i have 1200 mi on my car and its about time for that 3 months oil change. will anything bad happen if i switch to syntheitc oil now?

 

Nothing but loving warm feelings from your turbo. Mobile 1 Synthetic 5w30 or 10w30 depending on your climate. And remember, even though its synthetic, the more often you change the more loving warm feelings you get from your turbo.

jason

 

I prefer Castrol Syntec personally. I have done a lot of research and talked to a bunch of mechanics and they agree. I live in a really warm climate and use Syntec 5W50. If you live where you dont have to worry about the cold, supra_man, I would recommend the same thing. I just think 5W30 is a little too thin...Great valve train protection in the cold though. Just my opinion...

Castrol Syntec

All About Oil

Why Choose Synthetic?

 

Nothing better than Amsoil..... Though I would give it some more break in miles.... Just my opinion.

 

mobil 1 is the only FULL SYNTHETIC on the market at the moment.
a law past by the government said that as long as an oil is 70 percent or more synthetic, it can be classed as a full synthetic. Most companies take advantage of this, but mobil 1 is the only FULL SYNTHETIC by the means of 100 percent synthetic.
i say go w/ mobil 1.

 

Redline is also fully synthetic, but I use Mobil 1 myself.

 

i use redline and love it

 

Mobil 1 is NOT the ONLY FULLY synthetic oil. Please do not spread false information....

The only companies taking adavantage are companies like Mobil...

 

i am not trying to sell mobil1 to you or something. i am talking from a lot of experience, and research.
castrol syntec is NOT a 100 percent synthetic, and neither are most brands readily available.
i did forget about red line, and thanx for clearing that up BAN SUVS, but all i was trying to say in the first place is, watch what your buying, a lot of companies are selling full synthetics, that are NOT, and i dont agree w/ this. go w/ a know 100 percent full synth, and you will be happy.

 

thanks for the info i was a royal purple fan but after i heard what they do to your valves in the long run i think im going to go with mobile 1.

 

I use Redline 10W40, and I love it.

Fully synthetic, car runs great.

Wait until 7-8k miles, then change it.

 

so what happens if i switch to syn now that i only have 1500 mi?

 

The following is from another thread I posted on:

These are the replies I got from SOA and Redline when I asked the same question. I'm now running Mobil 1 with and switched around 2700 miles. Redline P/S fluid and gear oil for the rear and tranny be will installed next weekend.

SOA: Thanks for visiting the Subaru Web site and for support of Subaru products. As indicated in your Owner's Manual, the suggested break-in period for your Impreza RS is the first 1000 miles. Our recommendations include:

- not racing the engine
- driving at moderate speeds while accelerating and braking smoothly.
- not driving at one constant engine or vehicle speed for a long time, either fast or slow
- avoiding starting suddenly and rapid acceleration, except in an emergency
- avoiding hard braking, except in an emergency

Following these recommendations will add to the performance and long life of your vehicle. It enables all of the cars fluids and mechanisms to slowly get into an operation mode.

I hope that this information is helpful. Thanks for your support!

Dawn Rainear
Subaru of America, Inc.-----------------------------------------------------------

Redline: We recommend waiting for the rings to seat in a new engine before installing the Red Line oil, this will easily happen and the high initial wear will take place by 1500 to 2000 miles. The gear oil can be changed over at any point, I would allow the high initial wear to occur before installing the Red Line 75W90NS in the transaxle and the 75W90 in the rear differential.


Regards, Dave
Red Line Oil

Also I would avoid Castrol Syntec, it has to many additives and the 5W50 has too many polymers (tiny spirals of plastic in the oil that extend as the oil gets hotter to give it better shear. Oils with alot of polymers also require alot of detergents in the oil to get it off the inside of your engine. Detergents do not lubricate. That yellow-brown gak you see inside an older engine are polymers that have bonded to internal parts. This can lead to sticking valves and rings among other bad things.) oddly enough though their mineral base oil seems to be one of the best. Go figure.

The best synth oils out there in my opinion are Redline, but it is very expensive at about $8 a quart, hard for me to get and not really worth the advantage if your not racing. I've heard Motul makes an excellent product, but haven't aquired enough info to verify it. It also runs at around $7 or $8 a quart. Amsoil and M1 are very close and there advantages swing back and forth depending on the weight you choose. In 10w30 or 5W30 I think M1 is has the advantage for the fact it doesn't have any added polymers to stabilize the oil which tells me it may be made from a better base then the Amsoil at that weight. I prefer the 5W30 weight over the 10W30 all year round because I like how the 5W gets around the engine a little quicker at startup and since both weights are rated at 30 once the engine reaches operating temp. the oils should have the same viscosity. Anyway I use M1 it's a great oil, easy to get and reasonably priced. I get it at Wal-mart for $18.88 in the 5 quart jug. I put the M1 in at 2700 miles and the car is running great. By the way you still are required to change the oil every 3000 to keep the warranty people happy. If you do it yourself you may want to keep a log.

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/oil-overview.html This site among others had some good info on the subject. I guess I could've said just use M1, but I think facts are always better then opinions. Now don't even get me started on oil filters.

-Sal