SR20steve

iTrader: (2)

The Coolingmist CMGS was on the doorstep today when I got home from work (thanks Dave at Coolingmist very fast shipping:tup, and it was like x-mas . It was already getting late but I had to get some work in installing the new system. I figured I would at least get the plumbing done on the tank and to the pump.

Here is all the parts straight from the box with the pump, the CMGS controller, the wiring and boost and water line.


I was very lucky that everything that needed to be hooked up for the Perrin PW1 plumbing wise was EXACTLY the same on the Coolingmist system, from the 1/8th NPT tap on the I/C for the spray nozzle.....

to the water tubing fittings that go from the tank to the pump and the pump to the check valve fittings.

The fittings on the pump and check valve needed to be installed, and I threw some teflon tape on the fittings to make sure they wont leak.


When I talked to Dave he said the pump and check valve needs to be at or below the lowest point of the tank to function properly, so using my water spray tank this mounting configuration was the most logical to me. It seems like the trunk cardboard will get in the way, but I think I can "persuade" it to fit. If anyone has some better idea's I am open to them. I didn't permanently mount the pump yet just for that reason. And the spare tire must stay, lol.


Its already dark, so the wiring part will have to wait. I do need to figure out a good 12v source. Anyone got any ideas?

Steve

SR20steve

iTrader: (2)

Alright, I was exited to get home and get the project started with the W/I system (there is a reason we all do this, we really enjoying toying with things, lol). First on the list was solder and heat shrink the + and - from the pump to the controller so I could start making a mess and stringing the water hose and wiring through the cabin. Everything went well, my iron was being super slow to heat up. When I did get it heated up it took forever to heat the joint enough to get the solder to puddle from the other side. Once I had the wires twisted together ready to solder and realized I didn't slide the heat shrink on (damn beers).



Here the wires are finally coming into behind the dash. I bought a autometer 3 gauge glovebox cluster to put my gauges in for stealth status. If I go to a track day I can just pop the glove box open and viola! I have the important gauges facing me. Im thinking about fabbing a bracket to make sure the glove box stays open during hard turns and acceleration.


Car in shambles...


Here is a good view of the gauge cluster. I have the AEM wideband, the EGT gauge, and the Boost/WI controller in the spots. Here is a few more pics.



Here is the engine prior to connecting the positive side of the WI.


Here is how I decided to route it. I was seriously thinking about doing 1/4" 316 SS tubing and hard piping it all the way to the pump with compression fittings but me and a few buddies talked it over and thought that SS would be a horrible insulator and probably cook the methanol in the lines sitting over a hot motor unless it was insulated. But it would look heeeeellla awesome .


Pic of the dog for ****s and giggles...

LOL_VTEC

iTrader: (23)

Whaaaaaa can't wait to see it on Sunday!

SR20steve

iTrader: (2)

I can't wait till I cant tune it for some meth! Its been a longtime coming.

slvrsti

iTrader: (7)

sweet set up. where did you find the glovebox/gauge cluster set up?

04caliwrx

iTrader: (6)

Looks sexy Steve!! As I have told you I will also be getting a new toy soon!

LOL_VTEC

iTrader: (23)

I belive fastwrx.com has them

SR20steve

iTrader: (2)

I got mine from VR speed I believe. But if you do a google search of "wrx autometer glovebox gauge" it will pop up a few different companies who sell it. Its around $60 shipped.

SR20steve

iTrader: (2)

Alright time for the final chapter of my Coolingmist CMGS install. I finished it this morning. I've been working 6 days a week so my one day off I try and get as much done as possible. I decided to hard pipe the meth injection from the firewall forward with 1/4" 316 stanless steel. The nylon tubing that ran right over the turbo was already looking pretty frail, and being installed for a coupe of weeks you could only imagine how it would look in a few months. And it being used for fueling, I didn't want to take a chance. I have to have my header coated by Crucial so Im also gonna have the piece of tubing coated as well to keep the heat out.

Here is what the nylon tubing looked like from just a couple weeks


Here is some pics of the tubing.




Here are some pics of the total install. There are no wires or hose exposed for a nice clean stealth look.




I had the nozzle rigged to where I could see the spray pattern while I drove, and it seems that the best atomization is from 50%-100% pump duty cycle so thats what Im gonna get tuned with. At low duty cycle (25%) the spray pattern was pretty weak.

Well tell me what you think! -Steve

SR20steve

iTrader: (2)

Oh BTW, FYI the Diagram that coolingmist supplied for tubing the pump is backwards. I had the system hooked up and I couldn't get anything to spray. I had 12v's at the pump so I knew it wasn't the wiring so I trouble shot the tubing all the way to the check valve and when I grounded the pump to fire it the discharge side of the pump was sucking! So this diagram is backwards.


The suction is on the right side of the pump and the discharge is on the left.

meilers

NICE work, very clean! Good radiused bends on the hard pipe; is there an internal diameter change from the nylon tube or the tube from the tank? That might cause slightly lower pressure.

Good choice on all the APS gear, I run pure APS/Whiteline in my 02, its a JDM/Aussie machine and none of the APS gear has ever failed me.

Let us know the tuning numbers ASAP, very curious about this upgrade now that the price has begun to drop. It seems like an excellent alternative to going FMIC/93 octane.

RLLYRCR

iTrader: (6)

Are you worried at all with the movement of the engine that it might put stress on your stainless line coming from the firewall. I know that the motor moves quite a bit and especially the top mount.

mystilexzero

iTrader: (6)

what he said, might want to look into group n mounts and a stiffer pitch mount, to keep my intercooler pipes from rubbing and couplers getting loose i did that and never had a problem since

SR20steve

iTrader: (2)

The internal diameter of the 1/4" tubing (1/4" is OD) is almost indentical to the nylon tubing thats why I went with 1/4". I checked to make sure that the nozzle was spraying just as it was before, and it is.

SR20steve

iTrader: (2)

Where the tubing fitting comes through the firewall its on a rubber grommet that can move pretty freely. The only reall attached point of the SS tubing is the nozzle. And if you ever felt how flimsy 1/4" tubing is you wouldn't be concerened its pretty easily bended by hand.

And mystilexzero- I already have Group N motor mounts and tranny mount and pitch stop.