Engine/Power - EJ25T (STI and 2006+ WRX) Discussions about the USDM 2006+ WRX and WRX STi 2.5 liter turbo flat-four.

$6000 spent in repairs and car still dies, PLEASE ALL HELP WITH INSIGHT

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Old 09-07-2006, 07:18 AM
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Exclamation $6000 spent in repairs and car still dies, PLEASE ALL HELP WITH INSIGHT

2002 WRX

Modifications:2.5 Shortblock, Mahle pistons, HKS GT2540r turbo, super megaflow intake, hks downpipe, uppipe, turboXS UTEC, sti v.7 TMIC, walbro fuel pump, STi pink injectors. 16psi, turbo XS manual boost controller.

Last year I had just a regular ej20 block and got a HKS GT2540r turbo kit installed with the above mods tuned by godspeed with a UTEC. After about two months I began to stall when the engine warmed up after 10 minutes of driving. At first I found that the 02 sensor on the intake was loose so I tightened that and voila, problem gone. However another month went by and the stalling came back. I got the car checked out by a shop and it was recommended that I have a compression test done. Compression test revealed that cylinder 2 was down to 97 (this is the cylinder on the driver's side closest to the headlight). All others are at 150.

Mechanic is thinking either burnt or bent valve. Ok so then I decided to upgrade to a 2.5 block with Mahle pistons. While everything was done I got the heads re-done as well and it was revealed that there was no bent or burnt valve. Put everything back together...

Still stalling after 10 mins of warm up. When cold it doesn't stall.

So in the last 2 days the following has been done to the car:

Replaced the gasket and cleaned the IAC. Also found that my intake was put on using the wrong thread sized screw thread size and the MAF was never fully tightened down so the right screw is now in. Now I have assumed that the MAF would have made a huge problem for idle. Got all of that fixed, Replace the IAC, MAF, MAP and went for a drive. It still dies like I didn’t fix anything. Vacumn is good according to the gauge, it seems though that the ECU seeing the wrong MAP voltage. It seems like it cannot be a mechanical problem as all the mechanical items are new. It is possible it is a bad sensor and there is no code. Unlikely, but possible.

Please help as I have spent over $6000 in repairs this year already. Anythoughts would be appreciated.
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Old 09-07-2006, 09:58 AM
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Do you know a subaru tech? If you don't you may ahve to pay for diagnostics, but the subaru based diag computer could help alot. I work at a nissan dealership and our consult II is more than just a code reader. It tells me the output of all major sensors in real time (tps, maf, etc). Also, isn't there some sort of crank or cam positioning sensor on these cars? If the sensor is bad, it may only act up when its hot. When it dies, does it start right back up? Do you have to let it cool down to restart it? If so, have you checked to see if you have spark or fuel when it is trying to crank? Are you able to catch it with the throttle when its trying to die? Could be a bad tps.

I would really try to get your hands on suabrus diag computer. Knowing what a/f ratio is, what the sensors are reading, and what it says throttle input is could definitely help out.
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