 05:46 PM
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okay, the light came back on... help!
I don't think it's the plugs because it's on the same cylinder again. and shouldn't be the coil pack, otherwise it should be random.
I am thinking plug wire or injector. Can I swap out the plug wire with another cylinder? That way, if the code follows, then I know. I also got the diagnostic stuff to checkout the injector and all wiring as well. we'll see...
Also, I get rough idle (misfire?) when cold and that's when I get the CEL P0304. Idle is smooth again once I warm the car up. Any clue? Thanks!
I don't think it's the plugs because it's on the same cylinder again. and shouldn't be the coil pack, otherwise it should be random.
I am thinking plug wire or injector. Can I swap out the plug wire with another cylinder? That way, if the code follows, then I know. I also got the diagnostic stuff to checkout the injector and all wiring as well. we'll see...
Also, I get rough idle (misfire?) when cold and that's when I get the CEL P0304. Idle is smooth again once I warm the car up. Any clue? Thanks!
01-04-2007, 09:27 AM
#11
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Here are some pics of the broken plug wire boot and the connector that came off of it. Also them Bosch plugs that have been in there for about a month...
CEL went away after 2 start after I install the stock plugs and wires. Then this morning I was getting rough idle again and also the CEL!
HELP!
CEL went away after 2 start after I install the stock plugs and wires. Then this morning I was getting rough idle again and also the CEL!
HELP!
01-04-2007, 02:17 PM
#12
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okay, went in and got the code pulled... it's P0304 again...
now suspecting the idle air control solenoid valve or the air assist injector solenoid valve or the coil pack.
I got this cool little device that plugs between the coil pack and the wire from my mechanic. He showed me how it looks like on my car when normal. So now i have to wait until the car cools down again, which hopefully by the time I leave work. If the light blinks slower, not at all, or inconsistant, that means my coil pack is bad. If it's normal, that means we are looking at something else.
now suspecting the idle air control solenoid valve or the air assist injector solenoid valve or the coil pack.
I got this cool little device that plugs between the coil pack and the wire from my mechanic. He showed me how it looks like on my car when normal. So now i have to wait until the car cools down again, which hopefully by the time I leave work. If the light blinks slower, not at all, or inconsistant, that means my coil pack is bad. If it's normal, that means we are looking at something else.
01-04-2007, 10:56 PM
#13
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tested the ignition coils with the tester and it looks good. returned the tester and picked up a compression gauge. i'll be testing out the compression tomorrow morning when it's nice and cold.
spec:
156-185 psi
7 psi or less between cylinders
spec:
156-185 psi
7 psi or less between cylinders
Last edited by DetailAddict; 01-04-2007 at 11:09 PM.
01-05-2007, 02:51 PM
#15
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I think the Idle Air Control Solenoid Valve is okay. Other wise I should get low RPM when I first start cold or constant high (1.5k) RPM even at warm idle.
Next to check is the Air Assist Injector Solenoid Valve. If I continue to get rough idle, I think I'll try to by pass the Air Assist Injector Solenoid Valve and see. But the thing is, if that thing is bad, I should see RPM fluctuate and not smooth...
Any ideas?
Next to check is the Air Assist Injector Solenoid Valve. If I continue to get rough idle, I think I'll try to by pass the Air Assist Injector Solenoid Valve and see. But the thing is, if that thing is bad, I should see RPM fluctuate and not smooth...
Any ideas?
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