cobb street performer cams
06-01-2003, 07:07 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: maryland
Posts: 49
Car Info: 99 2.5 rs
cobb street performer cams
alright im highly interested in buying these cams, but i was wondering if thats getting put in should i may as well do the valve springs and retainers.. and what would be a good company to order these springs and retainers....
yup, thanx, oh yeah 99 RS
yup, thanx, oh yeah 99 RS
06-01-2003, 11:10 PM
#2
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 18,369
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
You need to go straight to Cobb I think. www.cobbtuning.com
06-01-2003, 11:47 PM
#3
Guest
Posts: n/a
it all depends on if you want to spend the money and like to sit close to the redline. there's no real power up there so there's no need to be there.
it takes quite a bit of work (and money) to NEED valves and springs. just consider how far you're going to go with that engine. are you really going to stick with the stock motor or plan to swap in the future? are you going to add enough hp to have it worthwhile to raise the redline? (and IIRC, the street cams dont have the profile for a higher redline and thats why they don't include the valves and/or springs in the stage 1 setup)
stock springs and valves should hold up to 7k but, dont test that theory. i imagine that they can withstand bouncing off it since it's uncommon but, not impossible for somebody to miss 4th and hit 2nd at WOT.
this is my .02 take it anyway you like
it takes quite a bit of work (and money) to NEED valves and springs. just consider how far you're going to go with that engine. are you really going to stick with the stock motor or plan to swap in the future? are you going to add enough hp to have it worthwhile to raise the redline? (and IIRC, the street cams dont have the profile for a higher redline and thats why they don't include the valves and/or springs in the stage 1 setup)
stock springs and valves should hold up to 7k but, dont test that theory. i imagine that they can withstand bouncing off it since it's uncommon but, not impossible for somebody to miss 4th and hit 2nd at WOT.
this is my .02 take it anyway you like
06-02-2003, 03:05 AM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: maryland
Posts: 49
Car Info: 99 2.5 rs
yeah i guess ill just get the cams and possibly do the springs some other time, cause i dont have that kind of money to buy that **** all at once, the cams and gettin them installed is enough, i found a sube dealership that will do it for 420$$$$, but i guess thats resonable. just when it comes time to start rebuilding things ill do that spring job cause it still has farly low mileage on it.
06-02-2003, 03:34 PM
#7
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 18,369
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Yeah I was hoping to find some older EJ series cams when I was planning on doing them, but couldn't find any. And buying a short block, evenblown, isn't really cheaper than loaning Cobb the core charge. The good part would be having the stock cams around to sell or keep around 'just in case.'
06-12-2003, 09:22 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Glen Rock, PA
Posts: 527
Car Info: 95 Impreza coup, green, 5speed 1.8l awd
http://www.paeco.com/
just looking around for cams too and these people must specialize in automotive machining
but I dont know how good they are or much about them, they are cheap though compared to cobb or TWE
Im going to have my cams ground to my specs from them(with spring and retainers) but I dont know what I want
intake .500" exhaust .450" 220 degrees
but im just guessing maybe less duration because of increased lift
just looking around for cams too and these people must specialize in automotive machining
but I dont know how good they are or much about them, they are cheap though compared to cobb or TWE
Im going to have my cams ground to my specs from them(with spring and retainers) but I dont know what I want
intake .500" exhaust .450" 220 degrees
but im just guessing maybe less duration because of increased lift
06-12-2003, 10:17 PM
#10
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 18,369
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
More duration for NA, less for turbo. More or less. More lift is generally good for performance, as long as the lobes don't get so steep your valves go ballistic. (literally, meaning the valve stem loses contact with the cam lobe)
06-13-2003, 09:50 AM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Glen Rock, PA
Posts: 527
Car Info: 95 Impreza coup, green, 5speed 1.8l awd
do you think that my lift is too high?
but my duration is about as far is I want to go because I want my car to stay idealing when it is cold
(my brother mustang comes to mind but must have alot more than 220maybe it was 230-240 but he couldnt keep it running when cold)
but my duration is about as far is I want to go because I want my car to stay idealing when it is cold
(my brother mustang comes to mind but must have alot more than 220maybe it was 230-240 but he couldnt keep it running when cold)
06-13-2003, 02:24 PM
#12
Registered User
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Reno, NV
Posts: 18,369
Car Info: 1993/2000/2001 GF4 mostly red
Cams are kind of a hit-and-miss deal. You might be real close to the best grind for what you want, but it seems there is always room for improvement. If you only get one shot, I wouldn't stray too far from the spec of another cam with characteristics you like.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
s.g.d
Used Aftermarket Car Parts For Sale
0
04-08-2006 11:49 AM
Sundance45
Engine/Power - non turbo (All non turbo Imprezas)
2
09-08-2003 07:18 PM
Imprezfan1
Engine/Power - non turbo (All non turbo Imprezas)
36
01-25-2003 06:07 PM
