testes1010

wrong, you can mechanically 'fix' the wastegate arm to be semi-permenantly closed OR if you're going to run a HKS DP w/ an EWG you can run a bolt thru the flat-flange of the HKS DP into the wastegate flapper. I have done both as well as many others.

MO REX

iTrader: (2)

Wow, that contradicts everything I've ever read. According to what I've read the TD04-13T starts blowing hot air @ 17psi. When you say it's efficient are you also adding alcohol injection and/or a bigger IC or are you saying it's efficient with just a tune.

I have no experience with tuning and I know you do but that statement is waaay off from everything I've ever read.

Please explain how you tune for 20+ psi.

Thanks

testes1010

I definitely recommend a bigger TMIC to run over 20PSI. No alky needed, but you could w/ the stock TMIC & it'd be similar results to a larger TMIC + the octane advantage.

here is the compressor map for our actual compressor (TD04L-13T), disregard the TD04H in the title. The 13T is the compressor, this is a compressor map.



As you can see the center island(76% efficiency) peaks up over 2.6BAR(absolute), so 1.6 bar(gauge) or 23psi(gauge). You can run 20+psi in midrange only tapering at redline.

Here's the original thread, here

MO REX

iTrader: (2)

Sweet, thanks for the link. I'll have to do some reading and data dump all of the misinformation I've gathered over the years.

cbf246

i said to weld it cause, like you pointed out, the internal wastegate will still be partially functional/open. to fully take advantage of the ewg, itd be best to weld it. but im not saying you couldnt do it the ways you described.

Superglue WRX

Not necessarily missinformation. It's just that most people didn't realize that the TD04 could push more boost and flow at lower RPMs. It will have to taper back down to 17psi before redline though.

meilers

Please, please, don't take that map as a sign that you can crank your manual boost controller to 20 PSI with no drawbacks. That 20PSI is NOT what is measured by your boost gauge; that is pre-manifold pressure, not taking into account intercooler pressure drop. 20 PSI at the turbo is 17.6 PSI post-intercooler at the manifold, assuming the pressure drop of the stock or STI intercooler. Also, you need to severely retard spark timing, watch for lean conditions and sharply taper boost (the COBB 91 octane map tapers to 13psi at 6600, and that is considered one of the best off-the-shelf tunes out there). I wouldn't run a boost target of 16.7 PSI or greater at 5500 RPM without a full ECU tune (ECUtek, UTEC, etc.) with full control of MAF, timing and injector duty cycle tracking. An EBC or MBC at 20 PSI would be detonation city. Also, that little turbine is going very, very fast at 20 PSI and might just blow an oil seal and go kaboom. I've certainly seen it happen.

it is not a miracle turbo. It is a tiny piece of junk with a totally strangled hotside. You can get much, much more power in low and mid and top with a much SAFER TUNE (less injector duty, more timing advance, lower EGTs, lower PSI) with a VF34 or TD05. You can't squeeze blood out of a turnip.

MO REX

iTrader: (2)

I'll admit I don't know a lot about tuning. I went with a Cobb stage 2 and spent all my time researching suspension related topics since that is more important to me but with a proper tune you can run 20 psi. In the past I was under the impression the 13t would blow hot air @ 17ish psi.

IMO the 13t is not a "piece of junk". The WRX was not designed to be a drag car.
I take my car to the local track (road course) and the 13t has held up for 103k and helped me get 285 HP to the flywheel on a 2.0. I'm not disagreeing with allot of your points, I just think calling the 13t a "piece of junk" is a bit much.

BTW, the "piece of junk" 13t has also propelled my 2.0 4 cylinder car in front of every modified mustang it has come up against. Not too shabby.

MO REX

iTrader: (2)

I consider it misinformation. Most misinformation comes from people not having all the needed information.

meilers

NO NO NO! You are not listening or reading the source thread for that compressor map. It does NOT say you can run 20 PSI boost, as measured by your boost gauge. It says that the INTERNAL PRESSURE of the turbo itself is 76% efficient at 20 PSI. The pressure where your gauge measures the boost is different (1.5 to 2.5 PSI LOWER) post-intercooler. Running 20 PSI by your boost gauge might be as much as 24 PSI internally in the turbo, creating monster backpressure that will indeed cause serious hotside efficiency problems, lubrication problems and much more. PLEASE go to the NASOIC thread and read at least seven pages of it, this detail is mentioned over and over again and illustrated by many charts, graphs and equasions.

MO REX

iTrader: (2)

I think you are the one that is having problems with reading comprehension. Please look at my posts and tell me where I said anything about the efficiency at 20 psi. I said that the 13t can be pushed to 20 psi at the boost gauge with a proper tune. If you disagree with that you need to take some time and look at post 136 by ride5000 and you will see what I'm talking about.

How much time have you spent logging and tuning a 13t?

BTW, you aren't telling me anything I didn't already know.

meilers

??

Which one is the case? I've read Ride5000s post, and it does have many caveats, cautions and other reasons why running a small turbo at its max shaft speed and your injectors past 80% duty cycle is a bad idea. I've logged and tuned my own 02 WRX, as well as watched it dyno-tuned by a professional shop. It is my opinion (and the tuners) as well as the opinion of many others on that thread that at 20PSI or above you are pushing the TD04 well above its safety margins. You are also up against the ability of the stock fuel system, the stock air intake system and the hotside efficiency. Running the stock injectors at 96% duty cycle (almost locked open) is an incredibly bad idea. People have blown up the EJ20 and the TD04 at stock boost; you don't need 20 PSI to toast it. I think that it is certainly possible to have a stable, speedy and healthy EJ20/TDO4 at 20 PSI, but only with a larger intercooler, good ambient temps, totally clean injectors, good gas and lots of careful tuning, plus some good luck. I don't see ANYTHING in that thread or other similar discussions that contradicts this hypothesis. I think that the time, effort and trouble that goes into getting the TD04T13 stable at 20 PSI would be better spent on just dropping in a used VF39, suffering no spool penalties, and being able to run your injectors below 80%, your EGTs below 1700 and not having to run an external wastegate or weld the stocker.

MO REX

iTrader: (2)

You're an annoying little bugger aren't ya?

I see no contradiction admitting I don't know a lot about tuning and saying that you haven't told me anything I didn't already know. I guess you think it takes a tuning genius to know that my boost gauge readings aren't taken from the compressor outlet and that timing and fuel needs to be adjusted when you up the boost. Wait a minute, I just might be a tuning expert like you and I never knew it.

Now wait a minute.... Is it possible or isn't it all knowing one? All I ever said was that it is possible to run 20 psi with a good tune like ride5000 and others have done in the past. I never said it was a perfect turbo to run 20 psi and last forever.

I'M NOT SAYING ALL YOUR POINTS ARE WRONG!!!!! I'll admit you have more experience tuning but I blow you away when it comes to reading comprehension. If you read my post 5-10 times before you respond you might just avoid looking like an idiot. If you feel the need to show your infinite wisdom just tell me how you need to adjust timing and fuel if you want to up the boost again. I could use another good laugh.

Keep up the good work all knowing one.

BTW, don't forget to read this post a few more times before responding.

gtfaded

yea, i also got tha borla hush, put it on your list.